20 Most Recent 2004 Pontiac Bonneville - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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the battery is located under the rear seat. grabfront of rear seat and put pressure toward rear of seat while lifting and seat should lift up and slide forward.

that is almost always because it is low on refrigerant, and can be verified with manifold gauges that you can buy at any good parts store for less than $50-why it is low is another problem, but your system has a low pressure cut-off switch to protect the compressor.

Water on the floor board in the back seat is usually caused by a leaking rear window, or leaking back glass...you will need to remove the inner rear door panels to confirm the exact leak...(as long as it is warm enough:) after removing the door panels...you can ask a friend to help...run water from a garden hose over the outside, and continue until you see the location of where the water is coming from...if the rubber seals on the top or bottom of the doors are bad...this certainly allows the rain (water) to come inside...Nice Car and worth fixing...:)

Pull off interior door panel.disconnect wires at motor.jump power to 1 terminal and ground to the other on the motor if it does not go up try reversing your power and ground.If this does not work try to tap the motor as a brush may be shorting.Be careful as not to hold your leads with out gloves as there is alot of amperage and it will heat up your leads and may BURN you.

Sorry for late reply, but may help someone...
Remove the ignition ring by carefully pulling it straight out


Remove the 2 pin clips above the speedo but pushing the center button of the clips IN. After you get them out, you can reset them by pushing ther buttons OUT.

I'm pretty sure that the panel can then be removed by pulling it straight out against the remaining spring clips.

I have a 2005 Bonneville GXP. I would expect yours to be the same as mine.
My battery is located under the rear seat.
Pull the fron of the seat straight up. There are two clips holding it.
Underneath you'll see the battery and a fuse block.
The cable and holddown clamp is pretty obvious.
Make sure you get the right size battery.
Also loosen the ground strap and inspect for corrosion and retighten.

More than likely the gages are not the problem and are just responding to faulty sending units on the engine and the in the fuel tank, gage problems are not selective, that is to say that if there is a problem with the gages it will be all the gages not just one or two of them.

The fuel level gage problem will require you drop the fuel tank down out of the car and replace the fuel gage sending unit, to do this you must raise the car up and support it on safety jack stands, disconnect the fuel tank filler pipe and remove the 2 bolts that retain the steel straps that hold the fuel tank into the undercarriage (support the tank with a floor jack at this point) of the car, at home an assistant is almost mandatory, once the straps are off drop the tank down and reach onto the top of the fuel tank and disconnect the electrical connector to the tank and the fuel lines (pressure line, fuel return and vapor lines), a special fuel line release tool is required to remove the outlet and inlet fuel lines to the tank (availiable from Napa auto parts and others), once you have it down remove the ring that holds the sending unit into the fuel tank and remove the fuel tank module that contains the fuel gage sending unit, reverse to put back together.

Now on to the oil pressure gage issue, if the problem is that the gage shows low pressure or no pressure before you do anyhting have the oil pressure of the engine tested, the sender is located on both engines near the oil filter (of course once again the car must be jacked up to access the sending unit for oil pressure gage), remove the sending unit and hook up a oil pressure test gage, the pressure should be at least 55- 60 PSI at 1500 RPM, if it is ok replace the oil pressure sending unit

Tech 1-- was to be made by Vetronics in Calif, makers of the Mastertech ,now owned by Bosch,and now almost absolete.

I don't know where you have been for the last 30 years,but every repair shop has a scanner, and now almost every tech has one of their own.

Also, why would you be at a dealer, after the warrantee ran out ,just to spend more than you have to?

You go to any shop,check the codes and then follow a diagnostic process, to find the issue and repair, don't need Tech 1 or 11,just current software

Having had this problem before with other GM vehicle, I am pretty sure that your problem is the multi functional switch in the steering column.

Hi

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this may be due to a few things, it may be a bad blend door actuator, this is the motor that turns the door to give hot or cold air, the next thing is maybe compressor connection is loose or the system is low on gas. start the car and see if the compressor clutch kicks in then if it does try turning the temp control to hot then cold and see if that works maybe the blend door is stuck,

did you put wagner pads with built in shims, or another brand that has separate shims for the back of the pads?

Check for the fuse to be blown,and check the blower relay,it could be bad,and of course the fan switch connector could be burned,and not connecting.If this was helpful please rate,thank, you