Might be a weak battery.
Check the battery like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.
If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
Check that the battery cable plus post, goes to the starter, Minus post to a good ground, like the engine.
If wiring is ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection.
Problem is most likely the Solenoid or starting relay, whichever the car uses.
Hope this helps.
Sounds like the Torque Converter Solenoid. You need to get a fault code reader on this before you make a sound decision. Torque Converter Solenoid is one thing, a Torque Converter is quite another ($$$)!
O/D is the Overdrive: this is not from me... I have retrieved this from a Ford specialty post:
"There are only two ways to get this code. This code can only be set during a scan test and can not be set when the engine is running. The first way to set it is if the person running the test fails to press the O/D switch at the appropriate test point. The second way is if the O/D was pressed at the correct test point but the switch is no good, or there's a break in the circuit.
If you're driving and press the O/D switch and the tranny drops out of O/D ;then that means the switch and circuit are good and the technician screwed up the test." It would seem that if the switch fails, replace the switch.
there is most likely (a) a faulty spark plug boot you must check by bending and squeezing the boots even a small hairline crack will let the + voltage escape to - (b) if all boots are good and no evidence of antifreeze or oil in the spark plug chamber and the spark plugs good check the coil housing for a crack at the top where the plug goes in and the coil plug wires all the way back to the computer any cracks in the coil plug/coil or fuel injector plug will cause it also you must really check the wires some mechanics have a bad practice of popping holes in the wire to do voltage /circuit checks but once air gets to the copper it oxidizes and rots the wire look for pale green powder coming out of the wire for any wires associated with the #3 cylinder you see when the truck idles the voltage is trying to get through but can't make the jump, but when the rpm's are raised and the voltage is then being sent at a higher consistent value the voltage is able to arc over the break in the wire until the gap becomes to big then you'll feel the misfire constantly////// one other thing do you put dielectric grease on your plug boots if you do there's to much and it's leaking down the plug jumping to ground you don't have to use this but if you do just a tiny bit on a q tip is enough but I shy away from using this stuff because if your engine temp goes up this stuff melts and turns into mineral oil which is what it's made of and thus jumps the voltage from the plug + to the engine block - in th photos here you will check the coil towers for cracks
at this plug it's common for cracks in it ^
bend and flex these and also look inside the coil contact for corrosion green oxidation pull out the spring and check the copper contact if the boot feels mushy it could have a pin hole in it
do the same here check for any cracks or burns in the wire insulation anything on these will cause the misfire even the slightest burn will leak voltage you can wrap electrical tape around suspected areas and test for the condition I don't know what size motor you have or what kind of ignition system ? so here's all the stuff
I have to send another post to much data/photos
IF YOU FILLED THE TANK WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING THE GAUGE WILL NOT RESET FOR A WHILE BUT WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE ENGINE & RESTART IT SHOULD GO UP TO FULL AGAIN IF NOT YOUR FLOAT IN THE TANK MAY BE LETTING IN GAS WEIGHING IT DOWN SO IT WON'T RISE UP /// OR THE FUEL SENDER CONTACTS ARE VERY DIRTY OR A WIRE HAS COME OFF
A hissing sound when depressing the brake pedal is an indication that the booster is leaking. Another indication is that the pedal will be more difficult to push down before starting the car after it has been sitting for a while. A faulty brake booster will only make it more difficult to apply the brakes. However, it should be noted that a leak in the booster may be caused by brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder into the booster and this could become a dangerous problem.
sounds like not enough water in the reservoir, check WHEN COLD, that it is between min and max levels. DO NOT OPEN WHEN HOT, YOU MAY SCALD YOURSELF SEVERELY!
check your ac clutch.
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Did this suddenly start on it's own or after some repairs? Sounds like it's somehow getting power through the neutral safely switch, very odd. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7
1. Drain the engine cooling system.
2. Remove the air cleaner intake pipe.
3. Release the clamp and disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
4. Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing.
o To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) .
5. Remove the thermostat and the O-ring seal.
o Discard the O-ring seal.
6. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
o Install a new O-ring seal and lubricate it with clean coolant
7. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
It could be a fuel pressure issue or the mass air flow sensor. Most fords have a fitting on the fuel rail that looks like a tire valve. You can us a tire guage to check it there. Be careful and do this as quick as you can so as not to loose to much fuel. It could cause a fire if it hits the exhaust. Cover you eyes with safety glasses or a face shield. The pressure should be above 30 psi. If the fuel pressure is good, then check the mass air flow sensor, It is located near the air filter box on the air tubing going to the throttle body. It will have a wire plugged into it. At and idle, unplug the wire, if the engine stops the MAF is good, if the engine still runs, the MAF is bad. I am old school and have learn these by trial and error. I hope this helps you find you issue. Good Luck
Your description isn't very comprehensive but I think what you are saying is your brakes are being applied progressively as you drive until they finally lock on altogether?I have experienced this condition a number of times before and it was relatively common before the days of computers and robots.I have known one occasion when a faulty vacuum servo gave similar symptoms and that usually very reliable component was made faulty by a leaking brake master cylinder that had over a long period, half filled the brake booster with fluid.In all other cases the auto-application of the brakes as they are used is due to the fluid expanding as it warms due to use and is unable to escape back into the brake reservoir and so increasingly applies the brakes.This can be verified easily as the brakes will be hot and momentarily slackening a couple of pipes from the master cylinder or a couple of bleed nipples will immediately free the brakes.Although there are a few theoretical possible causes for this it is usually (and exclusively in my personal experience) due to bad maintenance or repair in the vehicle's recent history.Replacement of the brake booster and/or the brake master cylinder without ensuring all the correct clearance and adjustment checks are made is the prime culprit. The second favourite is the person who adjusts the brake pedal linkage to obtain a firmer pedal feel with less free travel.There is one more thing I can think of that can provide similar symptoms but that applies exclusively to drum brakes and is where the bonding of the lining material is failing causing the brake to self-apply.
here's what to look for if its the 2.0 4 cylinder engine this is it
if its the 3.0 this is it
drain the cooling system at the radiator you will see a petcock drain valve it could look like whale tail or a tee with tube coming out of the bottom or a plastic nut with the tube on the bottom on the lower right passenger side loosen which ever one and use a big enough sized pan or container that is stiff not to flexible and able to hold a least 2 gallons of antifreeze because you need to get as much out as you can to drop the level of fluid inside the motor so when you take off the housing antifreeze will not be pouring all over the place and put a rag underneath it to catch any dripping out so you don't have a mess and if any does spill on the floor clean it up and flush it with water this is highly poisonous and will kill any animal instantly so if you want your pet dog/cat to still meet you when you come home be very careful also for the squirrels and other animals roaming at night use rags to soak up any after and before water don't let this go into the sewer system either if you get caught doing this the police can give you a summons and so can the E P A you can get 2 up to $5,000.00 each this is not a joke either so be as careful and out of sight as possible in case you do have a spill/ in the photo's you see the housings the thermostat the o ring gasket the way you see the thermostat facing is the way it goes back in arrow head facing out towards the front you can use additional sealer on the flat surface of the housing just a small line around the housing will be enough for extra sealing and put it back together and tighten each bolt a little bit at a time to make sure they are all seated properly and then final tighten till you feel the bolts grab/snug then turn each one a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn more/ DO NOT CRANK THESE BOLTS YOU JUST HAVE TO GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH THEY ARE IN PLASTIC HOUSINGS AND YOU WILL PULL OUT THE FITTINGS THEN YOU'LL BE GOING TO HELL WITH OUT A HAND BASKET SO JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN SNUG WILL DO IT/ now make sure the valve on the radiator is closed before you add antifreeze taking out the nut or valve and putting an anti seize grease or other grease on the threads will help for the next time so it will come loose easier and tighten easier again /DO NOT TIGHTEN THIS TO HIGH HEAVEN FOLLOW THE SAME THING SAID BEFORE TILL ITS SNUG AGAINST THE RADIATOR WILL DO/PUT YOUR ANTIFREEZE BACK IN IF ITS CLEAN AND HAS NO DIRT LEAVES OR ANYTHING FLOATING IN IT/ IF ITS OLD AND COULD USE THE CHANGE DO IT NOW AND DRAIN IT ALL OUT FOR NEW FLUID REPLACEMENT THIS GETS DONE BY PUTTING IT IN THE BOTTLE ON THE SIDE OF THE RADIATOR THE TOP SAYS USE COOLANT ONLY ON TOP OR SOMETHING TO THAT AFFECT/after you replace the coolant and the car is running add more as needed and check for leaks there should be none if you followed what was written here then once you can get the coolant level around the cold fill mark on the bottle your done put the top back on some click some just get really tight and go for a ride and celebrate and be proud of what you did and learned during this procedure YEAH! YOU DID IT HOORAY FOR YOU! the next day check the level air in the system will be out and the level may have gone down bring it back to the level full cold mark and remember all your fluids expand when they get hot (motor oil /transmission/power steering/antifreeze)and must only be filled to this mark or the recommended amount from the manufacturer next any old antifreeze and any other fluids you have in the future must go to the gas station that has a repair facility or any auto shop that does repairs they will take it from you for disposal. I WROTE THIS THREAD FOR YOU AND ANYBODY ELSE WHO COMES ACROSS IT TO USE THE INFORMATION SO YOU COULD HELP YOURSELF AND LEARN TO DO THINGS GOOD LUCK TO ALL OF YOU STEPHEN
does the gear shift lever that you change gears with seem loose and has a lot of movement up and down until you can get it to the shifting point or is the lever snug and normal tight feeling to it either way a think your neutral safety/range selector switch maybe broken inside this switch will stop the car from being started in any gear except neutral or park for safety reasons and this could be what is happening here normally I think the box should go around any gear you have selected P/R/N/D etc. to show you what gear your in and for overdrive purposes , but it's showing up around 2 selections at one time and the car won't start this is telling me inside that the switch has somehow become broken and this part of it is reading the wrong position then once you move it around a few times it locates itself in the right place and the car starts get a new neutral safety / range selector switch hers what it looks like its on the transmission
the center part with the 2 notches fits on the transmission and don't have a fit when you first put it in and the truck doesn't start this has to be adjusted by someone under the car while you try to start the car your original one maybe can be adjusted but I think it's n/g because it's showing 2 positions at the same time depending on where you buy it the cost will be for aftermarket $20.-$45 for an automatic transmission $65- $85 for a manual one the dealer will be over $100-$150 I hope this helps and please post back with progress or results and please rate me positively good luck stephen
at this plug it's common for cracks in it ^
bend and flex these and also look inside the coil contact for corrosion green oxidation pull out the spring and check the copper contact if the boot feels mushy it could have a pin hole in it
do the same here check for any cracks or burns in the wire insulation anything on these will cause the misfire even the slightest burn will leak voltage you can wrap electrical tape around suspected areas and test for the condition I don't know what size motor you have or what kind of ignition system ? so here's all the stuff
I have to send another post to much data/photos
if its the 3.0 this is it
drain the cooling system at the radiator you will see a petcock drain valve it could look like whale tail or a tee with tube coming out of the bottom or a plastic nut with the tube on the bottom on the lower right passenger side loosen which ever one and use a big enough sized pan or container that is stiff not to flexible and able to hold a least 2 gallons of antifreeze because you need to get as much out as you can to drop the level of fluid inside the motor so when you take off the housing antifreeze will not be pouring all over the place and put a rag underneath it to catch any dripping out so you don't have a mess and if any does spill on the floor clean it up and flush it with water this is highly poisonous and will kill any animal instantly so if you want your pet dog/cat to still meet you when you come home be very careful also for the squirrels and other animals roaming at night use rags to soak up any after and before water don't let this go into the sewer system either if you get caught doing this the police can give you a summons and so can the E P A you can get 2 up to $5,000.00 each this is not a joke either so be as careful and out of sight as possible in case you do have a spill/ in the photo's you see the housings the thermostat the o ring gasket the way you see the thermostat facing is the way it goes back in arrow head facing out towards the front you can use additional sealer on the flat surface of the housing just a small line around the housing will be enough for extra sealing and put it back together and tighten each bolt a little bit at a time to make sure they are all seated properly and then final tighten till you feel the bolts grab/snug then turn each one a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn more/ DO NOT CRANK THESE BOLTS YOU JUST HAVE TO GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH THEY ARE IN PLASTIC HOUSINGS AND YOU WILL PULL OUT THE FITTINGS THEN YOU'LL BE GOING TO HELL WITH OUT A HAND BASKET SO JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN SNUG WILL DO IT/ now make sure the valve on the radiator is closed before you add antifreeze taking out the nut or valve and putting an anti seize grease or other grease on the threads will help for the next time so it will come loose easier and tighten easier again /DO NOT TIGHTEN THIS TO HIGH HEAVEN FOLLOW THE SAME THING SAID BEFORE TILL ITS SNUG AGAINST THE RADIATOR WILL DO/PUT YOUR ANTIFREEZE BACK IN IF ITS CLEAN AND HAS NO DIRT LEAVES OR ANYTHING FLOATING IN IT/ IF ITS OLD AND COULD USE THE CHANGE DO IT NOW AND DRAIN IT ALL OUT FOR NEW FLUID REPLACEMENT THIS GETS DONE BY PUTTING IT IN THE BOTTLE ON THE SIDE OF THE RADIATOR THE TOP SAYS USE COOLANT ONLY ON TOP OR SOMETHING TO THAT AFFECT/after you replace the coolant and the car is running add more as needed and check for leaks there should be none if you followed what was written here then once you can get the coolant level around the cold fill mark on the bottle your done put the top back on some click some just get really tight and go for a ride and celebrate and be proud of what you did and learned during this procedure YEAH! YOU DID IT HOORAY FOR YOU! the next day check the level air in the system will be out and the level may have gone down bring it back to the level full cold mark and remember all your fluids expand when they get hot (motor oil /transmission/power steering/antifreeze)and must only be filled to this mark or the recommended amount from the manufacturer next any old antifreeze and any other fluids you have in the future must go to the gas station that has a repair facility or any auto shop that does repairs they will take it from you for disposal. I WROTE THIS THREAD FOR YOU AND ANYBODY ELSE WHO COMES ACROSS IT TO USE THE INFORMATION SO YOU COULD HELP YOURSELF AND LEARN TO DO THINGS GOOD LUCK TO ALL OF YOU STEPHEN
the center part with the 2 notches fits on the transmission and don't have a fit when you first put it in and the truck doesn't start this has to be adjusted by someone under the car while you try to start the car your original one maybe can be adjusted but I think it's n/g because it's showing 2 positions at the same time depending on where you buy it the cost will be for aftermarket $20.-$45 for an automatic transmission $65- $85 for a manual one the dealer will be over $100-$150 I hope this helps and please post back with progress or results and please rate me positively good luck stephen
