1995 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

have you tried to spay the base of throttle body & intake to see if throttle body base gasket is is good or sucking air

hi david you got wires shorted .check the electrical diagram for your chevy u can easy find it on internet, even better, check visually relays and fuse box and then wires or plug OBD (on board diagnostics) easy fix

I suggest you have a fuel pressure leak down test run on this truck, the pressure check valve that is part of the fuel pump may be defective, this lets the pressure bleed down and this causes your kind of starting issues. The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank which must be dropped out to replace the fuel pump module assembly.

Should be on one of the ac lines or the back of the compressor.

C1500 is two wheel drive. If the vehicle feels like it is jerking when braking then you have warped rotors. You will feel this in the truck not in the pedal. If you did not have power brakes then you would feel the pedal go up and down. Now if your not braking or resting your foot on the pedal, You may still have brake issues. A frozen caliper [piston stuck] with a warped rotor may feel like this also, Without proper diagnostics it is a little difficult to determine. Try Midas or any other Brake shop, they have free inspections.

Usually the flasher unit is in the internal fuse box. Either on the side of the dash or under the outer kick panels

the fuel tank must be removed from the vehicle to replace pump or lift the box from the frame. If you remove the tank it is held up with two tank straps and the lines must be unhooked as you lower it. good luck unless you have access to a lift.

If you still have distributor, check the pickup wires as the condutors may have broken and as advance plate moves the pichup, the wires lose contact. Especially if no error codes show up.If no distributor, start it at night and look for arcing in the dark. If no arcing, check to make sure you have constant fuel pressure. If there is arcing, replace affected parts.in both cases also- check to make sure the battery to frame, battery to body shell and battery to engine block connections are sound. OSme are achieved via small cable from body to engine block.

this persons needs wiring diagram for the DRAC module whatever this is if anyone can help ,losiento pero yo soy en espana endonces ninguno de esta coches aqui .Pregunta con una sitio web en espanol mejor alguno sitios en espana pero mismo problema yo pensando ,renault si citreon si los modelos de europa una exotico americano ??

Does the truck run right? Does it smell real gassy, fuel mileage go south? If it is fouling plugs that fast it either has to be burning a lot of fuel or oil. Is there a check engine light on? Engine wore out, burning a lot of oil. Fuel injector stuck, using a lot of gas. Air filter dirty, making it burn way rich. I would think this truck would really smell bad if it is fouling out the plugs that fast.

I've attached a picture of the wiring on your vehicle. I couldn't put the whole image on here it exceeded their size requirements.

Is it running alright but just no power? Try the catalytic converter, maybe it is plugged and look at the air filter maybe it is not getting enough air. If it is misfiring, change the spark plugs, spark plug wires. If it is starting alright it is probably not the fuel pump, but it wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed in a while.

Sometime if its off the manifold it can sound like a ticking. Other than that it just a louder that normal noise near the back of car.

all i can say is you will need help bleeding the lines.

Remove as much fuel from the tank as you can. Disconnect the fuel lines and remove the bolts on the tank straps. Lower the tank and with a hammer and screwdriver, tap the locking ring counterclockwise. Now remove the pump assembly.

The turn signal switch and the hazard switch are likly places to look. To checjk the fuses is'nt to take them out and look at them but to test to see if power will go though them, I use a test light ( a tool that looks like an ice pick with a wire coming out of the handle and the handle is clear with a light bulb inside). with the clip connected to a good ground as you touch the back sides of the fuses the light will light if it only lights on one side, the fuse is blown ( does'nt matter what it looks like ) a bad fuse can look good. the turn signal switch is involved as is the Hazard switch. If you pusth the hazard switch and the lights light good then you know that the lights and the sockets are good. You also know that the wires are good . With the key on the turn signals should work front and back ( thier different cicruits) If only working in the front the turn signal switch is bad provided the hazards worked all the way around. Does the high mount stop light work? It works off of it's own circuit on the brake light switch and if no lights work your back to the fuses only after you checked to see if the high mount bulbs are good. Your car is plenty old enough to have them be burnt out. If the high mount doesn't work with the bulbs known to be good and then you check with the test light to see if the power isd getting to the brake light switch. One wire is hot with the key off and another comes hot with the key on ( the cruze control switch in the brake light).

2.0 lbs.

Since your computer has sent you an error code, have you check to see what it is? You mention everything but what the error code is!

there are 4 nuts inside the firewall by the pedal, and the link to the pedal arm may also need to be disconnected. See my post here:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r9342823-swap_out_brake_booster_without_breaking

just so you know if you ask a question, you can continue to chat with anyone who replies, just check the reply and answer on that same feed, if you check the answers I submitted on this subject,, and reply here I can help you with your questions