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1993 Chevrolet Beretta - Page 7 Questions & Answers
How do I remove the
The front seat assemblies are secured to the floor at three points. The center, front of the seat is bolted to an adjuster which is secured by two bolts that thread into weld nuts into the floor pan. Two rollers at the rear of the seat which are an integral part of the seat, travel in guide tracks. The inboard track is secured to the side of the inner rocker panel and the outboard track secures to the side of the floor pan tunnel. Slide the seat all the way forward and remove the two seat track to floor pan bolts (14mm) and then slide the seat all the way back and remove the two seat track (adjuster) to floor pan bolts (14mm) and then lift seat out. If they are power seats, disconnect the harness connector. If seat
doesn't slide all the way forward or back, you will need to use a long wrench instead of a socket and ratchet to remove the bolts
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10/19/2010 7:00:08 AM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Oct 19, 2010
I do not know how
hmm,, ok,, try this..
1.) look under the seat you will notice two sliding rods,, on this there are 4 brackets with bolts.. its maybe hidden under the upholestry,, any way remove the bolts,, slide any lift seat..
10/13/2010 12:19:06 AM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Oct 13, 2010
How do I remove front
slide the seat all the way back there is a plastic cover over the bolts there is a phillips screw holding the cover on remove it them remove the bolt should be 13 mm slide the seat forward same thing remove plastic cover them 13mm bolt if it is power unplug power plug some seats have a seatbelt plug unplug that also hope this helps
10/12/2010 1:46:58 AM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Oct 12, 2010
When i push the clutch
if its a cable,the nipple has gone,and you will need to replace the whole cable.If on the other hand its fluid then either the master or slave cylinder needs replacement and bleeding.
8/25/2010 7:46:15 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Aug 25, 2010
I have an 89 berreta
this is not very common problem.But yes its seen many a times.The inner cable which provides tension to the hand brake gets loose or worn out or breaks internally.The cable has to be removed and replaced.
There are two procedures.
one is cable adjust ment and other is cable replacement.first try adjusting the cable if that is not helping go for replacement.
i will mention the procedure as follows:--
Hand Brake Adjustment Procedure
- Jack up the rear of the car and place it on jack stands.
- Adjust the rear brakes if necessary.
- Go to the front of the car and remove the rubber boot from the brake handle.
- Use two 10mm wrenches to loosen the top nut on the top of the cable. Hold the cable from turning with the screwdriver in the slot. Loosen both sides.
- Pull the lever up three clicks.
- Turn the bottom nuts down on the cables until you can just turn each rear wheel by hand. Braking effort must be equal on both sides.
- When you are four notches on the handle, the wheels should be stopped and you should be unable to turn the wheels by hand.
- Release the brake again and make sure that the wheels turn freely and that they are "balanced" -- both stop at the same time. Readjust as necessary.
- When the brakes are tight at four notches and the lever and free when the lever is released, you have them right.
- When they are right, run the top nuts down on the bottom nuts. Hold the bottom one with one wrench while you tighten the top one--this locks the adjustment.
- Reinstall the rubber boot.
- Lower the car to the floor.
- Hand Brake Cable Replacement Procedure
- Block the front wheels to prevent movement.
- Fully release the hand brake.
- Back off the brake adjusters slightly.
- WITH THE REAR WHEELS STILL ON THE GROUND, remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the rear wheel shaft. Mark both the nut and the end of the axle where the cotter pin went thru so you can torque the nut to the same place when replacing it. Break the rear axle nut loose with a 36mm (1-7/16" socket) on a 3/4-inch drive breaker bar and "cheater" -- a length of pipe about four feet long to slip over the braker bar to give more torque. Remove the castle nut, then raise the car.
WARNING -- Loosen the two castle nuts (one on each side) while the car is on the ground. The castle nut should have at least 217 ft-lbs of torque on it -- the leverage needed to remove it is enough to topple a car off the jackstands.
Note: If you car is equipped with spinners (like ours is), the castle nuts will not be accessible with the wheels on the car. After removing the rear wheels, we had success with lowering the brake drums down onto large blocks of wood and firmly appling the parking brake. This plus the weight of the car on the wooden block held the brake drums in place while we removed and later replaced the castle nuts.
- Loosen the wheel lug bolts/nuts and raise the rear of the car and place it securely on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel lug bolts/nuts and remove the rear wheels.
- Back off the brake adjusting stars, then remove the brake drum from the splines in the rear wheel shaft. You now have the inner workings of the rear brakes exposed.
- Remove the rubber boot from the brake handle.
- Use two 10mm wrenches to loosen and remove the adjusting nuts on the top of the cable (two on each side). Hold the cable from turning with the screwdriver in the slot.
- Remove the compensating lever.
- Return to the rear of the car and disconnect the bolt that attaches the hand brake cable to the backing plate (on the rear of the backing plate).
Note: If you're replacing both cables, do one cable at a time so you'll have the other cable as a reassembly guide.
- Pull the rear end of the cable and cable guide and cable through the backing plate and pull the front end of the cabale out of the guide tube.
- Clean the cable and guide tube.
Note: on cars manfactured since August 1, 1966, the rear wheel track is wider. These models have longer hand brake cables. Compare the lengths of the new cable and the old cable to make sure you have the right replacement cable.
- Lubricate the cable with multi-purpose grease.
- Thread the front end of the cable through the guide tube and the rear end of the cable through the brake backing plate.
- Install the brake shoes and attach the hand brake cable to the lever on the rear shoe.
- Loosely install the cable adjusting nut and locknut at the hand brake lever.
- If you are replacing both cables, repeat the foregoing for the other cable.
- Reinstall the brake drum.Note: Since there are no bearing in the rear brake drums, installation is straightforward. Simply slip the new drum onto the splines in the rear wheel shaft. If you have The only problem you may encounter is getting the new drum over the new shoes. Back off the brake adjusting stars completely to provide clearance.
- Reinstall the wheels.
- Adjust the brakes according to the Brake adjustments procedure.
- Adjust the hand brake cable in accordance with the procedure above.
- Carefully lower the rear of the car to the ground.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this
solution and show your appreciation.
7/17/2010 10:45:04 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Jul 17, 2010
Unexplained loss of coolant
whenever you have an unexplained loss of coolant...and you positively know your not leaking from the hoses....your car is warning you of impending doom!
My old 89 Beretta had 280k miles on it when i noticed the low coolant light come on, so i topped it off and problem went away, i had no coolant line leaks and just attributed this to old age..i only had to top it off every two weeks, but after a year or so it started getting worse and it was like every week now, after 295k it started running rough and then it went away after driving it about two miles and then it started overheating badly, so i looked inside the radiator and half the coolant was gone, so i felt the upper radiator hose and it was cold, never got hot! it was a stuck thermostat! it was corroded shut! and then i let the car cool completely (took off the radiator cap) and watched it warm up and my worse nightmare was confirmed, bubbles coming out the top and overflowing...blown head gasket!....so my advice is never ever let your car overheat if you can help it, (everytime you do it stresses the gaskets).. and if it does, turn on the heater full blasts, and pull off to the side off the road and check to make sure your fan is working! ...i fixed the problem somewhat though, with "blue devil" gasket sealer, 500 miles after changing five plugs,and runs great, i just cant get the #2 plug out, because that is where the cracked head or gasket problem is. So whenever your car overheats badly or starts to overheat a lot, change out your plugs, and put some antiseize compound on them or you probably wont be able to get them out later when you need too! The old #2 plug only has 10k on it, so i"ll just leave it in, dont want to risk snapping it off!
Blue devil is a bandaid fix!...the correct way to fix your "low mileage" vehicle is to forkout the grand it will take to changeout the gaskets.
Rough idle/acceleration
In my last tip i made a slight mistake and mentioned to replace the hose on the MAF sensor errata! i meant to say MAP sensor, but still i would also like to add the MAF to the list of problems that can cause rough on acceleration...but it is only to be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.
Rough idle cars in general
if your car experiences erratic idle, you should first clean the IAC (idle air control), using throttle body cleaning... spray sensor and also check the hoses going to the MAF (mass air flow sensor), the hose might be cracked and brittle. Another tip: if your IAC was extremely dirty, then take some carb spray and clean the throttle body and plates thoughly. And if you truely want a great running car, and improved gas mileage, pull plugs wires one at a time and wipe down the wires and clean the coil towers also, take a wire brush and knock off the crime. I use a carb spary and get all that carbon tracking off the wires, and then replaced all plugs (with only standard heat range), for your vehicle. if you purchase those fancy iridiums and you try and gap them the expensive platinum tip will usually break and cannot be used ...just trash them and buy another $16 dollar plug if you want but i find that the $4 plugs work just as well but you just have to change them more often ...and if no gasket only tighten 1/16 of an inch turn and you should never have a problem geting them out next time.
How do I find a
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
- 12 volt test light
- self powered test light
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Step 1
Determine what type of short you are dealing with. There are three types of shorted circuits.
1. short to power
2. short to ground
3. short to another load circuit
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Step 2
I will use my 96 Pontiac Grand Am as the example, I had a ghost in my car. (or so I thought) The left front park lamp would glow anytime it wanted and just as mysteriously go back off. Find a wiring diagram and study it, find out where the connectors are for that circuit. Starting at the symptom circuit which was the left front park lamp, disconnect the bulb and check for power at the bulb. There is power when the lamp was on.
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Step 3
Find the next connector up the circuit, in my case it was next to the left fender. Disconnect the connector and check for power on the left park lamp circuit, there was none. I reconnected the connector and the lamp circuit was powered up again. This indicated a short to power between the lamp and the next connector.
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Step 4
I disconnected the connector at the left fender opening the circuit and stripped the tape from the outside of the wiring. Following the wiring from the connector toward the lamp I found a wire that had melted and shorted across several wires creating a short to power. I replaced all the damaged wires with new wires, soldered and taped for a water tight repair. The car has been working fine ever since!
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Step 5
The self powered test light is used to find shorts as well, you have to disconnect the wiring at both ends of the circuit and go from one wire to the next to see which wires are shorted together. The self powered test lamp will also find a short to ground, but make sure the load device is unhooked first.
4/8/2010 11:10:27 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Apr 08, 2010
Rebuilding getrag five speed out
I show that the front cover/housing must be removed with a special puller that fits over the case, do u have that. The reason is the bearings stick in the housing.
3/3/2010 11:56:32 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Mar 03, 2010
Rebuilding 5 speed Muncie out
muncie did not build a trans that was usded in this car, please verify transmission type, Gertag or Izusu 5 speed.
3/3/2010 8:48:14 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Mar 03, 2010
Need to know where to
hi, try to look for the relays under the hood, most likely theres a code/legend there what the relays are
2/18/2010 4:40:07 PM •
Chevrolet...
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Answered
on Feb 18, 2010
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