Find yourself another 98 Pontiac sunfire somewhere, and ask the owner to let you see the mechanism, so you can repair it.
You might be crawling inside the trunk and unscrewing the latch or lock in there to release it, and then finding a used pull lever somewhere, or make one from scratch.
God bless your efforts.
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http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Free wiring diagrams . Enter the vehicle info. Year , Make , Model and Engine size . Under system click on engine then under subsystem click on charging .Click the search button then the blue link . Scroll down to second diagram .
Security light lit on the instrument cluster ? It should have anti-theft system . No , can't just remove it . It has componets - key lock cylinder housing , software programmed into control modules etc... If you just removed or disconnected the pass lock sensor the pcm -engine computer would not see a coded message ,so it would disable fuel injectors an maybe starter . Your best bet ,have a qualified repair shop diagnose it .
The larger terminal goes straight to the battery. It looks like it does have a battery cable on it though. The smaller terminal bolt appears to have no wire on it. This is the one that switches on the starter. It should go to a solenoid or electronic box. But there has to be a wire on it going to the ignition system.
Dirty throttle body . Does it run good when you step on the gas pedal ? driving down the road . Don't guess , do fuel pressure testing . Videos on youtube showing how , fuel pressure tester under $30 most part stores .
What are you going by to say it's overheating , temp gauge ? Have you test to see what the actual temp. is > Hook - up a scan tool ,what's the PCM - engine computer seeing for engine temp. ? 223 degress the PCM should turn on the cooling fan . You could buy a
Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer With Laser Targeting at harbor freight ! Radiator very hot ????? What is the right temp .
Non Contact Infrared Thermometer With Laser Targeting
Could be a bad temp gauge . Is the coolant surging inside the cooling system ? Does it have a radiator cap ? Have you replaced it ?
If i were you i wouldn't worry about the second relay too much .because there is only one , the DRL relay !Guessing never fix's automotive electrical problems ! Testing is the name of the game , with the aid of wiring diagrams an reading an understanding how the electrical circuits work . An learning how to diagnose correctly .
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsHow to Use Multimeter to Troubleshoot Common Problems YouTubeThe Trainer 29 Understanding How Electrical CIrcuits Work and How to Test...
The instrument cluster controls the headlamp systems that include daytime running lamps (DRL). The system allows the headlamps to operate at a reduced intensity when all of the following conditions apply:
• The engine is running.
• The transaxle is not in the PARK position.
• The normal headlamps are not on.
The instrument cluster turns the DRL system on by grounding CKT 592, thereby energizing the DRL relay. This action allows a reduced voltage of 6 volts to flow across the headlamps. If the vehicle has the optional fog lamps, the fog lamp relay will also be energized. The park lamps will turn on and the fog lamps will operate normally. When the headlamp switch is turned to the ON position, the instrument cluster allows normal headlamp operation.
The instrument cluster also has an input from the park brake. If the park brake is in the ON position, the DRL will remain disabled until the park brake is placed in the OFF position. On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, the instrument cluster will disable the DRL until the transaxle has been taken out of the PARK position.
Headlamps
A rocker type switch is located on the left side of the instrument panel (IP). The rocker type switch controls the headlamps. One switch position turns on the following lamps:
• The parking lamps
• The side marker lamps
• The taillamps
• The license plate lamp
• The IP lamps
• The interior lamps
The second switch position turns on the headlamps in addition to all of the above lamps.
An IP lamp dimmer control is provided in order to vary the intensity of the IP lamps. Turn the control past the full bright detent in order to turn on the courtesy lamps.
The under hood lamp is designed to turn on under the following conditions:
• When the hood is raised
• When the parking or headlamp switch is on
You probably have a open circuit in the wiring for the passanger high beam .
Your best bet would be to have a qualified repair shop check it out . May have a broken wire somewhere in the wiring harness .
It's probably the switch , but testing to know for sure is alwasy a good idea .
Headlamps Inoperative - High Beams
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No
1
Did you perform the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) System Check?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Daytime Running Lights (DRL) System Check
2
Disconnect the turn/hazard headlamp switch connector C1.
Connect a fused jumper between terminal B of the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly harness connector C1 and ground.
Do the high beam headlamps operate?
--
YES - Go to Step 3
NO - Go to Step 4
3
Replace the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Daytime Running Lights (DRL) System Check
--
4
Repair the open in CKT 1200 between the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the repair?
Daytime Running Lights (DRL) System Check
Step
Action
Normal Result(s)
Abnormal Result(s)*
1
Turn the headlamp switch to the HEAD position.
Turn the headlamp dimmer switch to the LOW position.
The low beam headlamps are ON.
The high beam headlamps are OFF.
Headlamps Inoperative - Low Beams
2
Turn the headlamp switch to the HIGH position.
The high beam headlamps are ON.
The high beam indicator is ON.
The low beam headlamps are OFF.
Headlamps Inoperative - High Beams
3
Turn the headlamp switch OFF.
Turn the ignition to ON.
Disengage the parking brake.
The high beam headlamps come ON at a reduced intensity in approximately 30 seconds.
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Inoperative, Headlamp Switch Operates Normally
* Refer to the appropriate symptom diagnostic table for the applicable abnormal result.
Try changing temperature sending unit sometimes its located in radiator . Just below radiator cap you will see wires.check connections on fan. check selenoid in electrical panals understand hood grey or black relays. Cover will say fan one fan 2 . if not that try changing
your thermostat check fluids. warm car up an open blender screw on thermostat housing. Tighten when all air is bled out.
you need to remove the complete dial display to access the individual bulbs at the back to do that all dash trim around the dial display must be carefully removed to expose the screws to get the display out be careful when getting it out the dash the display loom must still be unplugged usually the length of the loom is just enough to get ur hand in to unplug
My sister's and my brothers GM hardtops both leaked like yours is doing.
My sister got hers fixed, my brother opted not to do so.
The leaks turned out to be body leaks from the factory from water running in body openings at the windows and body joints.
I believe my sister had to have the fenders pulled off to fix it.
God bless your efforts.
Sounds like you have a cold solder joint somewhere in the dash assembly. My suggestion is to find a website that specializes in GM self repair, likely a known issue that has a simple fix but if you find someone who has already solved that problem will save you a bunch of troubleshooting.
