20 Most Recent 1999 Mazda 626 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Have you confirmed the water pump is working? If the car is moving at 10-20 MPH you should have enough air going across the radiator to prevent overheating in a moderate climate at this time of year.

have the fault codes read first don't think it is vacuum at this stage

Heads may be warped or cracked, but u still have a cyl head problem.Did u flush the entire cooling system properly when u did the job? good luck

font corbo down

starting at the tail pipe go towards the engine and the first one you come to is sensor 2. Replace it period.

Not a good signed metal shaving mean your engine is getting ready to go and you might have do to a head job

readjust belt

The most obvious fault here is your battery,may be it needs to be charged or replaced... 2ndly it may be tha the socket wires that connect the ignition inside to the PCM hav been disconected or has partial contact.

Check on top of thermostat housing, there could be a bleed screw on that. If not there locate two heater pipes that travel in the engine bay toward the dashboard. These lead to heater matrix inside the car. If you follow these with your hand the higher one may have like a plastic screw moulded into it. If its there loosen it ( but not right out. Cos you will drop it) also be extremely careful as this is very hot water! Leave it open until only water (coolant) comes out then tighten it up good and tight. Once might not be enough. It could also be somewhere on radiator body but high up. Low level bleed screws don't work as air always rises

Sounds like your radiator mate, cap may not be tight to it's threads, water/coolant levels may have dropped through excess heat or leakage. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can help you on this one, I just stopped off to say that if you're going to start tinkering let everything cool down first. I know that sounds like something you don't need to remind people of but I've seen it done, radiator cap went off like a rocket and scoldings all around. Safety first friend.

If you mean brakes... They are not related to your speedometer unless ther is a blown fuse somewhere... Check all your fuses! Good luck!

The first step would be to test the throttle position sensor. You will have to take it to a shop and have it scanned.

A replacement transmission from a reputable manufacturer with warranty will set you back around $800.0 to $I,200.00, plus labor... Unless you can get it from a reputable junk yard with warranty... In my humble opinion, a 1999 car transmission is not worth the headache/cost. Good luck!

Hi Michael it sounds like someone fit the wrong bulbs. make sure that your side/brake light bulbs have DOUBLE element 5 / 21 watt. Good luck

You need to go to reputable Transmission shop. They can diagnose what is wrong and give you an estimate.

Where the upper/large radiator hose connects to the engine. There should be a 2-bolt flange. You should change the gasket too. Drain a half gallon to a gallon of antifreeze first to prevent a mess. Easy easy .. don't pay "the guy" to do this.

I would think that either the power wire feeding the pump or the pump itself is grounded and causing the fuse to blow. Pulling the injector relay is opening the circuit and not feeding power to the pump would be why it doesn't blow the fuse when it is removed.

for about £30.00 mazda will do it 4 u u need tax book and proof u own it