20 Most Recent 1992 Mazda MX-6 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Bummer, well it takes spark at the right time, compression and fuel to have the engine work.....Most likely there is a timing based issue, investigate ignition and valve timing.

www.ebooksquad.com/search/mazda+6+obd+port+location i hope this helps you..

I don't understand problem, can you please clarify? Are you saying that diesel engines are nothing but problem? Alex.

Hi, your Mazda MX6 is a 4 seat vehicle....

If it happens when the turn sinal lever is moved, it means you have a short circuit at that point...i would be replacing the combination switch (which is the turn lever and wiper switch in one unti), possibly from a wrecker.....

What type of Mazda, Turbos that wont spin up can be seized, have broken vanes/rotor shafts, stuck open wastegates. Visually inspect the turbo, if it has a waste-gate lever you should be able to move it with your hand. In any event take it off and give it a good once over inspection

Hello wrojas150,

Below is a diagram with the firing order. I hope this helps.



Regards,
netvan

Hi Mike,
Sounds to me as though you have one or more injector leaking. First advice is to check the oil in the sump. You may find that the fuel has leaked past the piston rings and contaminated the lubricating oil. Please make sure you check that out as when you replace the injector(s) and start up, if the oil is contaminated the engine may knock!
Best regards Johngee10

The junk yard is probably going to be you cheapest and quickest solution.

it might be a cmputer chip.

If it is a manual transaxle,it will have to
come out and be gone through

A way of saying rebuilt ,if it were an automatic

I suggest check this...



Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

Hi, you did not specify the type of transmission in you car. There are two types of transmission namely the manual and automatic transmission. An automatic transmission shifts by itself and a manual transmission uses a gear shift. An automatic transmission and a manual transmission have to be taken out differently. Here are some basic steps for removing a transmission depending on which one your car has..

Automatic Transmission
Use a floor jack to raise the car off the floor and put jack stands under the front and back of the car to get to the transmission. Make sure the car is well supported and won't fall on you while you take the transmission out.
Loosen the link cables to the transmission and the fluid cables to the radiator. Take the vacuum lines loose from the modulator if the car has one. Use a wrench to remove the two u-bolts from the rear end of the car. Slide the drive shaft away from the transmission.
Take out the speedometer gear assembly and put the transmission jack under the transmission pan. Lift the transmission. Take off the lower bell housing cover. Use a wrench to take off the torque converter bolts, the bell housing bolts, the four cross member bolts and take off the rear transmission mounts. Lift the transmission jack and take the cross member off.
Lower the transmission while you move the transmission jack toward the back of the car. Make sure everything is unhooked and the transmission clears the car.
Take the old transmission off the jack and put the new transmission on the jack. Raise the transmission as you slide it under the car. Hold the torque converter in while you turn it until it clicks.
Put the cross member back on, using a wrench to replace the rear transmission mount, the cross member bolts, the bell housing bolts and the torque converter bolts. Replace the speedometer gear assembly and slide the drive shaft back into the transmission.
Replace the vacuum lines to the moderator if you have one and replace the cable linkage to shifter and throttle valve. Use the floor jack to support the car while you take out the jack stands. Lower the car to the floor and remove the floor jack.


Manual Transmission
Use a floor jack to raise the car off the floor and put jack stands under the front and back of the car. Make sure the car is secure and won't fall on you.
Take all the electrical connectors loose from the transmission. Put a mark on the drive shaft so it can be put back in the same position. Remove the rear U joint from the output shaft. Put a rag in the extension housing to keep fluid from leaking out.
Take the speedometer cable and shift linkages loose from the transmission. Put a jack under the transmission and with a wrench, remove the rear engine support nut, the crossmember and the rear support insulator. Put a jack under the engine to support it and use the transmission jack to pull the transmission toward the rear of the car.
Take the old transmission off the transmission jack and put the new one on. Push the new transmission under the car, raising the jack as you go. Replace the rear support insulator, the crossmember and the engine rear support nuts.
Reconnect the shift linkages to the transmission and the speedometer cable. Replace the drive shaft back to the mark and replace the U joint. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the transmission. Use the floor jack to support the car while you remove the jack stands, then lower the car to the floor and remove the jack.

KEITHHAGER . CHECK YOUR GAS FILTER.

the ignition switch on the back of the ignition has broke inside

sounds like you might have a overcharging regulator in the alternator,they will overcharge aswell as undercharge,have your charging system checked and if it's putting out more than 13.2 replace.









TIM.........

1-3-4-2

this photo may help

THE AALINEMENT MARKS ARE ON THE GEARS CAM AND CRANK JUST LINE THEM PU CAM DOWN AND CRANK UP BUT IT HAS TO BE A PERFECT MATCH