Top 10 1997 Mazda 626 Questions & Answers

a had sabe problem in a same model about one year.
i replaced inner and outer cv joint

Are you sure that car is obd2 and not obd1 ?

Any way its located in one out of 2 places

1.) under the hood , close to the fuse panel or engine , it should have a cap written Diagnostic on it.

2.) under the dash board close to the fuse box.

can i ask what shape is ur 626 is it newer shape or older shape as changed at this year.

With the engine running, you should be able to feel and hear the shift-lock engage and disengage when you slowly press and release the brake. Start her up, turn the radio off, put your hand on the shifter and give it a try.

If you hear or "feel" it, and it won't shift, I'm guessing your linkage is out of whack, perhaps a result of the accident.

If you don't feel it, I'm guessing it's not getting the "unlock" signal from the brake switch. I believe the shift-lock switch is located at the top of the brake pedal assembly, where it pivots up under the dash. There's probably two switches there, one for brake lights, the other for the lock. Crane your head up under there and take a look. If you're lucky its just misaligned in its bracket. Pump the pedal by hand and see if the switches are being allowed to fully open. If they do, and still no shifty, then its off to the repair shop of Mazda Stealership.

Good luck.

Try unplugging your Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) - you'll find it on top of the metal body immediately after the air filter. I went through an 18 month ordeal - replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, dropped fuel tank and cleaned it, ran 55 gallons of fuel injector cleaner through the system - nothing! After reading some blogs on this car/engine, gave the MAFS unplug trick a try. The car instantly corrected itself (when you unplug this sensor, the engine control module reverts to factory default, allows sufficient fuel into the engine for unitterupted performance.) However, if this corrects your problem, it's only a temporary fix. Run it about 3 days - it you notice soot in the tailpipe, the factory default is running too rich. Replace the MAFS.

If it's the org. engine it will has over 150,000 miles on it.
It's normal to has the valve seal/oil seal on the head to leak oil into the cyclinder.
The smoke you see is the motor oil drop from the seals. It land on the top of the cyclinders and it create black smoke at start up.

The inexpensive fix is to start using high mileage oil with seal conditioner.
This will help soften the rubber seals and help reduce internal oil leak.

The correct fix is to wait until it's time for a head gasket replacement and let the professional service the head.

Complete head service is the only method to stop this internal oil drip problem.

frezze plugs are 3-5 dollars the cost to install them is sometimes expensive because you have to remove parts off the car to get to the freezeplug ? so without knowing which one it would be hard to price ? some are on the back of the engine block and you have to remove the transmission to change thoses??

Hi Galant5Rov,

Firstly, congratulations to you on identifying the Trouble Code. This code relates to the Heated Oxygen Sensor (H02s)

The oxygen sensors supply the computer with a signal that indicates a rich or lean condition during engine operation (i.e. fuel/air metering).

This input information assists the computer in determining the proper air/fuel ratio. A low voltage signal from one or more sensors indicates too much oxygen in the exhaust (lean condition) and, conversely, a high voltage signal indicates too little oxygen in the exhaust (rich condition).

The oxygen sensors are threaded into the exhaust manifold and/or exhaust pipes on all vehicles.

A faulty oxygen sensor due to loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit can cause the following symptoms.
Related Symptoms

• Surging at idle
• Unstable idle
• Running rough off idle
• Hesitation
• Stumble
• Chuggle
• Poor fuel economy
• Spark knock
• Stalling on acceleration

You must take EXTREME care when removing these sensors, as they can be difficult to remove (seize up). You may require a special tool to remove these without causing damage to the sensor.

Cheers,


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heres a diagram to help you, loosen the bottom bolt a few turns then loosen the top bolt then loosen adjusting bolt to loosen belt, use the adjuster to tighten the new belt then tighten top and bottom bolts, hope this helps,

Try unplugging the compressor then put in a new fuse. If the fuse does not blow, the problem may be the clutch on the compressor.