Top 10 2004 Pontiac Grand Am Questions & Answers

Is it the 3400 v6 or the 2.2l four cylinder? If it the v6 then what you have to do is first know where it is. It located on the end of your fuel rail on the driver side of the car. There will be a plastic hose coming off the top of the regulator, unplug it. You then have to undo your fuel line that runs into the bottom of the regulator. You have to use a wrench to get it off, not sure what size it is. Once you undo the fuel line the next step is to unbolt it from the fuel rail. There will be two screws that run in the side of the fuel pressure regulator that are facing the driver side of the car and are threaded in towards the passenger side of the car, just undo those two screws and the regulator should come off. Just repeat the process backwards to put it back on.

Check transmission fluid it sounds like the transmission is slipping You need to get it serviced asap fluid should be pink and smell sweet if brown or dark n smells burnt you may get away with a filter and fluid change and flush.

the rocker arm torque specs for the la1 gm 3400 sfi v6 is 168in lbs or 14ft lbs and 30degrees past that hope that helps you it came straight from my local dealer!

The low pressure port on the 2003 grand am is actually behind the engine, near the firewall on the passenger side. Good luck getting your hose down there though, I ended up buying an extension hose.

Unfortunately you are correct, this
vehicle has the PASSLOCK II key
based engine disabling system, and currently it
is engaged. The sensor does not recognize &
retain the passlock reader chip in your ignition
switch any longer.

A bypass is required to circumvent.
If left unchecked, it will lock down the fuel injector
rail (as it has now), and you will need to
tow it in to GM for evaluation, and resetting.
Eventuall, the 10 minute over ride will cease to
work and you will finally be forced to visit
a Pontiac/GM dealer.

But, if you want to just remove this system
from the equation entirelly,
I suggest the PLJX bypass kit to get around
this issue.

This Passlock Bypass Module is designed to momentarilly
allow the engine to remote start by sending a proper
coded pulse to open the fuel rail passlock injector
cut off circuit.

The output from an alarm/remote starter
would then shut down the pulse, once it has detected
the engine has engaged, and preserve the integrity
of the passlock system.

That is it's designed purpose.

However, in your case, this input wire on the PLJX module,
instead of going to a momentary ground pulse from
an alarm/remote starter,
would go to a constant chassis ground, through
the bypass module, grounding out the PASSLOCK.
The PASSLOCK would then always be bypassed as long
as that wire is chassis grounded.

I can not speak about a damaged passlock system,
like if a thief has destroyed it, because I do not
get into this part of GM'S security application.
Coincidence to installing
after market remote starters, this does work on bypassing
passlock in most all GM vehicles,
including your year GM vehicle as well.

Also, this is a self learning, resistor sensing
and adjusting module. Once the VATS wires have been tapped,
you would press the program button to learn,
and it does. The car should then allow start
with any hardware store key.

Hello! To check the fluid level, the first thing you want to do is get the fluid to operating temperature, by driving it for a bit and letting it shift through all gears. Once you've done that you need to make sure you park the car on a very level surface. Remove the front passenger wheel and the splash guard. From there reference the picture below to give you an idea where the fluid check plug is located - there is no dipstick on this transmission (4T45e). You will also see the fill plug location.


If you do a pan drop and filter replacement only, the fill capacity is 6.9 quarts. You will want to use Dexron III type transmission fluid.

FYI - here are the torque specs for the pan bolts is 106 in/lbs and the check/fill plugs are both 124 in/lbs.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Alero, Grand Am 1999-2005 Repair Guide
Starter - Removal & Installation

2.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Starter electrical connector Starter motor
   
   
   
   Fig. Starter mounting-2.2L engine
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Starter motor. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Starter electrical connectors Negative battery cable
   

3.1L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Starter motor. Torque the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm). Starter electrical connectors Negative battery cable
   

3.4L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Flywheel inspection cover Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

To install:
Install or connect the following:
Starter motor. Torque the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm). Starter electrical connectors Flywheel inspection cover. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Negative battery cable


I hope helps with this. Good luck (remember rated this help).

You will need to drain the antifreeze, remove the radiator hose that mounts to the housing at the top of the engine block. Remove with a plastic scraper any remains of the old gasket, dry the area well and replace the thermostat and gasket in the same position that the old one was sitting in. (Notice which way the spring is sitting.)

Do not over-tighten the bolts that hold the housing down since the housing is pot metal that will crack if overstressed - notice how much effort it took to get them loose. Replace the hose, refill the antifreeze and you're done. If you can afford it, replace the hoses while you are at it if they are more than 3 -4 years old. Let the car idle until it gets to normal operating temp and check for any leaks.

TRANSAXLE FLUID CHECKING PROCEDURE



The fluid level screw is intended to be used for diagnosing a transaxle fluid leak or resetting the transaxle fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Inspect
The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near Room temperature or at 40°C (104°F) .

CAUTION: Removal of the fluid level screw when the transaxle fluid is hot may cause injury. Use care to avoid contact of transaxle fluid to exhaust pipe.

The engine must be running when the transaxle fluid level screw is removed, or excessive fluid loss will occur. Since the actual fluid level is unknown, stand clear when removing the fluid level screw. Have a container ready to capture any lost fluid.

WARNING: Do not turn the engine off with the fluid level screw removed as you can be injured by hot transaxle fluid being expelled out of the fluid check hole.

1. Let vehicle idle for three to five minutes with accessories off.
2. Apply brake
3. Move shift lever through all gear ranges, pausing three seconds in each range.
4. Place shift lever in Park.

Important: Vehicle must be kept level on the hoist.

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Place oil container under fluid level screw.
3. Remove the fluid level screw with the engine running at idle.
4. Fluid level should be at the bottom of the fluid check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly over a range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the fluid check hole when the fluid level screw is removed. If fluid drains through the fluid check hole, this transaxle may have been overfilled. When fluid stops draining, the fluid level is correct and the fluid level screw may be installed. If fluid does not drain through the fluid check hole, the transaxle fluid level may be low. Proceed to ADDING TRANSAXLE FLUID.
5. Install fluid level screw.

Tighten 12 Nm (106 lb. in.)

1. Lower vehicle.
2. Shut off engine.

Adding Transaxle Fluid:

With the engine running, add fluid at the vent cap location in half liter (1 pint) increments until fluid drains through the fluid check hole. Allow the fluid to finish draining through the fluid check hole.

1. Install fluid level screw.

Tighten 12 Nm (106 lb. in.)

1. Lower vehicle.

usually any name brand such as pennzoil,havoline, or such. just be sure to use the same kind of brand when you do oil change.
it is not good to mix oil because some have different chemicals in it and could cause to break down faster.
10w-40w is a good one for warmer areas.10w-30w is good for winter areas. the last number is the thickness of the oil. they do make thicker and thinner weights. id use like 20w-50w if the car smokes a lot.
make sure the oil has the api sticker on it. some brands are so cheap(like from dollar store-no mame brands), just wasting your money.
make sure also the it has the 10w in front of the other you get; 10w40w..etc
they do make some like just 30w or 40w.
check ads at parts store to get a good deal on oil..lots of places like autozone and such, usually can get lot cheaper than places like walmart or dealerships or such.might want to stock up when you see a good sale for when gas goes up ..so will oil.
10w-40w havoline or pennzoil i recommend for your car.