Top 10 1991 Nissan Pickup Questions & Answers

Clyde,

I've been troubleshooting this same problem on a different vehicle this week, and I can give you the steps I'd take.

1. If both sides went out at the same time, the problem is *NOT* likely to be the bulbs.

2. Check the fuses to see if both low beam lights are on the same fuse. Many cars have one fuse for low beam and another for high beam, so both lights out at the same time typically means fuse blown.

3. If the headlights are OK and the fuses are OK, then the problem is *LIKELY* the headlight switch. In my case, AutoZone has one and it can be installed easily; but in your case, that may not be as simple.

Please post your findings or comments.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018d02c

The speed sensor is located on the transmission towards the tail shaft. The housing that encloses the cable will attach on the side of the tranny. At this connection you will find the speed sensor right where it attaches to the tranny. There will be a couple of wires attached to the speed sensor.

I get files from www.pdftown.com I have been able to download manuals for several of my cars there. Hope this helps...

It sounds like the float on the sending unit is sinking. Don't know what the float is made of, but over time, it will soak up gas and start to get heavy. This would cause your problem. I don't think it's the gauge, but if you want to test it, disconnect the wires at the tank. The gauge will either go to full or empty. If you ground the sending wire, the gauge should respond the opposite way it was. good luck

Take the engine belts off one at a time and start the engine if the noise goes away then you can isolate the problem by what the belt turns and after the belts are off and your noise is still there you may have an internal problem with your engine

replace the bearing or wheel hub assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2wd Models NOTE: Refer to wheel bearing service and bearing preload adjustment procedures found in Section 1.

1. Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
3. Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
4. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
5. Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing. To install:
   
6. Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
7. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
8. Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
9. Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
10. Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
11. Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
12. Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
13. Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
14. Install the wheels and lower the truck.

4wd Models The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled. BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT

1. Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
2. Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
3. Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
4. Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
5. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
6. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
7. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm). Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
   Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
   Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
   Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
   Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
   
   
8. Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
9. Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
10. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
11. If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload. NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
    

I did not find the instructions for a 2.9 L engine per se, but the following should be good for many American models of the 1991 Nissan d21 Pickup truck: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery, then disconnect the positive battery cable at the starter. Fig. 1: Starter removal on 4WD - 6-cylinder engine
   Fig. 2: Starter removal on 2WD - 6-cylinder engine
   
   
2. On 4wd models with the 6-cylinder engine:
   1. Remove the front gravel shield.
   2. Detach the oil pressure switch connector.
   3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. CAUTION
      The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
      
   4. Remove the exhaust manifold heat insulator.
   5. Remove the fuel tube retainer bolt.
3. On 2wd models with the 6-cylinder engine:
   1. Remove the front right wheel.
   2. Remove the front gravel shield.
   3. Remove the exhaust manifold heat insulator.
   4. Remove the exhaust manifold.
   5. Detach the oil pressure switch connector.
4. Unfasten the remaining electrical connections at the starter solenoid.
5. Remove the two nuts holding the starter to the bell housing, then pull the starter toward the front of the vehicle and out. To install:
   
6. Insert the starter into the bell housing, being sure that the starter drive is not jammed against the flywheel.
7. Tighten the attaching nuts and secure all electrical connections to the starter assembly.
8. Install all remaining components in reverse order of removal.
9. Reconnect the battery cables. If applicable, refill and check the oil level. Check the starter assembly for proper operation.

Can someone email this diagram to me I need it as well. We have a 1991 Nissan Hardbody we are putting back in today.

I have the same problem few days ago and found my solution on Fixya Expert Sources website. Here you will get all the top sources of your problem. All the sources of this site provided by top Fixya Gurus. Have a good look at the sources of the page. Go through the sources to find your solution. Hope it will help.


View Count:3