20 Most Recent 1995 Volkswagen Golf - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Change the weak fuel relay and it should start up everytime without having to put your foot on the pedal.

check fuse's, and earth conections,

lift the carpet in the boot(trunk),take off the plate,then remove the pump from the tank,if you see it, its easy.

This can be caused by a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS). It will normally be found on the end of the throttle shaft oposite the cable connection. They are fairly simple to replace, and cost less than $50.

Pull up rear seat and remove access panel to fuel tank sender/pump unit(held in place with screws).Remove inlet and outlet pipes,twist locking collar and remove unit.Take cre to let pump unit drain before removal or car will smell of fuel.

at the airbox and not on the intake like the 1997 and later (late 96 as well in south africa)

It is possible to cause damage with a faulty purge control valve....
The charcoal can is there to capture vapors from the gas tank (& carb if applicable) when the car is not running. The cars vaccum from the engine sucks it into the intake manifold when the car starts.
A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system. This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.
You may also need new spark plugs to get the engine to turn over.
Good Luck!

try a specialist tuning shop with the right diagnostic equipment .i wouldnt even dream of what could be wrong with the electronics involved even on a vehicle of this age

I would say you flasher relay is the problem or it could be corrosion in the fuse box


Lloyd

check fuse first, then, fit new bulbs,then, if that dont work, fit a new column switch arm.(high beams have a relay,low dont.)

If you turn the key to "start" and hear a click, but nothing else happens, try jumping the two large lugs on the starter solenoid (attached to the starter) with a wrench or socket extension. If you hear the same click, but no crank, you need to replace the starter or solenoid (If you replace the starter, it will come with a new solenoid attached.)

Ensure that when you replaced the battery, you hooked all the cables back up properly.

You'll see a small wire on a clip attached to the solenoid. You can try jumping from the battery + terminal to that small tab on the solenoid, and if the engine cranks that way, it's definitely a problem between the key switch and associated wiring. If it still does not crank, it's more than likely a problem with the starter/solenoid units.

Could be a mass airflow sensor (MAF) or throttle position sensor. my guess would be the MAF, it went on my car and did the same thing.

oil pressure sensor giving false reading, check connection for loose wiring, broken or corroded. test it and replace if needed.

NO,there is no reset button on the factory system,you can reset the whole system using the key,as shown in the handbook.change batteries in remotes (if supplied when new)every 18 months regardless of book.....(you didnt give me the model)

same as skoda/vw/audi/seat,so parts easy to find in breakers...

If your battery has no power in it at all then this will be the result. The alternator needs power to generate more power. It uses a small current drawn from the battery and mechanical energy from the engine to generate the electrical power needed to recharge the battery. If the battery has a short circuit inside(Which happens on old batteries) or perhaps is not connected properly the engine will die as soon as the jumper cables are disconnected. First off, make sure the cables are connected correctly. Red wires go on the terminal marked with an +. If the wires arent color coded then the cable connected to the bodywork goes on -.
If correct try switching the battery with one from another vehicle.
If you have a voltmeter measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine idling and then with the engine at about 3500 rpm. If there is no difference between the 2 measurements you have a duff alternator or faulty wiring.

With a timing light using the diamond notch on the fly wheel which is 6*BTDC.

The whole dashboard has to be removed in order to get to the fan assembly. It usually takes about 4.5hr of repair time for this job. Some would take a whole day if they havent done this at least 5 times.

The only way to tell for sure is to temporarily install a mechanical pressure gauge and read the actual pressure. That will determine the next course of action--replace the pressure sensor/switch, or recommend remedial action within the engine itself (worn bearings, worn oil pump, or plugged intake screen). Hope this helps!