20 Most Recent 1983 Mazda RX-7 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

with great difficulty ,its a dirty hard backbreaking job ,now is it front wheel drive or rear wheel drive

Check your fuel pipes , fuel pump, the needle & seat in the carburetor

sir, maybe you should change you engine oil

Instrument Panel and Pad REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If so equipped, unfasten the inside hood release handle.
3. Remove the steering wheel and the lower steering column cover.
4. Remove the glove box, switch panel and console. Fig. 1: Loosen the retaining nut to unfasten the inside hood release handle
   Fig. 2: If necessary, remove the dash mounted speaker covers to access hidden instrument panel bolts
   Fig. 3: Due to space limitations, some bolts are best removed with an open end or box wrench
   Fig. 4: Other bolts are easily removed with a socket
   
   
5. Remove the meter (gauge) hood, heater control panel mounting screws and separate the heater controls from the instrument panel frame. Remove the combination meter.
6. Remove the air duct(s) and the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Allow the column to lower.
7. Disconnect and label the meter wiring. Unfasten the mounting bolts and remove the crash pad and instrument panel. Fig. 5: Some of the instrument panel attaching bolts are hidden behind removable trim covers or plugs. Carefully pry off the cover . . .
   Fig. 6: . . . then remove the bolts with a socket
   Fig. 7: The glove box must be removed to unfasten some of the instrument panel retaining bolts
   Fig. 8: Other retaining bolts are accessible with the meter hood and combination meter removed
   To install:
   
8. Position and fasten the crash pad and instrument panel, being careful to route the wiring correctly. Attach the meter wiring to its appropriate connections.
9. Raise the steering column to its normal operating position and install the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Connect the air ducts.
10. Install the combination meter. Install the heater controls into the instrument panel frame with the mounting screws. Attach the meter hood.
11. Install the console, switch panel and glove box.
12. Install the steering wheel column cover and steering wheel.
13. If applicable, attach the inside hood release handle.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.

You are not getting fuel to the engine. Have a fuel pressure test run to see if you are getting fuel which I suspect is your problem. Have you replaced the fuel filter which may be clogged? The fuel pump may have failed. The carburetor may be clogged. It can be many things. You work by eliminating possible causes.

i have a customer with one of these about this age with points and carbs so if its the same as this one then any competent mechanic should be able to sort it out with his eyes shut ,i dont think the main engine compartment wiring loom has more than ten wires in it .

Replace the the spark plugs and wires. That sounds like a faulty plug wire(s). **Please rate me on this answer**

i think you may have fitted the friction plate on backwards...did you find connecting the bell housing tight also ??should just slip on with no resistance at all.

Your carberater is having problems getting the correct amount of fuel.Either a line or fuel filter is clogged or you need to have your carb. rebuilt.

try removing air filter and spaying CARB CLEANER in carb while holding open intake rub thouroughly with hand in side carb, start vehicle and run... spray more cleane and by hand throttle open and spray reinstall filte and runner good on open stretch of highway.
see how that works

Sorry for the delay. I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.

The 1983 Mazda RX7 has a Rotary Engine.
For the 1.1L
Firng Order:
1-2 (thats all folks!)
Cylinders:
__________
|......2.......|
|......1.......|
....[FAN]

Distributor:
.............(+)-screw
......2
1..........2
......1
(+)-screw

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

Sounds like carb idle air or fuel jets are clogged.. Test pressure with a gauge to be sure. Float level and drop needs to be exact.. Operation of the whole carb relies on this. Probably why you are not getting any change in your air/fuel adjustments.

sounds like you blew a fuse under the hood

There are a handful of fusible links on that year vehicle. A repair manual will give you a wiring diagram that should show what's not working with a "blown" link. From there, you can use a "loom diagram," which should also be in the repair manual, to locate the offending wire and replace it-- You don't need to replace with with another fusible link, but you do need to put a fuse that's rated with the same amp. value as the link should have been.

these cars are carburated motors and need around 10 minutes to warm up because they operate at higher temperatures.

same dyno? same operator? theres something wrong. the lower altitude the better, as far as I know. But someone thats smarter than me and has high altitude /dyno experience would be better to answer the question.

unhook battery cable. there are only 2 bolts holding the starter in. you will need 14mm wrench and 14mm and/ or 17mm sockets, I think 1 bolt will have a nut on the end as it goes through. after that the start will hang and the wires are easily taken off.