20 Most Recent 1994 GMC Sierra - Page 3 Questions & Answers

GMC loves to eat fuel pumps for breakfast. They burn up and short out all the time... Especially with older models like yours... Check fuses and relays... Make sure it's wired right... If that don't work... Take the pump out and install an in-line fuel pump. If that's not for you... You can try a direct 12 volt connection to the in tank pump and put an on/off switch in the cab... But don't forget to turn it off every time you shut off the engine... I did that with my old S15. Good luck.

Try to put your question in English . NOT GIBBERISH

Hello,

There's in usually two ways to remove a car door. Either the hinges bolt to the frame of the car, OR they bolt to the inside of the door. In some cases they are welded in place, but that's pretty rare. If you can open the door, look in the door jam snd you should see the bolts. If you don't, try removing the interior door panel and look on the inside of the door (towards the front) and you should see them there. I'm sure the window frame will have to be in the "up" position. Good luck.

Check the earth wire if it is insulated., give it an extra layer of insulation tape.

It depends what you consider high voltage. It could just seem high because it was too low with a bad alternator. What voltage is it running at?

broken frame ?

on the back of the engine by the distributor, it about the size of a pill bottle

That truck did not use a vacuum actuator, it used an electric motor motor. If your transfer case is engaging and you can see the front drive line spinning, then you either have a bad actuator, switch, or the wiring is bad. I would recommend unplugging your actuator and checking for power at the wire while someone puts the truck in four wheel drive. If there is power going to it, then replace your actuator. if not, follow your wiring back and check all components. They also sell an aftermarket cable actuator for those trucks which are much more reliable.

Bulbs or fuses are the first place to start. The next thing I would move onto would be the wiring harness. Clean out the coupler connections and make sure they are seated properly when you put them back. If you use a meter you can tell if you are getting 12 volts through the harness itself.

Battery going dead ?? INSPECT BATTERY ELECTROLYTE LEVEL INSPECT BATTERY CABLES/TERMINALS LOAD TEST BATTERY,_______VOLTS @ 150 AMPS (Min SPEC 10.2 VOLTS @ 150 AMPS.) INSPECT BELT(s), TEST ALTERNATOR OUTPUT,_____AMPS @ 12 VOLTS @ 2500 RPM (SPEC ______ AMPS.] TEST FOR DRAW,______(MAX ALLOWABLE 350 Ma), If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

Stuck fuel injector(s) ?? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

left side Under dash near brake pedal.and is call flasher unit,

It's in the fuse box under the hood...also check the relay while you are at it.

Do you have a specific question with details & test results ? You know vehicles have to be tested to find problems

I've had this happen before too. I replaced my starter and everything is good now.

Sending unit is more than likely bad.

usually around 30 low side running with compressor on, will usually go around 100 plus without engine running , you can jump terminals on the low pressure switch on the accumulator , but if you have any negative pressure reading like if it pulls into a vaccum on compressor start up , then you have a orfice tube blockage and high side will go around 3 to 500deg