20 Most Recent 1990 Nissan Sentra - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I had same problem so I changed all the vacum hoses by intake manifold they were like 9 and they adjusted the timeing and my idle was almost at 1.8 so they drooped it to .700 rpms and it passed with flying colors and added octane buster and a full tank supreme gas...

First of all see the fan is working,this probably the main cause,secondly it can be the water pump not working.I give a tips,to know if the the pump is working properly,when the engine is cold,you take out the hose from the radiator,the upper one,when doing that your radiator must be full of water,now let someone start the engine and you stay in front of the bonnet ,when already start the engine ,see from the the hose that you have taken out if water is coming out well,accelerate a little more see if the water come out rapidly and constantly,be careful not to let the radiator empty keep it with water keep filling it by using a water hose,if the water pump is not pumping enough that the cause of over heating.

most of the time its the throttle pos sensor

Have you tried moving your steering wheel around? it may have locked, which will prevent you from turning your keys all the way until you move the steering wheel into the right position for the lock to disengage

It can easily have somthing to do with the alarm. It is common for an alarm to have a starter interupt relay.
There is also the clutch switch if it is a manual trans. or the park/neutral switch if it is an auto trans.
It can also be a problem if you have an oil leak onto the starter.
I dont recomend it unless you know what you are doing, but what I do some times is try momentarily jumping the small wire on the starter solinoid to the large battery cable on the solinoid to see if it will turn over.
Of course you have to watch out for the obvious hazzards, like make sure it is not in gear, E brake on, carfull not to short the battry cable to ground etc.
I hope this helps, if it does please let me know.

do you change the engine oil your car crosses the maximum miles with the old engine oil once your engine oil density become very low you will get the black smoke (or) you need to check the radiator water wether water and coolant is in correct level or not if it is in correct level you need to change the oil

Sounds like it may need a new governor. This is located under a round plastic cover on top of the transmission.

check battery voltage at solenoid on starter... yu say you have plenty of voltage, I assume you menat at least 12 volts... needs to be at least 12 volts... again tap on starter with key ign switch activated, have some one help... please rate help. thanks

It does sound like the eng. is locked up. You might try removing the starter and check to see if the engine will turn over with the starter off. I have seen the starter drive get stuck. Just reinstall the starter if the crank turns and it should be OK. It worked for me...

maybe weak or bad starter soilenoid

heinrichkemp: The engine in your car is a GA16i
I venture you are asking about the head bolts when you refer to torque settings. The head bolts used on this motor are torque to yield (streach bolts) If you are reusing them, you need to check them to insure they are not stretched beyond limits.
The way you measure the bolt is with a micrometer.
Measuring close to the end where the bolt starts to thread in, about 10-12 threads up, take a reading. Now, go to the other end of the bolt where the threads end and measure about 10 threads in.
There should not be more than a .009 inch difference (.228mm). If there is, discard the bold and get a new one.

You must use a sequence to tighten the bolts, below is the sequence.
11
13 9 3 1 6 8

14 7 5 2 4 10
12 15

torque 11,12,13,14 & 15 to 8.3 Nm (6.1 ft lbs)
Torque the main head bolts by the numbered sequence to
29Nm (22 ft lbs) first pull
64Nm (47 ft lbs) second pull
Loosten all the bolts completely
Tighten the to 29Nm (22 ft lbs) first pull
Tighten bolt # 1 clockwise 85 degrees
Tighten bolts #2- 10 65 degrees
Nissan noted that if you do not have a torque angel meter, you can use a regular torque wrench and torque all the bolts to 69Nm (51 ft lbs)
The valves on this engine have hydraulic lifters, consequently require no adjustment.

It's blowing the fuse because there is a short somewhere in the circuit. Your inspection just hasn't found it yet. Look for bare spots on the wiring; places where the wire might be pressed against metal (especially sharp edges); damaged connectors; etc.

check vacuum line from engine to brake booster under hood near firewall. Or you need a neew booster

I would first determine whether the A/C system has the required amount of refrigerant in it. System wont turn on without that. If that be the case, how did it leak out ? Must be leak detected, repaired and recharged. Now there are numerous other reasons it won't blow cold, but you have to start with the source, being the freon.

Did you use DOT # 3 Brake fluid to fill up the master cylinder like your suppose to or did you use DOT #5 that your not suppose to use???find that bottle let me know asap.John

Yes! If ya dont have a good spring compressor, and ya take the center nut out.. It'll kill you as the spring/shock separates.. My advice is to watch one being done before attempting.. Thanks

there is a large nut that holds that hub on. Remove the cotter pin and the cap from the bolt... remove the bolt and the hub comes off.

Robert

It seems you have a timing problem. Have the engine timed properly. If that does not work it could be a craked rotor or distributor cap. have all these checked.

The belt tensioner is located under the timing cover. It is 1 1/2 round and about 3/4 inch with a groove in the middle where a bolt is tightened. When you remove the timing cover you will see the timing belt, the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft gear. The timing belt goes around these components.. The belt tensioner is loosened and the new timing belt is placed. The sproket also has to be replaced if it is broken. Be careful to notice the little marks that are aligned on the sproket and above the camshaft.. They can be small arrows that have to be aligned exactly the way you took them off. replace the belt and you tighten the tensioner so the belt fits snug and tighten the bolt in the middle of the belt tensioner. It is not too difficult, if you know something about mechanics. If you don't, you will be better of taking it to somebody who does know.