20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Mustang - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Does your high mount brake light work, if so then the multi function switch may be the problem. The brake lights work through it.

Probably can't be done without the key. Why not just get a correct key from the dealer? Much cheaper than replacing the entire switch and paying the dealer to reprogram the ECU (unless you are not the owner with a title).

Did you overheat this engine?

ford is notorious for having bad grounds which would cause your symptoms. Check the dash harness ground which should be on the main harness as it comes up from the steering column. It is better to check the ground circuit which can be done with a test light, just instead of grounding test light as usual use the grounding clip on a positive wire and touch tip of test light to ground, light on you have a good ground, no or dim light check ground attachment bolts or wire.

Black plug with a black wire is ground for the radio. Usually the is a tab sticking off the case it attaches to.

It's very difficult to see how the power steering could cause your car to shake and vibrate. If the power steering was leaking you would see fluid somewhere .. and the steering might be heavy. You say this also happens when the car idles? What springs to mind here is defective engine or gearbox mounts. I would also suspect that the cause of the vibration is what caused your exhaust manifold to crack. If you let the car tickover and open the hood can you see the engine physically move? Check those engine mounts .. Another possibility (and this once happened to me) is that the flywheel -on manual transmission or torque converter -on automatic transmission is loose. If those bolts which hold it onto the rear of the engine are loose it can cause vibration severe enough to make the teeth in your head rattle, not to mention make the car vibrate and rattle as if you're continually driving over deep potholes with out of balance wheels... Transmission fluid problem? No.. that doesn't seem to be the fault. If the transmission fluid level was low, or it was dirty, the autobox would have difficulty in changing gear. It wouldn't cause any vibration problems. It's very difficult to diagnose problems without actually seeing the car, but .. but .. I would guess that the cause of the vibration is within the transmission .. a loose torque converter or a torque converter problem

Check the bulbs, and turn signal relay under dash. And just to be sure about the fuse replace it with new 1 to if it start.

www.ask.com/mfg.name/make/model/error/code/p1000/ did you check the rotor cap, check points and condenser if you have 1, solenoid, check the wiring that plugs into the alternator, check all ground clean of rust, dirt, grease, oil, if you have carburetor system, this a float issue, not set right I KNOW YOU SAID YOU HAD GOOD FUEL PRESSURE but what if the pressure is to high??????????????????? contact me for more info if these ideas dont work

It could be the printed circuit like in F150's or some panels still use bulbs to backlight the display. You might try to look under the dash with a mirror and see if there are bulbs attached to the printed dash circuit.

Sarah

1. Ensure you are using the correct spec replacement battery.

2. In many vehicles the radios and sound systems will cease to function if the battery is disconnected and require the radio code (supplied with and unique to the vehicle) to be punched in to activate the unit once power is restored.
I am not sure if the 2000 Mustang has this feature.

Make sure you have turned off all electrical functions on the car and remove the key from the ignition.

3. Batteries are dangerous as they emit explosive gasses which can ignite easily with one spark.
Do not change the battery immediately after running the car. Open the bonnet and allow air to circulate for a while before changing. Wear protective eye wear and clothing when working with the battery and remove metal objects such as rings ,watch bands, bracelets etc. as these could accidentally touch a battery terminal and cause a spark. (Be careful as I have personally seen a car battery explode when gas emissions have ignited with a spark).

4. Disconnect the cable from the negative ( - ) terminal first. Using a spanner, loosen the nut on the cable end and gently remove the cable from the battery terminal. You may need to move it around a little on the terminal before it slides up and free. Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) terminal second by loosening the nut and gently removing the cable. Move the cables out of the way and place a plastic cover wrapping over both cable ends so they do not accidentally contact an exposed battery terminal.

To eliminate risk, wrap some plastic electrical tape around the old battery's terminals before removing it. This ensures no accidental contact with metal parts of the car when moving the battery. The new battery should have a plastic protection cap over each terminal. Do not remove these until the new battery is secured and you are ready to re-connect the cables.

5. The battery clamping system will need to be released to remove the battery.

6. Check the metal cable terminals for corrosion (the presence of white ashy material). They will need to be cleaned up before connection to the new battery to ensure good contact.

7. Install the new battery on the battery platform ensuring it is firmly and properly seated and clamped with the clamping system. Ensure it is properly secured before re-connecting the cables.

8. Connect the positive cables to the positive (+) battery terminal first and then the negative (-) second. (The reverse of removal). Do not overtighten the nuts on the cables when clamping them to the battery terminals.

9. I usually run a very light and thin smear of petroleum jelly over the metal cable ends and top of the battery terminal once everything is clean and connected up. Now replace the protector cover (if fitted to your vehicle)) over the positive cable end and you are done .

10. If your car radio is coded, disconnecting the battery will clear the code on the radio so ensure you have the code available to reset the car radio after the battery is reconnected.

get a shop vac to mack sure all duck work (air vents) are clear..

It is safe to jack up the engine by using an old folded up beach towel or something to give similar cushion as to not bend the oil pan. Make certain that there is nothing holding the engine from being lifted freely, i.e. heater hoses, radiator hoses strut mount stiffener etc.

Take the original key and new key to Home Depot they can code it cheap

This issue can be related to a variety of problems. If the check engine light is on I would have the codes scanned for problamatic sensors etc. If no check engine light on, have a look at the throttle plate and bore by removing the air hose from the filter box to the throttle plate and inspecting for gumming up. ( Black/dirty) If so, use a carb cleaner spray and old tooth brush to remove any deposits that may cause base idle to be affected. Another problem could be the IAC ( idle air control ) motor not working properly

Check basic stuff. Compresson first. Compare #5 with the other cylinders. If it's lower, squirt some oil in and check again. If it comes up, rings. If it doesn't come up, valves or perhaps head gasket.

you have to have the keys programed into the PCM again. Did you replace anything prior to this problame. If you replace the PCM, Instrument Cluster or PATS you have to take the car to the dealer to have the three systems synced back to each other. if you haven't replaced anything it is just a matter of the key is not being recognized. you will need to keys to perform the key programing and it can be done by a lock smith.