Top 20 1994 Nissan Sentra 4-Door Questions & Answers

I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. It would'nt move forward or reverse, engine was good both solenoids for forward and reverse worked, but still couldn't diagnose the problem. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and now it works perfect! covers wiring, codes, diagrams, torque specs, PCV, everything got it from www.reliable-store.com

Are you talking about the engine cooling system or a problem with your Auto A/C?

Sounds like the fuel pump is failing, have the pressure checked at start up.

The Black one ....

could be a poor ground. check the ground wire on the battery, battery to engine, and battery to body. remove the wires and clean contact points, reassemble with dielectric grease. Trailer lights will act this way when there is a poor ground contact in wiring plug.

run the fault codes and look for failing sensor (probably in the accelerator position area)

Look for a pinched or bare spot on the wire from the sender to the dash.

On the 94 sentra the fuel pump relay is located under the hood, driver's side to the left of the battery, third slot from the front of the car, should be green in color.

Why did you replace the battery if it was working good?

That isn't really much to go on, but if your timing is bad that could cause issues so I'd take it into the shop for a check-up. Also check your battery and alternator, mine kept stalling at times and the alternator died shortly thereafter. Replacing that seems to have fixed it.

check the sender. first. unplug it. 10 ohms full or about 200 empty. interpolate to find yours, based on how full it really is.... sure, we both dont know. but I check mine with a dip rod like on aircraft. (watch the C130 flight line) some cars have have a check valves as the filler neck reaches the tank , making rod checks impossible. dang. i use a 2 foot long thin metal rod.something that can break. if the sender reads, INFINITY it is Bad. (at sender pins, sure)

While if it was working before then there is little problems which you have to check steep by steep ! 1. go check your car light bulbs & light grips on back of your car . If Bulbs look good then. 2. check fuse in fuse box which is on driver side & on fuse box cover its written on stop lamp & you can check other fuse as well just to confirm if there is another shorting. If all fuse are good then check . 3.Check brake pedal upper side there is one switch which have two wire out check there wire or grip if its have losing then it wont work. if its look proper attached then . 4.This switch have threads which can be adjustable before taking any step to adjust just check when you are pressing a brake pedal there is a plastic needle working inside its come out or not ,If its come out then your brake light switch gone wrong or if its not coming then plastic needle is jammed inside & your car brake light not working. Just to confirm if your brake switch is in good condition or in bad condition . Okay this is final steep you have to check or confirm it switch problem ..... 5. There is two wire on back of brake pedal switch or in a grip coming out , So if its in grip or just on clips, then take a wire piece & bypass or joint both wire which is coming from wire loom sid to brake pedal & check your brake lamps if its blink or on than 100% you car brake pedal switch is not working or inside its short , So replace your car brake pedal switch or if still not blink or On then there is some issue in your car wiring & you better check you car to you auto electrician...... Hopefully you will save your amount not to visit you auto electrician. best of luck....

I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe that did the same thing. I changed the oil pump, new oil, and head gasket. It now has power and doesn't fall on its face when I step into the throttle hard. Hope this helps.

If you follow your brake pedal up to the brake light switch, there is suppose to be a little round semiclear button which fits in a hole opposite the brake light switch this is the most common problem on Nissan products when the brake lights don't go off, the buttons break and fall off. I haven't found an after market supplier, but the dealers keep these buttons in stock. They are very cheap. When you get yours providing it's not the brake light switch, us a little dish washing liquid, position the small end of the button in the hole, they usually have a little bit of a point on them (it is nearly impossible to push in by hand and you really shouldn't use pliars.) Anyway, With it in position, hold it in place and let the brake pedal come up against it. Pull back on the brake pedal torwards you and it will pop right into place. If its a bad brake light switch and the button is still there, take an ohm meter, unplug the switch and touch one lead ot one of the wires coming from the switch and the other lead to the other wire. The ohm meter will tell you that there is a complete circuit when the brake pedal is in the upright position. Good luck.

Probably new new bulbs.

Knocking is most certainly not plugs and wires. A lifter could be it or you could have a broken piston rod/end. Not good and should be looked at by a mechanic.

No vehicle consumes any fluids Stop using it & fix the problem Obviously the brake fluid is leaking out somewhere.

IF you have a cam gear that is directly chained to the crank shaft gear then both gears have to be put on together as there is no adjustment and the chain will be tight when assembled.

A cylinder that doesn't fire could be 1 of 3 things: no spark, no gas, or no compression. Sure, it could be a bad injector, or clogged, but you should do some tests before buying an expensive new injector. You should first check the injector circuit on #2 cylinder. It's a pretty simple circuit, really. Each injector has 2 wires, a power wire and a ground wire. The power wire is one wire, which is spliced to each injector, and has battery voltage on it anytime the ignition switch is on or in "run". Each injector's ground wire is a separate wire going into the computer. When the computer internally grounds for a split second that injector's circuit, the injector sprays fuel out a tiny opening, a nozzle. You can check the circuit for #2, both the power wire and the ground side of the circuit with a test light. Post back and ask, if you want me to explain. You also might want to check the compression in #2, just to assure you there is no mechanical problem causing a loss of compression in that cylinder.

Mary;You Got it Rite-The original problem was a signal of failing alternator & it Sounds like the rebuilt is dumping already(Not Highly Unusual)