20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

look around the area and find a relay with a wire missing from a terminal that the wire will reach easily

Here's a link Mark on replacing your ignition switch. SAVE 20 GET 10 GIFT CARD ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE Here's a link on disarming the system. SAVE 20 GET 10 GIFT CARD ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE

Good Day,

I am assuming that you have the 4.3L V6.

The fuel pump is always a pain on trucks becasue you have to remove the tank to gain access. The pump is bolted in on the top side of the tank. I hope it doesn't have a full tank of gas as it needs to be drained(re-use when job is complete). Not to mention pulling a tank that's full of gas very heavy.
See this link for an overview:

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a13e9

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a145a

Here's how you test the fuel pump relay, and fuel pump:

1. Turn the ignition OFF.
2. Remove the relay.
3. Locate the two terminals on the relay, which are connected to the coil windings. Check the relay coil for continuity. Connect the common meter lead to terminal 85 and positive meter lead to terminal 86. There should be continuity. If not, replace the relay.

Fuel Pump

1. Turn the ignition key OFF for ten seconds.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position but do not start the engine.
3. You should here the fuel pump operate for two seconds (a light electrical humming sound).
4. Apply a 12 volt fused jumper wire to the fuel pump prime (test) connector. This should be located in the driver's side of the engine compartment. The fuel pump should operate.
5. If the fuel pump does operate, remove and test the relay. If the relay is defective, replace the relay and repeat the test.
6. If the relay is operating properly, connect a grounded test light to the fuel pump relay control wire (green with white stripe) at the relay. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The test light should illuminate for two seconds and go out. If the test light does not illuminate, check the relay control wire for continuity and repair as necessary, then repeat the test.
7. Connect a grounded test light to the feed wire (orange) at the relay and turn the ignition key ON. The test light should illuminate. If the light does not illuminate, test feed wire for continuity and the fuse in the underhood fuse relay center. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.
8. If the fuel pump is still not functioning, connect a fused jumper wire between the feed (orange) wire and the fuel pump motor (gray) wire at the relay. The pump should operate.
9. If the pump does not operate, check the fuel pump motor wire for continuity and repair as necessary.
10. If the pump will still not operate, replace the pump.
11. If the pump does operate, start the vehicle and remove the relay. The vehicle should continue to run. If the vehicle stalls, check the fuel pump/oil pressure switch and its wiring. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.

Also see figure 4 which is digram 3 from this link, this is the schematic on the fuel pump, the fuel pump's hot wire is tan with a white stripe, if you can test the voltage of this wire you can confirm it is not an electrical problem.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008f3ce

Also be sure to releive the fuel pressure before servicing

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a1468

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure.
3. Connect fuel pressure gauge J-34730-1A or its equivalent to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to prevent spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system. The system is now safe for servicing.
5. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.

Let me know if any of this is jibberish to you and I can clarify further.

Good Luck again, and feel free to ask anymore questions.

Should be pink is good winter and summer.

I think yours should be near the crank pulley on the passenger side. Parts stores have a component location feature that might help, or you could buy a cheap repair manual--sure to need it for other issues as well.

check your door bushings in the door hinge these probably need replacing. if you can lift up on door and feel play they are wore out. common issue on these if not you can put a wood block betwwen bottom of door and body and push on top of door to bend it a little to close top tighter

The cam runs the firing sequence of the injectors, But if it dies, the ECM will still fire the injectors from memory. Your truck will still run. There is an injector fuse. Check that and check fuel pressure.

Is the security light on?

I did this yesterday.....There is a thin plastic cover over the nut, pry it off and you'll have access to the nut to remove the entire arm off the motor.

Pressures can be affected by ambient temps. Here is a good video. AC Diagnostics AutoZone Car Care

Very possible that indeed the water pump is bad. These things do have a lifetime, and 15 years isn't all that short a time.

are u getting fire? if not check the crankshaft positioning sensor

you are describing a typical turn signal switch problem, all those systems run through this switch, its about a 110 dollar part

The who kits are sold with instructions at autoparts stores. If factory type contact the dealer for instructions. .

Check to make sure your battery connections are clean as well. I just replaced my battery a little over 2 months ago and did not clean my connections and my van quit on me. Just a thought.

Insure you have all wires on correct plugs (use firing order) and if still no spark, test ignition module and coil.

Check fuel filter,check battery for cank power.