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1992 Mazda MX-6 - Page 7 Questions & Answers
Car will not jump start
Check battery voltage. If volts are very low, put on charger. In many cases, you can't jump through a really dead battery... not enough voltage gets through to computer etc to make systems operate.
Battery may be used up... if it will not take a charge, replace it and check charging system before driving. PS: use a charger to charge battery. If it is very low, you candamage charging system in other vehicle. Also,,, You cleaned terminals already RIGHT???
No power is getting to
no power getting to the car ,well .check a round ur battery and see if
you could find the one wire going from your battery to ur fues box and
see if the 100 amp fues is blown if it is thats ur prob
When car is being driven,
The cooling fan will stay on if the sender has an open, or the wiring to the sender is open, or the control module has a fault, this is known as fail safe so you don't fry the engine, make sense? you need to run a self test for fault codes, Kragen will do this free.
I do not have a
Key symbol usually means an anti theft of some type, but likely that would not contribute to a hesitation when starting. I can almost with certainty say that the two issues are coincidental and not part of the same problem, starting with hesitation could be a myriad of problems battery voltage fule filter fuel pump, ignition coil, ignition module distributor if it has one and on and on. The thing is you can not give such a super vague description and expect someone to come and save your day for you, tell us the real conditions does this happen when warm or cold or both by hesitation what do you mean slow turning or not catching when turning also is this intermittent or consistent issue does the issue occur when the light comes on.....You need to give a little more info if you want your problems solved for free....
Can not figure out piston
For years 1990-1998 4cyl (most vehicles) :
looking at engine compartment from front of vehicle:
Piston Numbering is -- 1 2 3 4 -- from left to right.
Firing order is normally (unaltered) 1-3-4-2.
Brian
Radiator removal
hi bricko
im dave
its generally quite easy
1. disconnect the cable from the negative side of the battery.
2. drain the coolant from the rad using the plastic draincock at the bottom left or right of the rad. If it is less than 1-2 years old save and reuse it.
3.remove any parts that may be in the way of removing the rad and fan.
4.disconnect the coolant resorvoir hose at the rad cap and remove reorvoir if it is the way of removal.
5. disconnect the connector on the fan.
6. remove the screws that hold the rad to the top crossmember of the car.
7.if your car has a block heater remove the wire or reposition it
8.remove the plastic crossmember from the top of the rad if so equipped.
9.at this point you may have to remove or reposition the air cleaner assembly.
10.disconnect the two or four metal transmission cooler lines found on the left and/or right sidewalls of the rad. Plug the metal lines with plastic plugs available at any hydraulic supply store or use pieces of cut rag and elastic bands or twist ties to prevent contamination and loss of transmission fluid.
11.Loosen the hose clamps and remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. If they dont pull of easy you grasp them with a pair of slip joint pliers and twist back and forth until the seal breaks. Be careful not to crush the plastic fittings that the hoses slide onto. If the hoses are fairly old or deteriorated at all it might be easier to just cut them off and buy 2 new hoses. The new hoses will be a very tight usually and you may have to boil the ends for a couple of minutes to make them pliable. Also if the hose clamps are the type you need pliers to remove you might like to replace with the screw type for future ease of removal.
12.Remove any clips or screws holding the fan module onto the rad remove.
13. If the a/c filter/drier is attached to the radiator remove the screws attaching it and support it in its current position.
14.this same filter/drier might also be attached to the fan module so check that before completing step 12.
15.lift the radiator from the engine compartment and be careful not to spill residual fluid on the paint as it corrosive. Clean any spills immediately. dont scratch the vehicle either and try not too bang or distort any cooling fins. they are very fragile.
16. post me as to why you would want to remove the rad anyway.
17. check the condition of the rubber rad mounts and replace if deteriorated
18.clean the area around and under the rad/rad mounts of mud and gravel
19. After reinstalling the rad fill with the proper mixture of coolant and wait for the car to reach normal op temp and refill as needed. check for leaks at the draincock, hoses, and transmission lines. with the car idling at op temp check the transmission fluid level. Before checking however it is important to cycle through the gears. this is for automatic vehicles only.
Tappets clearance on Mazda B25 please?
I'm assuming you mean the B2500? The clearance normally adjusts itself hydraulically. If your just checking the clearance it should be no more than 0.15 mm {0.0059 in} on a Cold engine.
Mazda etude model 2002 petrol filter location
There are two likely places. One will be under the car, on or near the fuel tank. The other location will be on the body panel at the back of the engine bay, (Firewall/Bulkhead). It is an 'Inline' filter so it commonly looks like a metal can with a pipe going into the top and bottom.
Buy the replacement filter first then you will know what the filter looks like when your looking for it.
Hello, what is the head cylinder toque specs for a mazda demio DW engine 2001 model 1.3L
For a 2001 Mazda Demio (DW) with a 1.3L engine, the cylinder head torque specifications are crucial for proper assembly. While I can provide a general guideline, it's important to consult the specific vehicle's service manual or a reliable automotive database for the most accurate information. The torque specs can vary depending on engine type and production changes.
A common practice for cylinder heads involves tightening the bolts in a specific sequence and sometimes in multiple stages. For many engines, the process might start at a lower torque value, followed by one or more additional steps where the torque is increased or the bolts are tightened further by a specified angle.
For Mazda engines around that period, a typical torque specification for cylinder head bolts might start in the range of 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft-lbs) for the initial step, followed by one or two more stages where each bolt is tightened further, often ending with an angular tightening (e.g., 60-70 degrees) in the final stage.
However, without access to specific information for the 2001 Mazda Demio 1.3L engine, this should be taken as a general guideline only. The exact torque specifications and tightening sequence are critical to avoid engine damage or leaks. It's strongly recommended to:
- Obtain a service manual or a reliable repair guide for the 2001 Mazda Demio with the 1.3L engine.
- Follow the specified torque values and tightening sequence exactly as described.
- Ensure you're using a calibrated torque wrench for accuracy.
If you don't have the manual and can't find the information online, consider contacting a Mazda dealership or a professional mechanic with access to a comprehensive automotive database. They should be able to provide the exact specifications you need.
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