20 Most Recent
1998 Nissan Sentra - Page 7 Questions & Answers
I am trying to put
The R134A connection hose will only fit on the low side service port. The high side port is bigger and will not fit that hose.
How to replace the brake master cilinder
Remove the lines running to it, and then unbolt it from whatever surface it's mounted to.
You will need to BENCH BLEED your NEW MASTER CYLINDER.
This can be done by taking some rubber hose and putting it from the holes for the lines, back into he reservoir on the new master cylinder. Make sure the new master cylinder is full of fluid. Put the master cylinder in a bench vice, and press in the plunger repeatedly with a screwdriver until no more air bubbles come out.
Then put the new master cylinder back to the mounting surface, and reattach the lines. Bleed the entire brake system.
98 sentra starts and runs
It is probably a carberator problem your intaking to much fuel or oxygen So what i would do is check the little buble in the the carberator that stops the fuel when enough fuel is in the carborator it might need replacing
Well my sentra has about 122k on it. When I drive
the MAF sensor wold make since there is a small wire inside of your intake that is the MAF sensor if it gets a lot of dust or anything on it it could make your car run like that.you can find the sensor by finding the plug and weirs sticking out of your intake tube. if you take it apart and clean the wire you could see results.
Well my sentra has about
Both could be right.there are a couple of different models of this released around the world.If this has the air flow system that looks like a carburettor and has a rectangular air filter directly on top.These were a common fault,and used to stall also.They either had a dry joint on the board inside the side cover or the hot wire got dirty and could be cleaned with a suitable meter cleaner,dont be tempted to use anything else.This would usually restore most,others had to be repaired.the remote MAF could be cleaned also.Changing the fuel filter is a good precaution.these if blocked usually only cause a power loss and not the jerking.Check inside the distributor because the oil seal used to fail in them and they would fill with oil.(only the model that fitted to the camshaft and lay on its side).I hope this helps you,or get back with your findings from this so far.
Where is the fuse that
THE FUSEBOX IS USUALLY LOCATED UNDER THE DASH, ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE CAR! SOME ARE LOCATED IN THE GLOVEBOX! CHECK THOSE TWO PLACES FIRST! SOME ARE MARKED AS TO WHAT FUSE IT GOES TO, SOME AREN'T! GOOD IDEA IS TO GET A FUSE ASSORTMENT WITH A TESTER, AND CHECK ALL THE FUSES WHILE YOU'RE THERE!
Where is the fuel pump
it is located under the back seat it will only take about 30 min as long as u leave the doors open cause the gas smell..
In all types of of
the noise could be a couple if things, the first thing for you to check would be the the wiper blades, make sure they are tight were they mount to the wiper arms, if they are loose the wipers will make a clunk noise at the end of each end of there sweep just as the wipers start to change direction, if the wiper blades are tight in there mounts then you will need to remove the valance over the wiper linkage and take a good look at the wiper motor mounts make sure they are tight, if the motor mounts are tight then take a good look at the wiper linkage pivot points to make sure their is no play in the bushings we have seen a few of these wear out over the years and when they do the wipers are noisy and out of time ( one wiper gets to the end of its sweep before the other ) if the mounts and linkage look good then suspect that the noise is just wear in the wiper motor it's self lets face it the car is 13 years old. if all looks good then replace the motor assembly. by the way if the linkage bushings are worn they are not replaceable you will have to replace the hole linkage assembly.....GOOD LUCK
Finding the starter
The starting motor on all vehicles is located wright where the engine meets the transmission thats where the flywheel is and thats what the starter turns to make the engine turn . It can be on eighter side of the engine and usely right above the oil pan You can follow the main red wire the biggest one and it will lead you to it. If the engine is inline its usely not that diffecilt to get at. How ever sometimes if the engine is inverted in side ways it may be some more work to replace because front end parts can be in the way
I have a P1446 Mfr Controlled Aux Emiss Cntrls
vent control valve on evap canister is stuck closed or outlet hose from valve is clogged preventing pressure in tank from venting during fill up and difficulty refueling.if it is valve and mounting screws arent seized....about$200.
I need to know what the diagnostic code PO1448
Well it's not a p0 code which indicates a generic trouble code, this is a code p1448 which is a manufacturers specific code, and your stands for a bad manufacturer controlled auxiliary emissions controlled component. Try checking your charcoal canister which filters fuel vapors from your gas tank, there is an evap vent control valve which can get stuck in position. You can replace that valve or try cleaning it with some carb cleaner and then using a small screwdriver to free the plunger up. Your check engine light will go off after a couple drive cycles without a fault or you can reset it iwth a code scanner.
Not finding what you are looking for?