20 Most Recent 2004 Nissan Altima - Page 3 Questions & Answers

There could be a number of probable causes. First I would check to see if it starts in neutral. I'm assuming this is an automatic transmission. If it does, the problem could be anything from a bad connection coming off the neutral safety switch to the harness , the needs of a slight adjustment of the switch which is located on the transmission where the shifter shaft is located. there are screws or very small bolts that can be loostened to allow you to roll the switch forward or backwards (Note, you only move it a fraction when you make the adjustment and try it again). There is also a relay ( think which is located on the right hand side of the car mounted on the inner fender. Usually the cover for the relay box will be labeled showing you which relay it is. The label may also be located on the inside of the box cover. If you are able to locate the relay, the top of the relay will have a picture showing one part one the top which goes accross the relay cover that has a curly section whic connects the two points. One of those teerminals which the relay pins or spade connectors coming out of the bottom the the relay will get a signal from the ignition switch ig thee circuit is completed when the key is turned to the start postiton. Using a test light is the easiest way to check it. Using the test light, check the two terminals to see if tth test light goes on This is before you turn the key. (reason being some of the nissans used grounds to make and break the circuits to the relays to make them energize. If one of the terminals is hot, it uses a ground to operate the relay when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. If it uses a ground, Ground the end of your test lead to a positive power supply which is hot all the time, like the battery. When you turn the switch, the side thich is opposite to the one you just tested, should light up.. Now. Checking the other terminals opposite eachother, one should light your test light the other should be dead. If you don't get the test light to light to light up on either terminal (female part), you have a problem with a power supply going to the relay to complete the circuit to the starter.Sometimes if you are lucky, you may have another relay in the box which is identical to the starter relay on color and size. You can swap these out for testing rather than going through all the the above tests I described with the test light. . Just swap them out, turn the key and if the starter turns, th's your problem. If the testing I described above with the test light gives negative results, one, which requires you to turn thr switch would indicate the problem is between the relay box and the ginition switch. And the other I have already told you about.Don't rule out the ignition switch, you would have to take the column cover off if I'm not mistaken to access the connector. I don't have a schmatic in front of me, so I can't tell you that color wirewould come off the switch to test at the harness connector with a test light or digital volt/ohm meter. You can get a schmatic off the Internet. I hope I have given you some direction to go gin and how to go about checking things. The neutral safety switch can be checked with a digital volt ohm meter. There should be three pins in the connector. If, I am not mistaken. Ine is a common, usually the center pin. The outer pins are the ones which complete the circuit then it is in park and the other in neutral.If you have the connector disconnected and can test the switch as I have described, you have to have a friend move the fear selector slowly tp Park and then to neutral. If it fails either test, then loosten the bolts or screws enough to where you can rock the switch, usually towards the back of the car. Remember "JUST A SMALL AMOUNT and then repeat the test. If it still fails, you have a bad neutral dafety switch.Again, I hope I might have shed some light on the subject.

No. The temperature can far exceed what the muffler wrap is designed for and will quickly burn off. I sounds like you may need a new cat. I have seen under certain conditions, a cat get so hot that it actually was glowing red like you put a torch to it. If I were to try anything and I really wouldn't, I would try header wrap because it is designed to withstand temperatures in the range of 1,000 degrees.Your cat is probably rusting out.

a lot of newer cars have seperate fuses for both left and right head lights both high and low beam. you should check your owners manual to see fuse locations and designations for your head lights.

From the way you've described it your gear stick linkages maybe on there way out. When changing gear does the car resist getting into gear? If it's more of a crunching sound then I would try double de clutching, to do this you need to: change gear as usual but instead of holding down the clutch throughout the gear change hold it down to take the vehicle into neutral then release the clutch then push the clutch down again and change into desired gear. To change down it's basically the same principal but you push down the clutch to put the vehicle into neutral then push the throttle down just to pitch revs then release the throttle and push the clutch down to change into your desired gear, if it won't go in to gear easily then rather the throttle until it does. You can go onto youtube and search for double de clutching and I'm sure some results will come up hope this helps!

Try the panic button ,or try turning the key that sometimes turns it off

You really don't want to do that Just use your alarm remote to turn it off before you use your keys

Most if your car applies all you need to do to try to reset it is disconnect the battery for approx an hour then reconnect it and start or drive it say about 30 min That in most cases forces a computer retest/set of censors and idle adjustments done by the onboard computer If problem still exsists some Auto parts places can test sending units and censors

sounds like your catalitic converter is stopped up,do you lose power the warmer the car gets?if so look under your car after uv run it, n see if your catalitic converter is glowing red.

Here's a link showing you how it goes. Repair Guides Thermostat Removal Installation AutoZone com

Removal and Installation To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Mass air flow sensor electrical connector
   • Tube clamp at the electronic throttle control actuator
   • Air cleaner to electronic throttle control actuator tube, upper air cleaner case
   • Mass air flow sensor from the cleaner case.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Mass air flow sensor to the cleaner case
   • Air cleaner to electronic throttle control actuator tube
   • Tube clamp at the electronic throttle control actuator
   • Mass air flow sensor electrical connector

Your blower motor resistor is bad,it's mounted next to blower motor.,remove connector and 2 screws and take to Autozone and match up with new one.Here's a link to it. Repair Guides Blower Motor Removal Installation AutoZone com