20 Most Recent 1999 Pontiac Sunfire - Page 8 Questions & Answers

the water pump is in the back of the engine. if you stand at the passengers side fender and look at the motor it is on your left side next to the fire wall,and it is run by the timing chain

check for a corroded common earth wire.

• Wiper Motor Replacementwww.izito.com/Wiper+Motor+ReplacementInfo on Wiper Motor Replacement Get Results from 6 Search Engines!

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View Slide ShowAnswer:It his very easy to remove the motor/wiper assembly so do not hesitate to do so: Remove the plastic covers off the wiper arm retaining nuts. Remove the wiper arm nuts with a 13mm socket. Twist and pull with your finger tips and finger nails at the base of the small rubber squirt tubing off the hard plastic squirt delivery tubes. You may have to yard up and down on the wiper arms pretty hard to get them loose from their tapered shafts. Don't be a mindless gorilla but be brave and keep at it. They will come loose. Remove the cowl cover by pulling or prying out the center of the six retaining push pins. Then lift the cowl cover up then out at a 45 degree angle. You will find the cover is a very tight fit between the right hand wiper shaft and the weatherstrip at the base of the windshield. Be brave and keep pulling and prying until it comes loose. Reinstalling the cowl cover and getting the rubber weather strip over the cover is the hardest part of the whole job. Use putty knifes (slowly and carefully!) or a very small slender screwdriver. It took me half an hour just to do this part of the job that. ugh. Remove the 3 bolts holding the wiper assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector by squeezing the retaining tab that you cant see on the backside of the connector. You have to squeeze real hard. Lift the wiper assembly out. If the wipers are standing straight up when turned off then keep reading: The parking pawl probably has a broken spring and is not working correctly. The pawl is a 1.25" long piece of metal external to the motor and is part of the Stack-O-Plates on the output shaft of the motor and to which the wiper push rods are attached. When you turn the wipers to "Off" the motor will reverse direction and the pawl will catch on a stationary tab that is part of the motor/wiper frame. This will hold the wipers in the down position while the motor continues to run and allow the parking Stack-O-Plates-Spring-Wrapped gizmo to do its magic which drags the wiper arms down into the extra low "parked" position. If the tiny spring that holds the pawl in the out position breaks then the pawl will not engage the stationary tab. The wipers will then continue swinging upward through half a swing at which point a cam/switch that is internal to the pulse board (the cover on the motor output gear (three T20 Torx screws to remove) will tell the motor to stop because it thinks the parking Stack-O-Plates gizmo has finished doing its job but instead the wiper arms will be stuck in the "Hello, I'm a dork" raised flag position.WARNING: Use caution while working around the wiper mechanism. If the key is on and the wiper lever is set to "Intermediate" then the motor can start unexpectedly. If your fingers are down there in the wrong place, the mechanism has more than enough power to break bones and/or peal the skin right off of them. Don't be afraid, just be deliberate and methodical and always be aware if the motor/electronics are energized. Remove the Stack-O-Plates assembly from the motor output shaft (T30 Torx) to access the pawl to put on a spring. I wrapped one and a half loops of spring around one protrusion on the end of the pawl and around one tab of the stationary clip that limits the swing of the pawl to hold it in the "swung out" position. The loop of spring applies very light pressure but that is all it needs. This will all make sense when you are looking at the pawl mechanism. I cut off one and a half loops from a spring like what you would find in a retractable ball point pen but bigger. Use what spring you can find even if it from a ball point pen. When the motor runs in the forward direction the pawl harmlessly swings out of the way as it passes by the stationary tab. Bend the stationary tab in or out as necessary so the pawl engages straight on to it. I will try and post pictures of all this. hope this helps, I copied off the internet for youBefore remounting the whole Stack-O-Plates gizmo assembly you will need to set the motor into the correctly timed position. Plug the motor in, then turn the wipers to "Intermediate". When the motor stops then turn off the ignition switch or quickly disconnect the motor. The motor is now in the correct position. Remount the Stack-O-Plates so there is about 1/4" to 1" space between the pawl and the stationary tab. Tighten down the T30 Torx bolt (blue lock tight recommended) then test the unit to see if the pawl engages to the stationary tab and lets the parking Stack-O-Plates do all its parking gyrations before you remount the whole wiper assembly. When you are all done try not to wear out the wipers by constantly turning them on and off for the next few hours of driving just so you can marvel at your handy work. :O) Buy the way, if you turn the wipers off and they just wiggle a little bit while the motor goes click-click-click-click trying to do its parking thing then you need to alter (slightly) the relationship between the cam/switch arm inside the pulse module (again, the cover on the motor output gear, three T20 Torx screws to remove). There are two switch/contact arms in the center of the pulse board. The one closest to the board that engages the plastic cam mounted to the board is the one you want to change slightly. The other free floating arm is driven by the cam on the big motor output gear and is the contact to let the electronics know the output gear has rotated half a turn and the wipers are now parked. I bent the one arm closest to the pulse board away from its cam just slightly so that only about 3/4 of the "hook" on the end of the arm (you will know what I mean when you look at it) is hitting the ramp on the cam (the cam spins clockwise). Verify that the electrical contact actually opens a bit when the arm is riding on the high part of the cam. You may have to adjust and verify a number of times to find that sweet spot where it runs reliably. It took me half an hour of fiddling. O_0

Those gauges get power from a 10amp fuse marked CLSTR and a 10amp fuse marked BCM/CLU. The fuses should be in the fuse box inside the car.Have you checked those fuses to see if they have power ?

check or adjust brake pedal, check brake booster or replace new one, check pedal return spring and bushing, check all wheel cylinder or replace, check brake shoe or brake pad, check brake fluid or replace,.

TRANSMISSION COMPONENT SLIPPING

The security, antitheft, or passlock light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link may help you find ways to bypass this or fix it yourself.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

may be you should make a diagnostic and you can do it in a garage or you can do it by yourself if you want to do it by yourself you need some tools and you can find some good ones here: spobd2.com

You'll have to contact the dealer to find out the security code or have them tell you how to disable your cars security system. The only other way to do it would be to disconnect the battery but if you've already tried that then nothing else will work other than have the code.

does it look like a radiator? Low coolant sensor, may be in the overflow tank. Check your coolant levels when cold.

in the fuel tank

Look for the throttle cabe and follow the cable you will see the throttle postion switch at the throttle plate in the air intake for the engine.

you have to figure out where the leak is first and u cam add water while running just dont do it when car is hot

Try pressing the gas peddle down half way then let it up then start the engine . Mine will crank and fire but not start when cold but does now when I do this.

leaking injector o rings or injector its self

low coolant,clog rad.water pump.

Here's a link to see where drain plug is,enlarge picture # 12 and you will see.

not sure but you may neen to replace you ingnition switch just have some one that knows cars check it out and than you will know it is that or something else...

oxygen sensors, purge canister (if has filter replace) pressure sensor gas tank. google OBD II Codes, will give you what triggers the code helpful for troubleshooting