20 Most Recent 2004 Nissan Altima - Page 9 Questions & Answers

4 cylinder?at the trans end of cylinder head by where upper rad hose connects to engine.3 wire connector.10 mm bolt secures it.

Power steering fluid good?
Belt not slipping that drives the pump? could be a bad power steering pump.

well first check if they leak. if they leak they will have oily film on them. then if they dont leak u can do bounce test put ur knee on the rear bumper and bounce the car up n down as hard as posible the wen u stop if the car continues to bounce more then 3 times u need shocks

have you looked on ebay online you may find them at a salvage yard

Hello,
You most likely have a blown bulb, some vehicles have the high beam and low beam in the same bulb, I don't recall off the top of my head if yours does.
In any case, you likely just need to change a bulb.
Most auto parts places will install the bulb for FREE, you just have to buy the bulb from them.

I hope this was helpful to you, if so, please consider taking a second to click on YES beside the question, " was this helpful?", 2 thumbs up is a failing grade.
Thanks, Donnie
ps, the dogs name is Lady.

CRANKSHAFT SENSOR LOCATED ON THE TRANSAXLE BELL HOUSING.

You are absolutely correct

Dealers will sell you as may services as
possible,then on the 4th time there,start
to diagnose your initial drivability issues

You most likely had misfires for years ,and
now the O2 Sensors and Converters are ruined

I don't dislike dealers, but have never recommended
them for the last 46 years. I learned real earlier in
life about that.

take a look at your vehicles headlight bulb! if its not the problem check fuses which is located under the dashboard. its better check it with an auto electrician. thanks

I have the same problem with my 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
Just started yesterday and they turn on when they want to, turn off when they want to. Any solution to this?!?!? Please help

That is an indication that your ecu is reporting a fault code in the vehicle. Have the trouble codes read to find out what exactly is wrong.

Hi, I would surmise by your description that you have an intermittent fault with the solenoid on the starter motor. The clicking sound is the solenoid trying to engage when power is applied to it.

The cheapest solution is usually to fit a re-built str mtr, or if you have the services, have your own unit rebuilt.

Please don't just replace the solenoid, it's a false economy, no matter how well intentioned!

Let me know the outcome.

Good luck.

The check engine light comes ON. This light comes because there is any error code saved in cars computer. In this case the car needs to be scanned. You can get your car scanned at car diagnostic center like www.autozone.com or at your local car garage. Once the car is scanned the error code will be detected so as per that you can get the part replaced. At autozone service center it's absolutely free to get car scanned. Because the engine light is on, it's advisable to get car scanned.

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Thanks.

Hello! Sounds like a ride to me...Since you do not see any oil on the pavement, and it's using oil at an excessive rate, I would believe you would see blue or black smoke coming out of the tail pipe...
let me know if you do...Also, does the engine run normally?...No hesitation,or rough idle?...A plugged Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve will cause an engine to consume oil...See photos below...
First is for a 2.5L and second a 3.5L...Both cost around $10...Guru.....saailer

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 6P1247


AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 6P1238 I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

This is the best I got hope it helps!

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove the door speaker.
3. Temporarily reconnect the power window switch to the door harness.
4. Operate the power window switch to raise/lower the door glass until the door glass bolts can be seen.
5. Remove the door glass bolts.
6. Raise the door glass up into the door frame/channel and hold in place with a suitable tool.
7. Remove the module assembly bolts and the module assembly.
8. Disconnect the harness connector for the module assembly, and disconnect the harness clip from the back.
9. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Rear

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove the rear door finisher.
3. Remove the plastic vapor barrier, being careful not to tear/damage it.
4. Temporarily reconnect the power window switch to the door harness.
5. Operate the power window switch to raise/lower the door glass until the bolts can be seen.
6. Remove the door glass bolts.
7. Raise the door glass up into the door frame/channel and hold in place with a suitable tool.
8. Remove the bolts and the regulator and guide channel from the panel.
9. Disconnect the connector and remove the regulator assembly.
10. To install, reverse removal procedure.

sounds like the door hinges may need some grease applied to them. open door and spray a teflon based lubricant onto hinges, move door back and forth and spray hinges one more time. if this does not free up the door then I would say that there may be a problem with the alignment of the hinges.

c...

If you remove the engine, then look directly behind the steering rack, you'll see it right next to the left phylangee.

Yes, u gotta do a fuel injector flush, u'll see great improvements.

I think that the bulbs have double filaments & in my experience it not uncommon for for only one filement to blow out so, have you tried changing the bulb ?

hope this helps

JP