Top 20 1997 GMC Safari Questions & Answers

sounds like fuel filter or garbage in your tank

Welcome to the world of improper diagnostics. There isn't a trouble code in the world that says you should replace a part. It only tells you what's going on with that component. In your case, the code P0137 means that the computer sees Low Voltage on the Bank I Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. You replaced the sensor and still have the problem. That means the computer sees Low Voltage on the Bank I Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. In other words, you've got a wiring problem, not a part problem. You'll need a shop manual with step by step instructions on how to test the entire circuit to find the fault.

The ABS light is usually a speed sensor problem and is a GM nuisance . it should not affect normal braking. It might be a booster for power assist problem, which will affect normal braking (expensive). Get rid of that old GMC.

Fuel relays then the fuel pump.

Have your body control module tested.

It's the vent actuator, it moves the baffle that changes the direction of the air flow. Here is a video of a broken vacuum hose that creates the same problem.It could also be a failed actuator.

Have they given you the code for the service light?

This is common for these. The power steering pump does not move a lot of fluid or have high pressure when at idle.

Idle air control motor. Clean it or replace it.

does the vehicle have an auto-start? Solenoid is getting energized from somewhere

all seats are removable its how far are you willing to go to most ar bolted and these very tight hex heads or torx will require some work

Here is a link to a video. Chevy Astro and GMC Safari are the same chassis and engine. Chevy 4 3 Astro Starter Replacement

Next step would be check the brake light switch. It is mounted about the brake pedal and has 2 wire leads to the switch. A simple switch that, when the brake pedal is depressed, the switch closes allowing current to make a connection and light up the brake lights. Check to make sure the wires are connected and that you have voltage at one of the terminals. A simple "circuit tester" is all you need. Turn on the ignition switch (no need to start your car) find the wire that has current (test light will light up). Then depress that pedal and you should have current at both terminals. If not, you probably have a bad switch. If you DO have current at both terminals, the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. Before tearing into it though. CHECK THE GROUND WIRES at the taillight assembly. Usually a single wire that is screwed into a metal part of the housing unit. If it corroded, loose or missing. That is your problem. Hope this helps. Good Luck. Jack

The starter would have nothing to do with the alternator not charging. You most likely need a new alternator and possibly a new battery. At the very least, the battery will need to be charged 100% before running with a new alternator.

Explore the following 2 products: K-Seal (ST5501) Liquid Copper (1109) I have not used either one but worth looking into. Regards, Dennis

when adding Freon the A/C must be running and you must add to the low side of the unit (do not hook to the high side DANGER)

The battery terminal splice for the alternator is close to the stater in the plastic loom covering it is probably broken

how do you know the alt isn't charging?

Make sure the firing order is good these motors have a problem with the ignition coils you may have to replace it the tend to short when it is humid like when is snowing or raining.

Could be two problems,bad switch driver door[blinking],could be four way switch[clicking].