20 Most Recent 1990 Mazda 626 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

not quite sure which box it's in, but relay is Usually in the power relay box on top of the drivers side front fender well. else it's mounted to the regular fuse box inside the car.

brake: high on drivers side firewall, pic at "http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280039d30" cylinder between #'s 2 and 4. clear to light purple liquid (do NOT get on the paint job!) it will melt paint!

clutch: near the brake reservoir above and between #'s 3 and 4 at: "http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280039b4a" usually clear to pale yellow fluid.

power steering: front of vehicle usually on drivers side pic at: "http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280039c45" follow # 8 toward front of engine. usually medium red color fluid.

mine was the shift adjuster cable. seems it broke off into the transmission, and other problems were found. cost me alot of money to fix. got it fixed in july havent had any other problems with it since. hopefully.

sounds like a clogged radiator

wat is the problem

If the water is pumping out of the overflow pipe either something is pressurizing the coolant system(cracked head or blown head gasket) or you have a very bad pressure cap. I have seen a bad pressure cap cause all kinds of problems.

Check rear light bulbs.

It's part of the shifter assembly

Some fixya user told me a website reliable- store it is very good.. I used it to repair my shredder it had some spark issue which wasn't easily fixed. you can go there and try

I am not sure where the switch is located ... but I had generic trunk lid light issues on an older car. It turned out NOT to be a switch issue ... but a wiring issue. The trunk had been opened enough times over the years that the covered/taped wire bundle that goes from the body to the trunk had flexed too many times and right around the hinge area several wires had broken. The problem was found by doing a number of continuity checks on the wiring after I had frustratingly looked at all switches and light bulbs!!

Diagnostic Trouble Codes OBD1
Mazda 02 Crank Position Sensor (NE Signal). 03 Cam Position Sensor (SGC Signal). 05 Knock Sensor. 08 Air Flow Sensor. 09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 10 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (Air Flow Sensor). 12 Throttle Position Sensor. 14 Barometric Absolute Press. Sensor. 15
and/or
23 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Inactivation). 16 EGR Function Sensor. 25 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve. 26 Purge Control Solenoid Valve. 28 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Valve. 29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve. 34 Idle Air Control Valve. 41 VRIS 1 Solenoid Valve. 46 VRIS 2 Solenoid Valve.

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what's the rpm for that car maybe 1000 rpm. you are going to need another person to help you. when normal temperature adjust your tps your computer is not reading the factory rpm and make sure you don't an air leak.

The Autodata fuel injection manual provides those figures for the engine management temp. sensor and I think I have seen them in the Haynes repair manual. The temp. gauge sensor values I have never seen because it is generally accepted the electrical temp. gauge isn't a gauge but an indicator and therefore doesn't need to be accurate. If you had the correct figures it is a bit of a faff suspending the sensor and an accurate thermometer in cold water and heating it slowly and monitoring the temperature and resistance. Mostly a replacement sensor is so inexpensive it isn't worth the effort. Ford used to supply different sensors so the gauge (indicator) could be calibrated more closely - so it was around halfway at normal working temperature, but Ford seemed to be the only one that needed calibrating... In the case of incorrect reading that isn't corrected by a replacement sensor, the supply voltage to the gauge should be checked to ensure it is being regulated accurately to the correct voltage - I know of only two standard voltages (10 volts and 5 volts) but there might be others.

do an online search for common problems and read reviews