20 Most Recent 1997 Mazda 626 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Start by making sure you have a good battery, or a good charge on the battery. locate the starter signal wire on the starter , usually the small wire, connect your test light. have a friend turn the key and see if test light lights up. if so, your starters bad, replace the starter and you should be good to go.

I have a 1997 626 2.0L 5speed when im driven it like rev limits cuts out around 3500-4000rpm, and when i rev it up and past 4000rpm it stalls, anyone have a idea whats wrong??? thanks i just replaced the crank sensor and egr and still. good power put cuts out

some of these get seized in the threads so yes you might have to heat the area around were it is threaded into the pipe to un seize it.

My advise is to look at what moistcabbage had to say about your problem. Then I will add a little advise:
Put the P0171 on hold until you have a verified fix for the other 2 codes. Here's why:
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A misfire causes raw fuel and air to be shoved down the exhaust as an unburned mixture (After all. that's what a misfire is.) This can cause the free oxygen level in the exhaust to rise and cause the lean code (P0171) From the EGR code that you have, I can tell that you have the 2.0L engine in your car. (This is not a valid code for the 2.5L) In this case, moistcabbage is sort-of correct. Thiscode actually indicates that the EGR valve does not move when the computer commands the EGR to open. (Which SHOULD also be producing a P0400 code, which is EGR no or low flow.) If P0400 is not present, then chances are that this is caused by the EGR sensor "lying" to the computer and telling it that the EGR is not opening when it really is. However, it also may be telling the truth and the computer just hasn't picked up on the low flow issue yet. Anyway, if the EGR is not moving, it could be caused by a vacuum leak, which will also cause your P0171code.
The logical order of this would be to check for obvious causes of misfire like the spark plug, wire, coil, and fuel injector and correct as necessary. Also check the EGR system out to find out what the cause of the EGR not moving code is. (And repar as necessary) Then clear the codes and drive the car to see if the P0171 code returns. If P0171 returns and the other codes stay gone, then you will have to check into oter possible causes of the lean code. Otherwise, I would not waste any time checking into a lean condition at all before the other two codes are confirmed fixed.

p1407 is egr system no flow

p0303 is cylinder 3 misfire

po171 is fuel control system is lean

you might want to start by checking the mass airflow sensor bolts as they tend to come loose.and that should take care of the po171. check the hoses for the egr, if all is okay possibly the egr solenoid might be faulty. for the p0303 check the sparkplug on cylinder three and the spark plug wire, if you have an ohm meter you can check the resistance of the wire by hooking up your test leads to either end of the wire (after removing it from the engine) and make note of the resistance...then replace that wire and remove another one and test it the same way.. the results should be about the same, if you compare a shorter wire then the resistance will be slightly lower...just as if you test a longer wire it will be a little more. hope this helps

Best thing to do is if you have a check engine light on is run a scan and see what codes come up..If no check lights on than could be your battery or a coroded battery cable,or both,,doent idle right? Should be a check engine light on,,,,,,Auto Zone parts will run a scan for free and tell whats wrong and read the codes for you.

it sounds like your brakes need to be replaced. the squeaking is actually a brake pad indicator rubbing on the rotors letting you know that the pads are low an need to be changed soon. if you let this go on for too long you may damage the rotors and spend a lot more money than just a simple brake job.

If you had crossed wires on a 4 cylinder you'd have known about it before it ran long enough to overheat.
Did you perhaps knock a wire off the temp switch or fan relay and disable the cooling fan?

get a new mechanic the one you have is an idiot if he wont let you leave the car with him so he can try it a few times a day

the clutch cable has snapped.or the nipple on the pedal has failed,simple job to replace but awkward/fiddly toget to.

presumably its a manual box. Could be oil on the clutch plate. check if there is oil around the bottom of the housing or maybe dripping. if this is the case then you need a new clutch and a crankshaft oil seal. Help you more if I had more details.

the timing marks are on the camshaft pulleys and on the crankshaft pulley. their is a mark on the engine and on the headds around the pulleys

Mass air sensor

there is a short to ground somewhere on this vehicle which is blowing that fuse

there are several located around block and heads

First check the spark plugs.

If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor ,a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.

2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.

3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)

5) Faulty ignition switch.

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You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.

Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:--

If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.

But if all this possibilities checked out ok,then yes its the ECU fault.Get the ECU checked and replaced.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

When the car stops driving, at that time check the starter, if its got very hot, then this can be starter over heating issue. There are many other things to be checked.

Try this troubleshooting: ----If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor, a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM. 2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM. 3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground). 5) Faulty ignition switch.

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You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows: --

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR---If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem. Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:-- If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit). But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor. ------A car that cranks over but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the car. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced. If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The starter gets power from battery to start the car. If the starter is faulty then it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in the car. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. Also check and confirm that fuel pump is functioning properly and the fuel filter is not clogged. One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start the car. If the car starts momentarily, then there's a good chance the fuel pump is not working or the car is out of gas. You can also listen for the fuel pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start.---------- This troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.

fuse/relay