2005 Ford Ranger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. https://www.google.com/search?q=calibration+number+is+for+my+2005+Ford+Ranger+motor+4.0 ..

Here's a pic of fusebox location on my 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4.0 Far rear driver side engine compartment. I removed fuse cover to make it easier to see.

Several things could cause crank but no start. In my experience the most likely causes would be: 1) Clogged fuel filter 2) Bad fuel pump relay 3) Bad fuel pump. 4) Bad control module Replace fuel filter first since it needs to be replaced every so often anyways. If still won't start You can swap fuel pump relay with another same relay in fuse box. Easy way to rule out the relay. Test fuel pressure. If low or no pressure Test control module. If good, Replace fuel pump. I had same issue with my 2005 Ranger 4.0 several months ago and replacing fuel pump fixed it. Runs great now.

positive crankcase valve is located on the back of the valve cover on the right valve cover i believe if your looking at the engine, you will need to remove some hoses to be able to access the pcv valve, here is a diagram to help

Good Day Mathomara!

Please try code 3722

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Thanks for asking Fixya.

I have a 2005 Ranger Edge. I had the same problem. I did two things. First I replaced the fuel pump and it worked again for about 2 months. Then it stopped working again so I replaced the inertia switch with a new one from the Ford Dealership. It worked again for about a month. Than it stopped again, so I replaced the wiring that goes from the inertia switch to the main box on the bottom right passenger side. I also put the inertia switch inside the casing on the lower right so it couldn't be kicked. It has been working for 2 weeks now. I hope nothing else happens.

On another note, I had another electrical problem. My speedometer cluster stopped working and my mechanic found loose wires rubbing against metal on the inside. I think the electrical components on these Ford Rangers are just cheaply made. That is the only thing to check for you now. If it isn't the fuel pump or the inertia switch, just check all the wiring from fuel pump to inertia switch to make sure it is all done correctly. Also check all fuses for fuel pump/inertia switches.

Sometimes I say I and mean a mechanic, I am not a car expert, but would like to be.

I had this same issue. There is an inertia switch located below glove box. Mine went bad. Here is what I wrote to another person with the similar problem:

I have a 2005 Ranger Edge. I had the same problem. I did two things. First I replaced the fuel pump and it worked again for about 2 months. Then it stopped working again so I replaced the inertia switch with a new one from the Ford Dealership. It worked again for about a month. Than it stopped again, so I replaced the wiring that goes from the inertia switch to the main box on the bottom right passenger side. I also put the inertia switch inside the casing on the lower right so it couldn't be kicked. It has been working for 2 weeks now. I hope nothing else happens.

On another note, I had another electrical problem. My speedometer cluster stopped working and my mechanic found loose wires rubbing against metal on the inside. I think the electrical components on these Ford Rangers are just cheaply made. That is the only thing to check for you now. If it isn't the fuel pump or the inertia switch, just check all the wiring from fuel pump to inertia switch to make sure it is all done correctly. Also check all fuses for fuel pump/inertia switches.

Sometimes I say I and mean a mechanic, I am not a car expert, but would like to be.

fuel starvation from somewhere? filters,, sometimes two filters one by the tank and another under bonnet, dont think its plugs, but you can remove and use small wire brush to clean them. check the plug electrode colour to see fuel burn pattern on cylinders, should be lite brown deposits on electrodes, white electrodes = overheating and black sooty electrodes = to rich fuel mixture.

release gas cap if sucks air it could be vapor locking if starts after replace cap

You should remove the excess immediately. This can be done in two ways 1. Remove the drain plug on the pan under the motor. If you do not want to drain all of the oil, attach a vacuum hose from a vacuum cleaner at the oil fill on the valve cover. This creates a vacuum on th engine and prevents all the oil from draining at once. Otherwise 2. Drain all the oil and the refill to recommended level. Over fill of the oil creates air bubbles that prevent proper lubrication of the engine.

You never say make, model or year or engine type of this vehicle, but I can say that fuel pump voltage is module controlled on newer vehicles to save energy and make them quite, so it is entirely possible that is the correct voltage in a static test.

www.autozone.com and make a free account. Log on to that account. Put in the year make and model, look for the free repair guides. That is as close to free as you are going to get. The OEM manuals for motor vehicles are several hundred dollars.

Go to manualslib.com

Go to auto zone get the codes.it is free.

The replacement kits (includes Conversion Kit. Includes Switch And Bracket, Cowl Trim Door, Instruction Sheet) are the same for 2004 & 2005 models. Since it includes the trim, the kits are sold by the interior color. Ford discontinued just the switch (made a change) some time back. Ford OEM auto parts Motorcraft filters license plates

That could be caused by any number of thing's . Cam , crank sensors Etc.. Your best bet is to have it diagnosed by a qualified repair shop .

Hi Allison: If the work was done in a shop I would bring it back and review the problems with the service manager. Usually they are really good about getting it done right, without additional cost. If this was a "home" job, there could be several different problems. I'd be jacking it up and checking that there is no slack in the bearing installation. I'd also be looking for any reason that one brake would drag or slide. To exaggerate, if one rotor is greasy, and another one scored, braking will be different and the wheel will jerk. Here's a fun way to check. Find a large vacant space like an empty parking lot. At about 10 kmp, very lightly hold the steering wheel, and sharply hit the brakes. Depending on how much fun you are having you can try it a bit faster. The steering wheel will sharply turn to the side that is getting the most braking force. It won't take long to track down the problem. Hope this helps. Be safe. Fix them ......... soon.

white can be water in the combustion process or faulty injectors have a compression test done and have the injectors serviced by an accredited diesel service shop

Richard,

have you tried to check overheat gauge?? some temperature sensor? isn't that faulty?? I don't mean thermostat, but sensor... is it really overheating, or gauge is showing overheating??? long time ago I had car that had same problem.... never overheated, but still signalized high temperature.....that time it was temperature sensor probably not compatible with correct one ....