20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Malibu - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you have a harness disconnected somewhere. I've done problem 15 intake sets on 3100 3300 3800 look real good for an unplugged connection , use flashlight.

probable vacuum leak if no engine lite on, if engine lite on have code read and go from there. don't forget to press helpful button

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the HVAC module assembly. Refer to HVAC Module Assembly Replacement .
2. Remove the heater core case cover.
3. Remove the heater core bracket and screw.
4. Remove the heater core.

Removal Procedure

Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .

1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling in Engine Cooling.
2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Remove the evaporator hose from the evaporator. Refer to Air Conditioning Evaporator Hose Assembly Replacement .
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the heater hoses from the heater core. Refer to Heater Hoses Replacement .
6. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
7. Remove the drain tube elbow from the evaporator block heater case plate.

Remove the nuts holding the heater case plate for the heater pipes. Remove the heater case plate and the seals for the heater pipes. Remove the nuts holding the heater case plate for the evaporator block. Remove the heater case plate and seal for the evaporator block. Remove the nut for the HVAC module assembly bracket. Lower the vehicle. Remove the instrument panel (IP) carrier. Refer to Instrument Panel Carrier Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gauges, and Console. Remove the cross vehicle beam (tie bar). Remove the floor air duct from the HVAC module. Refer to Floor Air Outlet Replacement . Remove the air distribution duct. Refer to Air Distributor Duct Replacement . Remove the daytime running lights (DRL) sensor wiring harness clip (1) from the HVAC module assembly. Disconnect the IP lamp dimmer switch electrical connector (2). Remove the wiring harness clips (3) from the HVAC module assembly bracket. Disconnect the vacuum source hose (4) from the vacuum tank. If you have never done this before I suggest you take it to a ASE certified repair shop or the dealer .

Did you line up the timing marks before taking of the head and made sure that they were the same when reassembled Water in the exhaust take out spark plugs and fill up cooling system and crank engine to see if water shoots out the holes if so Liners need to be checked for cracks or you have a twisted head which may need skimming or replacement Most overheated motors need a major strip and rebuild as we need to be very lucky to get away with a gasket replacement only and not rip all the bearings in the motor to pieces and piston rings

If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, check for fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes?

Hi Jose. Starting with the most likely culprits:

• Starting/Running needs four things.
  • Fuel
  • Air
  • Spark
  • Compression
  • Ok, and an initial push from the starter.
• Any of these things being off-optimal can leave you in a jam.
• For Fuel:
  • A clogged or dirty fuel filter can keep the engine from getting enough gas. If it's been a long time since the fuel filter has been changed, putting in a new one is usually easy, and a good general idea.
  • If the fuel pump isn't working, (or if the gas cut-off switch has somehow been triggered), then no fuel will be pumped at all. Check the fuse for the fuel pump. Look up where the fuel cut off switch is for your Malibu, and see if it needs to be re-set (usually a push of a button)
  • If you fuel injectors are clogged, no fuel gets to the cylinders, or it's not sprayed into an easily burnable mist. If you can get the car running at all, you can dump a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank and run it for a while. Over the counter brands will usually take a while, and several rounds, to make much of a difference. Mechanics have access to more powerful chemicals and equipment to tackle this if it's necessary to go further.
  • You could have gotten a tank of bad gas. If so, trying to siphon the gas out, store or dispose of it, and re-fill and run may be a chore. You can also try dumping a bottle of Octane Boost in to see if the extra energy density in the gas makes a difference.
  • Inlet valves could be out of whack. Whether it's mechanical cam or electronically run, that could indicate something really painful like a broken timing belt, so you'd definitely want to think about whether you'd want to DIY on something like that.
• For Air
  • First place to look is the Air Filter. Is it clogged or dirty. Fouled with a big mass of leaves you drove through. If the filter is nastyness, replace it, or at least bang it out thoroughly before replacing it to see if the car will start now. (If so, still go get a new filter).
  • Air could also be affected by valves. See above.
• For Spark
• The plugs could be fouled, old, or mis-gapped. The gap can change on plugs over time, though newer cars tend to use higher end plugs like irridium electrode plugs that can often go over 100K miles without a sweat. There are lots of possible causes for plug fouling.

Spark Plug Fouling

• The wires from the distributor or electronic ignition module to the coil(s) need to be tight and intact
• The distributor or EIM needs to be working properly. The EIM will likely have a fuse to check.
• The connections of coil to spark plug top need to be clean and firm.

For Compression

• If any of the spark plugs are loose, then the compression, and any subsequent combustion, can be pushed out the gap instead of pushing the piston.
• If your piston rings are badly worn, or if you're not getting any oil up into the rings, then compression can be compromised. Hopefully you're not there, as this is usually time to wonder hard if you want to invest more money in the car.

You said the car cranks, so it sounds like your starter is engaging. There are a lot of things to think about. If there's not even a hint of ignition, I'd start with the spark list first. If it tries to ignite, but just won't catch and run, I'd start with the air filter and then move to fuel. Hoping this helps, and Happy Holidays D

If it doesn't over heat it's very possible that there is just too much coolant, so if it's leaking from the overflow there is no problem as that's what it's designed to do

if you buy at auto zone or pep-boys, they will change them for you

Master Cylinder is leaking past its seals. As for abs, could be related or separate issue.

Owner's manual should say, but for automatic 2 years 24K miles is about right I think.

Okay, first off it is not a motor, it is a small board with 4 different length coils of wire placed on it. It is called a resistor pack, and it is in the circuit between the blower speed switch on the dash and the blower motor. Car makers usually place them attached over a small hole in the heater/AC case under the dash, so that the small coils get some air blowing across them. They get hot when used because the small coils create resistance to current passing through the wire. If your 1 and 2 speed coils are burnt out, a new resistor pack will make all settings work again. Look for a multi-wire connector up under the dash on the heater/AC case. If it is retained by two screws, that is the resistor pack.

Which engine do you have?

2001 malibu horn fuse and relay are located in the under the hood fuse box. location 21 should be the relay location 43 should be the fuse. if the relay is put in wrong the horn will not work. if you replaced the relay and the horn stopped working try pulling the relay out and turning it around. and try the horn again.

the horn on a 2001 chevy mailbu is located behind the passenger side front fender. you need to remove the dust cover from the bottom of the fender in front of the tire to gain access to the horn(s) there should be 2 horns.

the port is located behind the engine next to the firewall. if you look down behind the the alternator you should see it. it should have a blue cap on it.

I had the same problem with my 2001 malibu. I found that there is a cable that goes from the key switch to the shifter. and I disconnected the cable at the shifter, and I no longer have the key getting stuck on acc. you may need to push the cable (inner part) towards the switch. if you pull the cable out just a little you won't be able to get the key to go all the way to the OFF position. also there is a cylinder as you can see in the pictures, mine has had the wires cut( by the previous owner) you may need to unplug yours. I'm not sure. before you put the console back together try to start the car and put it in gear.

Make sure filter is not reversed. Cud be the pressure regulator. Fuel pressure test can help. Ignition may need tuneup..new wires,distcap ,coil. Crank or cam sensor mite b the issue

That humming noise may be your fuel pump burning out. Try turning the key to the on position while someone else listens near the gas tank. The humming should only hum for a few seconds so you won't have time to listen yourself unless you can hear it from inside. If the hum continues and doesnt shut off, it is likely a bad fuel pump. It is normal to hear a small hum for a couple of seconds , but when it starts getting weak, it will hum louder, longer, or not at all

if rear window stop light works has blown globes in other 2 tail and stop are different circuts fit 2 new globes only go in 1 way

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