Top 20 1992 Chevrolet Lumina Questions & Answers

Depending on the vehicle, there is probably a U shaped slide clip that holds the lock cylinder to the body of the vehicle. It simply slides onto the cylinder against the deck lid. It should have a lip on the opposite side of the U opening to grip in order to slide it off.

You need to have your power steering looked at. You can make sure the power steering fluid is full, first.

Could becaused by a few different thing's . Map sensor , idle air control valve , a vacuum leak . Having the vehicle's scan data viewed would probably pin point the problem . Do you know what scan data is ? Is what a professional tech uses to find problems . 084 Engine Mechanical Tests Scan Data for Vacuum Leak 007 Idle Speed Problems Scan Data for Idle These kind of test's are what seperate week end DIY'ER's from a professional tech.

Try changing the fuel filter, water trapped in it can freeze. Its a 92 and probably time for a fuel pump. They don't like water either.(Meythonol Fuel) Always change fuel filter when adding antifreeze to fuel

could be a dirty fuel inject problem run the fault code first to check for cam/crank position sensor problems or other electronic faults and go from there a dealer charging $80.00/ hr is cheap as where i am it is $145.00 /hr

you have a faulty door latch switch. it does not know that the door has locked check your door functions manually that will give you a clue which side

Some pressure is normal, but this does seem excessive. Try new gas cap.

Usually when you get at the turn switch, you can use a jumper wire to bypass the turn switch and make the turn signals dance. If they won't work with the jumper, the problem isn't the turn switch. Maybe a problem with flasher or wiring issue in steering column? Did you check for voltage at the turn fuse? Goes hot with the key on. Use a test light to check for voltage.

Not the best picture for location. If you have another flasher for comparison it will help.

Yes they are just a little smaller in tire height. Should be fine.

Unless you have seen the inside of the door this is a guessing game but it can be done by feel. Place the slim jim in the middle of the window between the wiper and the glass. Put it as far down as you can and slide it around until you feel the mechanism. From there it is gently pulling, sliding and caressing it until it pops. If you can see the manual lock on the inside then you can watch for the to jiggle and you know you are in the right spot.

I would pull idle air control valve and clean it mass air flow cleaner and see if that helps , also sounds like low fuel your fuel injectors maybe on the way out , also check fuel pressure with a gauge at fuel rail

support the engine from the topside and then remove the 6 or 8 bolts below and get a new frame. a steel bar that supports the engine will span the opening under the hood between the core support and the cowl.

Hi, you probably have a bad spark pack. If I remember correctly, there is a spark pack for two spark plugs so three total.

its and old car, and id bet never once tuned up in last decade. did i guess right? no spark, well, it takes spark at all cylinders not 1. is spark good out of coil to distributor top? if not, then we insert the diagnostic jumper to the DLC port OBD1 ECU, back in 92. (old systems) then crank for 5 seconds then release key then watch the ECU tell you why it fails to make sparks. the cmp sensor instigates spark. think of dummer boy in band then the ECU sees that and creates all spark. via the IGNITOR, the IGNitor charges the spark coil and BAM spark , if the cmp (sensor) or ignitor fails the ecu sees that and reports it, all you do is LOOK.

starter solenoid? check battery connections gm known for corrosion

you meant, CEL comes on key on but went out running and stayed out, , yes, got you. but its only for smog, or 100% dead sensors. its not for weak parts at all. facts, the Ecu DID WODERFUL things to stop the stall but failed causes are 50 fold but we use physics top 5 1: lost 12vdc power the PCM/ecU BRAIN (ALAN TURNING ! BRAIN) 2: the engine lost compression, it can hot, or belt slips , cam slip. 3: lost spark 99% of all stalles are customer never tuned car up in 10 years. 4; bad fueling. 5: lost idle air, supply. stalls. now. or EGR stuck open making air bad. there is a test for each wana GUE$$ or TEST. or get it serviced, choice 3, most use. no engine stated (size) nor a real question, (why:does it. can someone fix it , yes,, can i fix it , my guess not, no tools, no fix it, and no books .) get it fully tuned up. why not.?

Two possibilities. The crank sensor, located behind the harmonic balancer. (Lowest pulley on the engine). Usually they work or don't. Rarely have I seen intermittent problems on these. Bad plug connection or cranked sensor. Second would be the ignition module, this is under the coil packs. These do cause more of a hit miss problem. First , there are three plugs on it. Unplug them and plug them back in. This helps for corrosion problems. Also the plug on the right side (as you stand in front of it) leads down to a sensor on the block. This wire can get to close to the exhaust and burn/short out. Check it closely. Have the codes read. this will point you in the right direction. If the wires and plugs check out, My guess would be the ignition module.

It comes as a unit go to a junk yard. 6 bolts you don't have to drop the carrier take down the brake and caliper. slide out of the hub from the inside Inspect other parts related or you are wasteing your time

Might be fusible link burned by starter also check relay emergency fix run power to blower with toggle switch