20 Most Recent 1989 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 500 Class Questions & Answers

https://www.carstereocode.com/unlock.php?mk=26

at rear of engine ,flywheel 5mm allen key or 10mm socket

Yes, you can install standard shocks, like
http://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-Shock-1985-MERCEDES-B46-1184/dp/B0007M3VW0

Suggest replacing motor mounts. Huge failure probablility at your age of MB.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpcrnlrZ41k

Check the video in the above link and see if it is helpful for you...

Not familiar with your Merc. This is general info. My porsche has a mecanical belt tensioner down low under the engine off the ground. Toyota has a spring charged piston pushing a belt tensioner wheel. Most other cars I've worked on had a pivoting alternator. If your car has a flat serpentive belt then it probaly has a spring loaded tensioner. If it has Vee belts then something sets the tension mechanically at install. Good luck!

Suspected vacuum leak on intake, Or MAF sensor acting up up if throttle body injection.

There should be a fuse chart in the trunk of the vehicle where the tools are. Lift up the carpet in the trunk to expose the tools. It should be all folded up and stuffed in with the tool to remove the lug bolts. The chart will show the fuse and fuse box locations.

For 1984 Mercedes Benz 500SEC 5.0L FI 8cyl I find this...




Fig. 14: Emission hose routing and components 1984 V8 models


Hope helps.

Cooling fans will run after the engine is shut down. The coolant doesn't. This would be a faulty coolant sensor, PCM, or a fan relay that is sticking. You can swap relays and see if it is that. After that, it needs to be to a scanner to read the temps and PCM. If want to take a chance, you could replace the coolant sensor. I can't tell you where it is as I work on to many types of vehicles.

Neutral safety switch, if it starts in neutral.

The easiest fix is to hook up a scanner on the suspension test plug. This will give you a test to each sensor. Some models may even record a history of performance.Underneath the car, someone can use soapy water and spray the air lines and suspension bags to test for leaks. There are venting solenoids on each wheel to level the car and a Master solenoid called a "dump" valve to release all of the air The system is tied into the doorjam and trunklid switches which must be closed to allow the system to work. Escaping air should be easy enough to find.

Sounds like you have too much fuel going to the injectors. Your car has a CIS fuel injection system that relies on mechanical inputs do decide how much fuel to send to each injector. One of two things has likely happened. Either the plunger in the bottom of the fuel distributor is stuck up, or the diaphragm in the fuel distributor is broken. The first is easy enough to check if you can get the fuel distributor(the aluminum block on top of the engine with all of the fuel lines coming out of it) out. The plunger comes out of the bottom center. You should be able to push it in and watch is slowly spring back out. If not it needs to be removed and cleaned, but that's not just a straightforward job. Look online for videos on fuel distributor repair to decide if you want to tackle this. Diaphragm failure is harder to diagnose. If you get there it might be best to look for a rebuilt fuel distributor. A third possibility is that the fuel return line from the fuel distributor back to the tank is clogged, you should be able to easily push air through the line into the tank after you remove the fuel filler cap. Good Luck.

go to each corner of the car. push the car down and up a couple of times to try to get it going up and down as best you can then let go. The car should return to normal in one movement not bounce up and down. Shocks may be expensive but besides a more comfortable ride they are a safety feature because they keep your wheels on the ground. Bad shocks let your car bounce - if you hit your breaks the car will bounce and on the up bounce the wheels can skid and it takes longer to stop.