20 Most Recent
1993 Nissan Quest Questions & Answers
Can you tell us the torque settings for a nissan
head bolts about 70lbs ,big end bolts use locktight and about 40lbs mains about 60 ,sorry if i am not very specific but you see i never use a torque wrench ,i sort of feel the stretch on the bolts threads ,
Brake lights stay on
Hello. Under your brake pedal is a switch with a plunger on, that activates your lights when depressed. Just follow up along the pedal and you will see (probably) a white switch. It sounds like the plunger switch is stuck in. These are quite cheap to replace and you might be able to prise the plunger switch out to turn the brake lights off
I have a Nissan RB30 engine - blown head gasket
the engine procedure will be found in the workshop manual for the nissan vehicle that uses that engine so nay nissan manual will be ok for the engine
taking that it is a v6 engine , problems he will encounter will be mating it to the transmission but that can be overcome by using a suitable transmission
as it is a v6 ( assumption ) and commodores run v 6 engines as oem equipment there will be no compliance problems for the engine swap ( regardless if it is not a v6 , engine for engine configuration is allowed but v8 for straight 6 or 4 or v6 comes in question )
however as to adding a turbo to the engine , that will only require an engineering ,modification plate to be attached to the vehicle and most speed shops have access to that inspection data
It will be best if a full overhaul is done on th engine as water in the sump is not always head gasket but corrosion holes behind the water pump impeller or leaking head studs threads that go into the water jackets
Died going down the road
fuel pumps are bad for going out on these.. does the fuel pump buzz when the key is in the ON position? but dont try starting it, you're just listening for the fuel pump to buzz...
CV axle repair
this is not too difucult if you have the tools and time. just uncomfortable because you will have to lay under the vehicle for part of it. start by removing the hubcap and in the center of the wheel you will find a large nut possibly with a cotter pin thru it. remove the pin and nut. the nut is large and usually tight so if you can do this you will probably make it thru the rest. next raise the front of the van, support it solidly on jackstands and remove the wheel. below the brake there is a nut with a cotter pin holding the lower ball joint to the control arm. remove them then use a ball joint seperator (pickle fork) and a very large hammer to seperate the ball joint. about half way up the back of the brake on the back is another nut and pin that hold the tie rod to the steering knuckle. remove the pin, nut and use the pickle fork again. now you should be able to pull the brake away from the van far enough to slide the axle out of the brake assembly. you may have to hit the end of the axle with a large hammer to free it from the brake. if reusing the axle place some wood over the end of the axle to save the threads. now use a large prybar and place the tip between the inner cv joint and the transmission and pry quick and hard to pull the axle out. use a drip pan under the transmission because some oil may come out. to install the new one push the new axle into the transmission and with a board over the outer end of the axle hit it streight in to seat the snap ring then assemble everything you took apart making sure all the nuts are as tight as you can get them.
Got new brakes and rotors & after 30-40 mi. of driving it stinks bad and by home, it was smoking. Help
One or both of the brake callpers are not releasing when you release pressure on the brake pedal so you have continued contact between the brake pads and the brake rotor. This will overheat the brake pads and rotors and produce a burning smell and smoke.
If your brakes were working fine before the people you used to fit the new pads and rotors got hold of your car then the most likely cause will be faulty installation. For example if the inner and outer brake pads have been reversed when fitted in the brake caliper this will cause your brakes to bind up as you have described. If the brake caliper slides have not been properly lubricated with the correct product (or not lubricated at all) the calipers can bind up and hold the pads on the brake rotor.
In your case I would suspect the new brake pads have probably been reversed during installation and that is what I would be looking at first. But there are other possibilities that may also need to be checked.
You can take the vehicle back to whoever did the sloppy work and get them to fix it or take it to a competent mechanic very close to home who can check over the installation work. (Those that did the work should have road tested the car before giving it back to you and binding brakes should have been noticed if they were half competent). You don't want to be driving far when your brakes are like this.
2. Your brakes can also bind up as you have described if there is a blockage in one or both of the flexible brake hoses connected to the brake caliper. Usually you won't get two at once though. When this happens the blockage in the line will not allow the brake fluid to flow back up the lines when you release the brakes (and there is no pressure pushing it back) so the brake pads will not release from the brake rotor. The flexible brake lines need to be replaced every 7 -8 years or so as they deteriorate badly from the inside but outside they may look just fine. If one or more of your flexible brake lines were bad before you replaced the brake pads and rotors then fitting the new pads and rotors will really show up the problem.
3. You can also have a brake binding problem if the piston in one or more of your brake calipers is corroded and will not retract back into the bore when brake pressure is released. The piston or pistons in the calipers press on the back of the brake pad unit and force the pad onto the brake rotor. If the pistons are corroded (which will often be the case in old calipers) they can bind up in the caliper bore and not retract back into the bore when the brake pressure is released. If you had this problem before the new pads and rotors were fitted the problem will show up much more now that new pads have been fitted. It is a simple task to check if any of the pistons in any of the brake calipers in your car are binding up and not retracting as it is any of the installation work that has been done.
Some businesses will do very sloppy brake work and not check that everything is freely moving correctly when the brake pedal is applied and released as you need to when replacing brake pads.
Starting at 65 mph steering wheel shakes. 4 new
could have bent rim,,even thow,,balance was done,,depends on how mush weight was used to balance?? rotate tires from frt to rear,,see if problem still exits,,ck bearing play,,hoped it helped
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