20 Most Recent 1991 Volkswagen Passat Questions & Answers

On most Japanese cars you can reset the service light using the button on the odometer. Try holding down the button until the service light goes out.

Replace the spark plugs and wires first then if it still runs poorly you may have other more serious problems. Since worn plugs and wires really don't make the engine misfire unless one is broken or the spark plug wires leaks to ground.

That engine would require a complete teardown and rebuild. Pretty expensive when you consider all the new parts required, like for one, possibly a new crankshaft.. After removal, a rebuilder could tell if a new one is required. Yes, pretty expensive...do you want to spend that much on a '91 model car? If it were me, a replacement would be a better option. Good luck.

i'm not sure for this particular vehicle. but almost always the pcv valve is located on top of valve cover. it will be a small oil filter looking thing or a large hose that leads into your intake manifold. if the valve itself is not visible. remove the cam cover and it will be directly underneath the hose

If you're talking about an hydraulic clutch system that uses brake fluid:
1. Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2. Have an assistantpull the clutch pedal up and leave it there.
3. Locate the slave bleeder - the slave is connected to the master, is located on the transmission housing and pushes the clutch release lever).
4. Open the bleeder and have the assistant push the clutch pedal down.
5. Close the bleeder.
6. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir
7. Repeat steps 2-4-5-6 until brake fluid comes out with uniform pressure from the bleeder. Non uniform pressure is sign there may be air in the system.
There should be good pressure at the pedal now in the up position. Pressing it should disengage the clutch.

I read that, if neither the passenger or the driver seatbelt work it is a fuse. If not it is as simple as changing the door switch. If you dont see a visible door switch it is actually in the door and you should notice a door ajar light in the dash if the switch isn't working. Try to ask your VW delaer about some recall in this subject.

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This is common in modern cars and normal, unless it ran for longer than 5 minutes.
It runs on after you shut it off to help cool the engine down.

check it out with a multimeter ,but i think your jump leads may not be any good and you have just flattened the battery ,but check the big fuses in the power distribution box under the bonnet

I,m assuming that you have the head off for some reason. So before you put it back together you need to know a couple things. Make sure your crank is lined up with your timing mark for TDC BEFORE you put the head on the engine. Also the timing marks on the head have to be lined up BEFORE you put the head on. If they don't do this properly you will bend valves when you try to get it lined up.
The head bolts must be tightened in a specific order or the head will crack.They must also be removed in the reverse order. The five bolts on the exhaust side of the engine are numbered from the timing belt in this order: 10-4-2-6-8. The five bolts on the intake side are numbered from the timing belt in this order: 7-5-1-3-9. Sorry I can't send pics so maybe draw this out before you start, basically it a set of X's.
timing 10 4 2 6 8 distributor
belt 7 5 1 3 9


The torque is done in 3 stages. The first torque is 30 ft-lbs (40Nm). The second torque is 43 ft-lbs (60Nm). The third torque is 1/2 turn or 180 degrees. This final torque can be done as 2 1/4 turns or 90 degrees if you wish. Hope this helps.

do you mean, fuel pressure regulator. if so replace it. the regulator is going bad.

Start with a fuel filter. A clogged filter will drop pressure and the lack of motion and air trapped in the pump will make it louder then normal

look on the left hand side at the front of the bell housing, and is held on with a terrible allen bolt that is probably rusty and will be difficult to get out....

It's a 2 hour job and easy once you get going.It's just removing the steering wheel,underdash panels and sockets like light switches and vents and geartray that need to be removed and then the whole dash.i did it in a open area and lay everything out in order of removal and set up a camcorder if youre unsure.There is a few screws that hold the heater housing onto the firewall that is on the inside of the engine bay near the wiper arms that are tricky and if you dont know they are there it can drive you mad.

COULD BE A BAD WATER PUMP.OR STOP UP RADIATOR CORES.TRY FLUSHING OUT RADIATOR.AND FLUH OUT ENGINE REMOVE THERMOSTAT.FLUSH ENGINE WITH A GARDEN HOSE THROUGH WATER PUMP UNTIL FLOW OUT TOP RADIATOR UNTIL YOU SEE CLEAR WATER.REMOVE ANTIFREEZE FIRST.DRAIN OUT ANTIFREEZE IN A DRAIN PAN PUT IN A SAFE PLACE AWAY FROM CHILDERN AND PETS.FLUSH OUT ENGINE I WOULD REPLACE WATER PUMP ALSO SEE WHAT HAPPENS.

that is the "sport" button,it holds the gearchange to a higher rev so that you can be a traffic light racer if you want.....when its off the car will try to make you drive as economically as it can,changing low down the rev range.1989 was the first time vw used the computer controlled gearbox,and it was a huge success.(if you only use the first 1/3rd of the gas pedal you will see a massive increase in gas mileage........)

If it blows instantly you have a dead short, And the only honest opinion anyone of us can give is trace it, From the switch to the box, and to the motors, Sorry and good luck

I would check to see if you are getting spark at the plugs, with a spark test. If no spark, you could have a bad cap, rotor, ignition control module or pick up coil. Can you hear the fuel pump "buzz" for a few seconds when you turn the key on? If not, you may have a bad fuel pump realy, fuse, or the pump itself.

Get a turkey baster, all the oil will float to the top, and you can **** it out with that. I would get an oil cooler that goes outside the radiator and run the lines into it, stop the oil from getting in there, you will have to plug the old lines together at the radiator, to keep the water in. If that is where the leak is, if it isn't, then you have a blown head gasket somewhere, check for steam coming out the exhaust while driving, keep an eye on the temp gauge, don't let it overheat. Hope this helps.

Put the key in the lock. On the back of the lock is a small phillips screw holding the lock lever onto the lock cylinder. Remove the screw and lever, pull out lock cylinder, reinstall in new handle. Make sure you replace the lever the same way it came off the old one.