Top 20 2000 Ford Expedition Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and spelling of model. Question moved to model category. Short answer is you can't. The Ford PATS system is very complex and designed to stop exactly what you are trying to do. ECM, BCM, PATS Module and sensors all there to prevent theft. Turn the ignition off, and press the brake pedal. Turn the ignition on and off three times, on the third turn leave the ignition running. Press and release the brake pedal, and then turn the ignition off. Repeat these steps again for a second time. Apr 9, 2020

How do I reset the anti theft on a 2000 ford expedition?

Vehicle History https://www.vehiclehistory.com > questions > how-do-i-... ..

Question edited for clarity and typos. Question moved to model category. You need the vehicle diagnosed by an auto electrician with a professional scan tool computer. It will monitor all the sensors and especially the MAF and Short Term fuel Trim. It is far more cost effective to pay him for an hour that guessing on parts to replace like the fuel pump and filter. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Fuel Pump relay? Anti-theft light flashing? https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+ford+expedition+5.4+fuel+pump+relay+location ..

Like all electronic devices, a blower motor must have power and ground in order to function. A blower motor that continues to operate when the switch is turned off still has both power and ground present when it shouldn't. Assuming this vehicle has the manual HVAC system (rather than automatic), the blower motor should be disabled by interrupting the power supply circuit to the blower. The ground side of the blower circuit will always have a ground path through the function selector switch assembly. Power is supplied to the blower motor using a blower relay. Relays have a "control side" which also require both power and ground as well as an "output side" which has power and a path to whatever component it is that the relay operates. On this vehicle the control side of the blower relay is always grounded and the power side is only energized when the function selector switch assembly is moved away from the "OFF" position. A short-to-power in this circuit within the function selector switch assembly could provide power at all times and cause the blower to never turn off. Alternatively if we assume the control side is working normally and turning off when it should, the output side of the relay should never provide power to the component. That is unless the contacts within the relay have a short-to-power condition in which case the blower would receive power at all times. To summarize, I would suspect either the function selector switch assembly is internally shorted or the blower relay is stuck in the "ON" position. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-buy-a-good-quality-heater-blower-motor

First look at your battery cables make sure clean and tight clean the ground on the engine block inspect those cables for corrosion and your starter solenoid relay next look at the starter case in the very front of the starter you will see a braided cable that maybe covered in nylon insulation /heat shrink coming from the solenoid if that cable is broken the starter is not grounded and all you will hear is a click /clank when you turn the key this must be re placed and the starter will work ??? if all is ok but dirty connections then do your cleaning and reconnect the cables when the alarm sounds use your remote to get it out of theft mode a brief loss of power could've put you in theft mode like you suggested but I have to go through the process because obviously I'm not there ok the solenoid could be done also so write down everything you've done to eliminate possible causes good luck stephen and post back if problems persist

Buy a book for your truck it has fuse diagrams

There are several. Three in the dash and one in the rear of car close to the evaporator. It depends on what problem that you are having to which blend door/actuator you are looking for. Is you problem that you are not switching the air from the floor to the vents and defrost or is it a problem with the air staying hot and not going to warmer or cool when you control the temperature control. Is the problem in the front or rear?

I'm a lifelong Technician, but I know situations and problems differ a lot sometimes. I've had this very issue. It was my transmission toasted that caused this issue, I bought a little time by adding a container full of brake fluid which causes the internal seals to expand and make things work better for a little while. But it's no fix, maybe yours isn't shot, but I'd try the brake fluid as it can't hurt. Mine was the same way, like it had a 4000-5000 RPM Stall Converter and didn't engage 1st Gear or move at all u til 4K-5K was reached. A week later I lost all forward gears and then had to drive home in reverse which thankfully wasn't far but far enough! It sounds like you've changed fluid since you've changed the solenoids in the pan, if you didn't change both the fluid/filter you could try that but I'm sure you did, be sure to drain and change the fluid in the torque converter too. CHECK OUT THE LINK IVE ATTACHED TO THIS MESSAGE AS IT HAS SOME VALUABKE TROUBLESHOOTING AND DIAGNOSTIC INDORMATION THAT WILL PROVE HELPFUL IN NARROWING THIS DOWN. READ IT AS THOROUGHLY AS POSSIBLE- IT MAY SAVE YOU A FEW $$$$$$!!! Did it have the good old "Burnt" smell when you drained ir have smelled the transmission fluid. Add some brake fluid or Lucas Transmission Treatment to see what you're working with. After I did so, it dropped right into gear at a normal idle speed like everything was perfect, I was changing It about a week or so later. Maybe you'll be luckier than I was- but I appreciate honesty and thought you would too. I'd start looking for a good used transmission or someone to build one. There's an add on the Greensboro, NC craigslist for a guy that builds bullet proof/upgraded transmissions guaranteed not to fail for about $849. Even if that's not close by, it may be worth looking into or finding a similar situation closer. Shipping is pretty cheap these days, it may be a great solution. If this helped any any please let me know by clicking the icon to say this was helpful, feel free to leave a quick review or follow me as I primarily deal with auto/technical/mechanical subjects and may be helpful again. Thanks again and have a great day!

Underneath the car center under the rear seat floorboard. There's a little work involved. Only 3 bolts hold it in, but the wiring change-out is a pain.

The flasher unit on my 2000 Ford is located behind the dash and almost above the steering column.

Code P1746 reads as:- Pressure Control Solenoid "A" Open Circuit. this is the valve that controls the pressure of transmission fluid to the clutch mechanism. There is a problem with the wiring to it or the solenoid itself is faulty. If this pressure isn't kept right it could eventually damage the clutch system. (Very expensive repair)! Get a good auto-electrician to look at it. It might just be a loose or dirty wire rather than a faulty clutch.

I believe it's a clutch driven fan with a temperature element in the clutch. I've had one go bad and it's a bit ot a pain to replace. You have to take off the fan shroud and disconnect the main radiator hoses to give yourself some space. The Haynes manual has a good description.

You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with parts info, fuse box, gear box, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything Worth it

Most likely you have a bad wheel bearing on the right front tire but at the same time you could have a stuck brake caliper on the front right as well you can tell if it's a bad brake caliper if the vehicle well rolling at about 5 miles an hour and shift it into neutral bad bearing if when you shift the vehicle turning the wheel hard to the right it kind of grinds you could also jack up the front right tire and turn the wheel rotating it to see if it is stiff

Inspection and Verification

1. The power windows system is a generic electronic module (GEM) controlled system.

1. Verify the customer concern by operating the power window system.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage; refer to the following chart:

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Window regulator electric drive
• Window glass
• Vent window motor

• Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
  • 6 (5A)
  • 8 (5A)
  • 15 (5A)
  • 17 (10A)
  • 18 (5A)
  • 20 (5A)
• Battery junction box (BJB) Fuse:
  • 103 (50A)
  • 110 (30A)
  • 116 (40A)
  • 601 (30A)
• Relay(s)
• Window regulator control switch
• Window regulator electric drive
• Vent window switch
• Vent window motor
• Heated mirror
• Heat grid switch
• Heat backlite grid
• CJB
• GEM
• Circuitry
• Wiring harness
• Loose or corroded connector(s)

1. If the concern remains after the inspection connect the scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel and select the vehicle to be tested from the scan tool menu. If the scan tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the scan tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the scan tool manual.

1. Carry out the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTIC TEST. If the scan tool responds with:
   • CKT 914, CKT 915 or CKT 70 = ALL ECUS NO RESP/NOT EQUIP, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • NO RESP/NOT EQUIP for the GEM, Go To Pinpoint Test A .
   • SYSTEM PASSED, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the GEM.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the GEM Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics. The odds of this being a fuse are 0 your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

Likely bad ground. Also check battery voltage when headlights are on. Most stereos shuts off when battery level drops bellow certain value

Looking at wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the power window electrical circuit's an using a DMM- digital multi-meter to test the B+ ( voltage ) side of the circuit and the negative (ground ) side is how a professional automotive technician does it. All power an ground goes through the driver's door master switch . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power windows . Click the search button then the blue link. 2003 2006 Ford Expedition Window Switch Replacement 2004 2008 Ford Power Window Repair Ford Expedition Power Window Regulator Replacement

See page one at the pdf link below.http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=18451

vacuum leak or blocked filter is more likely the problem, idle is controlled by the vacuum. if its losing vacuum it will not hold the valve open to let air flow though. look for cracked or split vacuum lines. can even be a damaged diaphragm, not holding.

Having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's would be a good first step . ABS light on codes are stored . Suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop that has the knowledge an testing equipment to diagnose the problem properly . Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) The 4-wheel, 4-channel anti-lock brake system (ABS) consists of the following components:

• ABS module
• Front wheel speed sensor
• Front wheel speed sensor ring (integral to the front wheel bearing)
• Hydraulic control unit (HCU)
• Rear wheel speed sensor
• Rear wheel speed sensor ring (integral to the rear halfshaft)
• Yellow ABS warning indicator
• As you can see here , it can set numerous
• DTC'S Why guess an replace parts that won't fix the problem .
• Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTC Description Source Action B1342 ECU is Faulted ABS Module NOTE: If other DTCs are present, REPAIR them before installing a new component. CLEAR the DTCs. RETRIEVE the DTCs. If DTC B1342 is retrieved, INSTALL a new module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module in this section. REPEAT the self-test. B1483 Brake Pedal Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test B . B1676 Battery Pack Voltage Out of Range ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test C . B2477 Module Configuration Failure ABS Module CONFIGURE the ABS module. REFER to Section 418-01 . CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. If DTC B2477 is retrieved again, INSTALL a new ABS module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module . REPEAT the self-test. B2734 Pedal Travel Sensor Supply Error ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test M . B2736 Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Fault ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test M . B2737 Pedal Travel Sensor Jammed Error ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test M . B2738 Pedal Travel Sensor Velocity Error ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test M . B2740 Pedal Travel Sensor Spike Error ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test M . B2741 Sensor Cluster Defective ABS Module FOLLOW the diagnostic tool directions for the calibration procedure. B2900 VIN Mismatch ABS Module VERIFY that the module has the correct as-built data. CHECK for correct powertrain control module (PCM) and ABS module configurations using the diagnostic tool. RECONFIGURE the component as necessary. FOLLOW the diagnostic tool directions for the ABS module configuration or REFER to Section 418-01 for the PCM. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. C1095 ABS Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test D . C1145 Speed Wheel Sensor RF Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test E . C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test E . C1165 Speed Wheel Sensor RR Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test E . C1175 Speed Wheel Sensor LR Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test E . C1233 Speed Wheel LF Input Signal Missing ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test F . C1234 Speed Wheel RF Input Signal Missing ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test F . C1235 Speed Wheel RR Input Signal Missing ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test F . C1236 Speed Wheel LR Input Signal Missing ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test F . C1277 Steering Wheel Angle 1 and 2 Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test G . C1278 Steering Wheel Angle 1 and 2 Signal Faulted ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test G . C1279 Yaw Rate Sensor Circuit Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1280 Yaw Rate Sensor Signal Fault (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1281 Lateral Accelerometer Circuit Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1282 Lateral Accelerometer Signal Fault (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1285 Booster Solenoid Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test I . C1287 Booster Pedal Force Switch Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test J . C1288 Pressure Sensor Main/Primary Input Circuit Failure ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test K . C1440 (with stability assist) Pressure Sensor Main/Primary Signal Faulted ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test K . C1516 Roll Rate Sensor Signal Fault (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1517 Roll Rate Sensor Circuit Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C1730 Reference Voltage Out of Range (+5V) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test L . C1805 Mismatched PCM and/or ABS-TC Module ABS Module CHECK for correct PCM and ABS module configuration using the diagnostic tool. RECONFIGURE the component as necessary. FOLLOW the diagnostic tool directions for the ABS module configuration or REFER to Section 303-01 for the PCM. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. C1963 Stability Control Inhibit Warning ABS Module This DTC is for information only. GO to the Principles of Operation. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. C1991 Module Calibration Failure ABS Module Follow the diagnostic tool directions for the calibration procedure. C1996 Active Yaw and/or Roll Control Disabled ABS Module This DTC can be set if the ABS module system is activated for 15 seconds of continuous operation. CHECK for any major chassis modifications, gross suspension misalignment or other items that can alter the vehicle tracking dynamics. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. C1998 Module Calibration Not Complete ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test O . C2769 (ABS only) Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor Electrical Failure ABS Module INSTALL a new ABS module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. C2769 (ABS with stability assist) Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor Electrical Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C2770 (ABS only) Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor Plausibility Failure ABS Module INSTALL a new ABS module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. C2770 (ABS with stability assist) Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor Plausibility Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C2777 Sensor Cluster Bus Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . C2778 Sensor Cluster Power Supply Failure (Sensor Cluster Fault) ABS Module Go To Pinpoint Test H . U1900 CAN Communication Bus Fault-Receive Error Network Fault REFER to Section 418-00 . U1901 CAN Network #2 Communication Bus Fault-Receive Error Network Fault Go To Pinpoint Test H . U2023 Fault Received from External Node Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 418-00 .