2004 Pontiac Montana - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. There is help and videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+montana+remove+throttle+body ..

try this link https://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto.com/how-to/replace-ignition-coil-chevy-venture-montana-423534/

Question edited for clarity. Part of duplicate question added. Duplicate question deleted. Question moved to model category. This says Pulse Board or the Switch https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Pontiac+Montana+front+wipers+won%27t+turn+off This says it does have a relay... but https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Pontiac+Montana+wiper+relay Nothing shows where it is located. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Pontiac+Montana+wiper+relay+location Relay here https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/wiper-motor-relay It may not be releasing, you can test if you can find it! https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/wiper-motor-relay ..

First, you can't and shouldn't test an alternator by disconnecting the battery cable while the engine is running. You run the risk of cooking the alternator and the computer. Thats how we used to test generators back in the last century.Is the check engine light on when the engine is running ? Is the battery charge warning light on ?There should be a fuseable link between the alternator and the battery that could keep the alternator from charging the battery.The ignition module would have no effect on the charging system.

I turned on the fan inside and closed everything up, went outside and poured soapy water around everywhere. I found bubbles at the mirrors and and the top of the windshield. Also a "Tech" told me that under the door rubber at the driver and passenger sides there is a piece of tape that is supposed to cover two assembly holes on either side but doesn't, so I caulked it and solved the leak that comes out the map lights. I also found that there was a crack in the sealer along the firewall to passenger inside fender allowing water to collect int the wiring channel causing the dreaded "lock" problem, which I had fixed by the dealer but they didn't fix the leak. The dealers and "Jet-set Execs"are the reason GM is hurting as their vans are OK. The fix was spraying RV Roof\Gutter sealant from the front after removing the wiper cover and spraying waaay in. Now I need to fix the one on the front that comes in above the passengers left foot and makes a spiders haven behind the centre cowl. Jim

I hope this helps. Take care.

On my 2001 van I can just reach under the rear of the seat and pull a metal bar back to release the seat while it's still upright. If you don't have a bar, feel around underneath for a wire that will pull the two release levers up.

Do the A/C pipes going in through the fire wall get cold ( icy) ? Temp blend dood actuator possibly .Does it have A/C system in the back as well ? Auxiliary - does it get cold ? Air Temperature Actuator The air temperature actuator is a 3 wire bi-directional electric motor. Ignition 3 voltage, ground and control circuits enable the actuator to operate. The control circuit uses a 0-12 volt linear-ramped signal to command the actuator movement. The 0 and 12 volt control values represent the opposite limits of the actuator range of motion. The values in between 0-12 volts correspond to the positions between the limits. When the HVAC control module sets a commanded, or targeted, value, the control signal is set to a value between 0-12 volts. The actuator shaft rotates until the commanded position is reached. The module will maintain the control value until a new commanded value is needed. Have you hooked up manifold gauge's to check pressures ?

faulty starter solenoid possibility, if it doesnt start give the starter a tap with a wrench if it starts after that change solenoid or replace starter.

Did you bleed the coolant lines to let all of the air out? If there's air in the lines, you will have the issues you're describing.

You may have a defective starter solenoid due to burned main battery contacts, very common on newer gear reduction starters.

Check fuel pressure at injector rail.

This may be related to the BCM (body control module) it can be self tested to see if any faults are present.

Make sure when you add coolant that the heater is turned on full blast and at the hottest setting. That will allow the thermostat to open and your cooling system to take more coolant.

It could be a bad fuel gauge in the dash unit, but.... Usually it's "The bad". The fuel level sending wipe arm and windings on the fuel sender wear and send erratic readings.The only cure is a replacement fuel gauge sender. The check engine light should not be related to the erratic fuel readings. "The good". If you have over 200,000kms or 120,000 miles on your van you need a new fuel pump anyway,so have a complete assembly put in which will have a new fuel sender on it.

good year are tire people trying to be mechanics take it to an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of vehicle have the new service center run the fault codes which is what goodyear should have done first up

Check crank and cam sensor.

First, could be defect alt, bad connection at battery conns. or you probably have an electrical short if all else cks out good. Did u ck the load test the bad,ck the charging system & ck for shorts before u did the work?

The horn itself may be faulty, disconnect it and use a voltmeter to see if the voltage changes on the wires feeding it when someone presses the horn button. Most horns are 12V so you should also be able to connect the horn directly to the battery to see if it works. Just get the polarity correct. The horn switch harness. (the switches and wiring in the steering wheel) Disconnect the negative battery connection before attempting to check this as the air bag is also in that area.

Check the fuses and relays in the underhood fuse compartment if the fuses related to suspension are good, most likely the compressor is bad