20 Most Recent 1987 Nissan 300ZX - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you either need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder, or you need to rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. You might want to check with the shop that replaced the clutch and rebuilt the transmission. It may be covered under their warrantee.

Order one from www.courtesyparts.com (Courtesy Nissan in TX) - they were great for all the years I had my 90 300ZX.

The metal clamp is supposed to "go-down" the new pads. The metal-clamp must hold the new pads like bread and cheese. The pads (metal clamp) being the bread; the rotor-cheese.
You will have to use a flat-end screw-driver or similar tool to push apart the caliper pistons. Then push down the metal clamp to grip both sides of the rotor.

there is a cord running along where the spare tire goes...when i get gas i open the trunk and pull that cord it opens right up.and if i took the time to follow it and straighten it out it would open from the inside...hope this helps you...

replace cam shaft sensor

Its the connection to the power supply module that is connected to the intrument panel. Its about the size of a cigar box and is silver and is left of the stereo. you will need to remove the panel under the steering colum to access it. wiggle the harness that goes from the inatrument panel to this power supply module until you instrument panel works again. i don't have a permanent soution except to buy a new panel. I am dealing with the same problem.

Check your fusebox. Very likely you have a blown fuse, or fuses. Bulbs don't generally go out all at once.

could be a vacume leak. thats what it sounds like. or timing is off, but that "should"show up on a computer. vacume leak wont tho.

if you have just instaled a new clutch you need to make sure the clutch disk has not ben instaled back wards and all the bolts holding the pressure plate are torqued evenly if eather is not corect the slave cyl will extend but not relace the clutch, if you have some one step on the clutch and it moves 1 to 2 in the problem is in the pressure plate or clutch disk,

1. first you must take off the wheels.
2. Now remove the caliper and then slide off the rotor.
3. remove the cotter pin on the hub and the lock collar then with a impact remove the 36mm nut on the shaft.
4. there are 4 bolts on the rear of the hub. rotate the axles so that you can remove them.
5. once these are removed, grab the spindle and shake it loose off the splines.
6. the tuff part is pressing the bearings off the spindle. I used a hydralic press to do it. the only pain was that the inside race of the bearing wouldnt come off so I had to cut it off.
7. now press it all back together. make sure it is all the way to the stop of the spindle.
8. reinstall it back to the hub, those 4 bolts, not forgetting to clean off splines.
9. Now the spindle nut must be torqued down to at least 206 ftlbs and no more than 276 ftlbs. after that is down add the lock collar and install a NEW cotter pin.
10. reinstall rotor and caliper and wheel.
hope it helps-

The black smoke is over fueling probably just comming from giving it a little gas. A good service should bring it back to normal

Don't go by the owners manual, if the car has bad emmisions, it will carbon up the sensor sooner, put a new sensor on it, and if the light is still on, to reset it------- disconnect the positive battery cable for about 10 to 15 seconds, then reconnect it

I had a similar problem. I replaced my vacuum hoses and it fixed the problem. If any one of the vacuum hoses has a hole in it or is connected wrong your 300zx will automatically start blowing hot air and you will not be able to use your temp. control switches.

nissan's have lighting problems on clusters and ac controllers. remove cluster and take it apart, replace bulbs, you can get them from radio shack. its an diy fix, will take about 1 and a half hours and will cost about 10 bucks at most!

jdmbaker: There are a few areas I would suggest looking in.
First, I would be looking for a false air problem. This is a condition where you have un-metered air getting into the engine. A torn airflow meter boot, or large vacuum leak such as a split pcv hose.
Second, your injector pulse width is primarily dependent on the coolant temperature sensor. This component is located at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing. The sensor gives the ECM resistance values based on the temperature of the coolant. If the sensor fails, usually, they have a tendency to create a lean condition. This shortens the pulse width of the injectors which essentially starves the engine for fuel. One way you can perform a quick test for a lean condition, is to pinch off the return hose for the fuel going to the tank. If you look at the fuel hoses, they run right next to each other. You have one which comes from the fuel filter. That is the feed line. Pinch the other hose. This will boost the fuel pressure causing more fuel to be sprayed out of the injectors.With the hose pinched, hit the throttle, if the engine will rev up, you persue the lean condition theory.
Third. Check for a weak spark. A severely worn cap and rotor or bad plug wires can cause a hesitation and stalling problem if they are bad enough.
Fourth. The air flow meter could be faulty. This is a very common symptom matching you description.
Odds are that one of these are the solution. Good luck and let me know how you do.

Sounds like throttle A/C cutoff. Check at what point A/C stops. Full throttle, 3/4, half, etc,... You can disable the throttle A/C cutoff. This is designed for increased performance. Check manual for your cars setup.

The starter has a thing called a starter drive. It operates with a over running clutch that is a safety that keeps it from over speeding when still engaged with a started engine. That drive needs replaced, the clutch is bad.

Check fluid level.If ok and the belt is tight change the steering pump