20 Most Recent 1984 Mazda RX-7 Questions & Answers

Stuck floats, incorrect needle valves, dirt in needle valve

Afraid you have shorted out the harness. The only fix is to replace it. Repair or replace the dash has to come out of the car.

www.edmonds.com they carry owners manuals online and should have one for your car as well

the engine must be torn down to repair the cooling passage seals, there is no way other than that to fix this, while u are in there might as well overhaul the engine.

Check all fuses and fusible links, hopefully just they blew and nothing fried. Also, you will probably need a new stereo.

maybe your fuel pump went bad or the filter is clogged. i'd say go ahead and check your fuel pump

It will definitely fit and function. The 84 carb has a couple of extra emissions bits but that can be sorted out no problem.

problem like this on garden tractor ,was weak coil ,-when engine at low manifold pressure[idle] spark could jump gap and fire cylinder ,higher pressure /under load-wouldn't fire...check color of spark -orange,yellow ,white spark=weak, blue spark is stronge,

Well mazda rotory engines run alot hotter exhaust temps.so if it has the wrong exhaust on it it might not be breathing correctly and then it will not run properly.

Checked grounds? remove all connectors and clean them. Make sure you have 12V coming from the ignition switch to the solenoid. Does the motor turn over by hand?

Trailing plugs - Top Leading plugs - Lower the correct plugs are NGK and have a 'T' or 'L' in blue on them RE9B Trailing RE7C leading Having them mixed would not keep the engine from starting. Recommend you have the compression checked. If it was starting and running fine before, then you could have disconnected something. Check fuses.

You can't buy it, they only sell to factory authorized repair stations.

What are the HC and CO readings? if it is not that far out, tell your tech to richen it up an 1/8 turn at a time. The factory starting point for the mixture screw should be 2 1/2 to 3 out from closed can go as much as 3 1/2. As long as the throttle plate setting has not been played with. If that is the case it will take a bit more to setup properly.

If your tach does not work that is a symptom. Of course a timing light is most useful. If not you can coil wires (swap with known good wire) ; check ignitor,(swap trail/lead ignitor plugs at distributor) coil, check with ohm meter. Trailing ignitors are very common failures, especially when either jump starting or being jump started when a battery is stone dead. What happens is there can be a huge power spike through the ignition system damaging the electronics in the ignitor. 90% of trailing ignitor failures happen during a jump start procedure. At this age though, wires and coils can be suspect. My recommendation for ignition parts, Mazda Mitsubishi Cap/rotor and NGK wires and plugs. They are good enough for Mazda factory race teams and I have been using them since 72 with no ignition related failures in racing or all the street vehicles that have been maintained. Most critical is the fit of the rotor, it should be very hard to install, very tight fit. If loose the rotors have a tendency to rotate and move causing changes in timing and at worse damaging the cap and rotor.

You need an induction timing light hooked to # 1 leading plug wire.Start the engine and watch the white timing mark,there also should b a yellow one.Line the flash up with the white mark by loosening the distributer bolt and turn it slowly till they line up.lock the bolt and your done.The engine has to be running at idol speed and warmed up to temp to do this.

The engine is most likely flooded. I worked at a mazda dealer a long time ago and the best way to fix it is to remove all 4 plugs and wind it over Not touching the throttle at all.Take an oil squirt can filled with engine oil and put a couple squirts in one spark plug hole of the leading and one plug hole of the trailing.Again turn the engine over about 10 seconds without the plugs in. Wait 20 mins and reinstall the plugs (all 4) then try starting as you would normally. IF this dosent work,,get ur buddy to hook a ROPE to the front of it and tow it.Once you reach about 30 mph with the transmittion in 4th gear let the clutch out (with the ignition switch on so lights r on on the dash) . Let ur buddy tow it a bit like that without touching the gas at all and it should start.IF it dosent,,keep on towing but play with the throttle and it will soon start to run on its own.These engines are the worst thing I ever seen to get going after their flooded.Thats if that really is the problem.Not too much goes wrong with them so Im betting this will work.

Are both meters connected to the same spot?

Maybe fuel pressure is too high, did your put in a bigger pump to keep up with that big old bridge port? If so, it may need regulated! I have a holley FPR on my stock port set to 2.5psi it has really helped it run smoothly. Hope that helps!

The 84 RX7 has a hub/ rotor assembly. Pull the front wheels, take off the calipers, remove the grease cap from the rotor, take out the cotter pin, take off the nut, pull the hub/rotor off. It may be difficult but pry the old bearings out, there is an outer and an inner, the inner has a seal on it. Clean out the space where there old bearings were, and press in the new ones, this will also be difficult. Make sure to use a method that puts even pressure on the bearings; I like to use a screwdriver that will fit through the hole in the bearing but the handel will catch, then I tap on the back of the screwdriver until the bearing seats in place. Be sure to pack the bearings with plenty of grease, you will make a mess. Then installation is just reverse of removal. When you put the hub nut back on, tighten it down, then back it off just a tiny bit so that it lets the bearing spin but doesn't have any play. As always, double check all of your lug nuts when your put your wheels back on. Hope this helps!