20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Expedition - Page 9 Questions & Answers

replace battery or alternator

Remove hose at junction

Replace fuses and wires

You should find bolts at the front and back of the seat rails under the seats. They may be standard hex bolts, or could be Torx (or reverse Torx). Once you figure out which kind of bolt, simply unscrew them (they'll be VERY tight) and carefully remove the seat. There will also be electrical connectors (probably with a "keeper" mechanism). Disconnect it carefully, and don't forget to reconnect when you put the seats back in.

If it´s from Zero speed, accellaraing, and no power, and considering you don´t mess with car, just check fuel filter. More data is needed to give more precise information, like engine RPM, tubo or not, diesel os gas, etc. Please supply more info...and as more it comes, the more we are able to help!!

Replace your air bag light. It's prob. burned out.

You shoul not have to remove the fuel rail unless the injectors go thru the valve cover! Yes the fuel rail is pressurized

May have take the flywheel out and have it machined back to spec

-First you need to check the heater Open/Closed valve. Is it fully open the when switch to Hot...? If not adjust it before look for another problem. Good Luck Mai

The trans-axle probably has two safety switches - one for neutral and one for park. The switch that senses the shifter's park position may have failed or a connector has come loose. These switches are usually accessible from outside the trans-axle or transmission, and are not terribly expensive to replace or service. Since the vehicle starts in neutral I would just live with it for the time being. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dave_fb2c45146b845cea

sounds like the start inhibitor switch is at fault , have the OBD codes read for a better diagnosis

Does it have remote start? If yes then your could be done. To keep the remote start codes in the truck requires a 9v battery to save the codes in ROM, ROM has to be flushed to get rid of the OBD codes. If you do not have remote - pull +cable off battery for 30 seconds. If you have other settings -- personal radio stations ...... you could loos these as well. OR purchase and OBDII handheld reader -- with code clearing capability.

Bad alternator or battery has an internal short are the easy answers.

Serpentine belt not on pulley.alternator burnt out .not connected to battery properly

Check that it's earthed properly. Might be a little corrosion on the contacts.

Check the display. Ask a helper to step on the brake pedal while you check the lights from the rear. If no lights appear, check the fuse that connects the brake lights. The owners manual will show the location of the fuse box and which fuse is for the brake lights. Pull out the fuse and look at the wire in the central window. If the wire is broken, replace the fuse. Make sure the new fuse is not blown, and carries the same amperage. Take note of lights that are out, if any are working. The problem may be cured by replacing the bulb in a brake light that's out. A burned out bulb has a broken filament and a dark brown spot on one side. Check the owners manual for bulb type. Check the circuit if replacement bulbs and fuses do not restore the lights. Find the wiring diagram in the vehicle assembly manual. The circuit for the brake lights runs from the battery to the fuse, to the pedal switch, to a connection plug, to the lights. The circuit has to be checked with a volt tester at all points. Check the battery power and the light on your volt tester. Turn the ignition key far enough to activate the electrical systems. Turn on the lights to check for battery power. If the battery has power, ues it to check the volt tester. Put the black lead (the ground) from the volt tester on the negative battery terminal. Briefly touch the red tester light on the positive terminal. The light on the volt tester should flash brightly. Test the wiring to the fuse. Clip the ground wire to solid metal near the fuse. Touch the light tip to both sides of the fuse. Both should light the tester. If neither side lights, the wire between the battery and fuse is bad. If only one side lights, the fuse is blown. Test the switch and wiring. Touch the light tip of the tester to both terminals on the brake pedal switch without putting any pressure on the pedal. One should carry power and the other should not. When both show power, the switch is stuck and the brake lights are always on. If neither shows power, the wiring between the fuse and the switch is bad. Now check both switch terminals while the pedal is depressed. Both sides should light the tester. If not, the switch is bad. Check the connection plug. Unplug the connection and refer to the vehicle manual to identify the brake light wire. Touch the tester light on the brake light wire at the inner socket on the battery side. If the tester lights, the power is flowing to this point. If not, the wire between the plug and the pedal switch is bad. Check the socket. Plug in the connector plug and remove the bulb. Touch the contact inside the socket. If the tester lights, the socket is good. The socket and wire running to the plug should be replaced if the tester doesn't light. Check the bulb with the ground wire. The bulb must be in its socket. The ground wire running to the socket should be black or brown. Stab the tester through the insulation. If the tester lights, the bulb is good. Replace the bulb if it doesn't light. Check the ground wire. Remove some of the insulation around the ground wire. Twist one end of the extra wire around the exposed ground wire. Touch the other end to a solid piece of metal. If the brake light comes on, the ground wire is bad. Best Offer 2013 11 MB SD Connect Compact C4 Star Diagnosis with WiFi

You may be getting a vapour lock in your fuel system. Disconnect fuel pipe from filter and check fuel flow. Take the car to a mechanic???

It sounds like the blade has come loose on the shaft. The motor is turning the shaft, so you have a fairly easy job of tightening the blade and arm to the shaft. Look at the assembly where the big round bit that drives the arm goes into the body. If it's not missing, remove the round cover, You'll see a nut there. Tighten it up, put the cover back on, and the job's done.

HT lead ok? Spark plug ok?

When an engine oil light comes on, this is the 911 call to you that your engine is having an emergency in that there is not enough oil to lubricate the moving parts of the motor that keep it operating. Those knocking noises that you heard were the dying breath of your once dependable Ford engine; which is now junk. Because you "didn't have the time to pick up oil", you will now have to find the time to either replace or completely rebuild the engine. The Expedition has a V-8 so expect to pay at least $3500 for a new motor.