Top 10 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix Questions & Answers

After you adjust the tire presuure you must drive the vehicle for a few miles then look at the gage again/ you can also disconnect battery for 15-20 minutes. Please rate my response Thank you very much

If you are looking for a wiring diagram for the fuse box then there are a couple of sources. Pickup a hayes or chilton repair manual from a local parts store or go online to ALLDATA. com. You will have to pay for the info online, but you can print it off. You can search for the wiring info online for free but I have had little success that way. If you are looking for fuse locations within the fuse box then try the owners manual in the glove box or buy a manual.

Add steering fluid in the pump reservoir. It is located in the left side of the engine. see picture..

I WOULD SAY GET A REPAIR MANUAL TO LOOK AT THE STARTER WIRING DIAGRAM TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE TWO RED WIRES BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE + FUSE LINK WIRE GOES TO SOLENOID POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL POST .THAT THE LARGE STUD WITH A BOLT.THE SMALL PURPLE WIRE GOES TO S OR SWITCH TERMINAL ON THE STARTER SOLENOID.

po171 is a lean code, and could be likely caused by a plugged fuel filter, or a weak fuel pump, I would recommend changing the fuel filter first since its cheaper.. The filter is located under the rear of the vehicle by the fuel tank, if this doesn't help run, or have run a fuel pressure check to determine if that is the cause. Also look carefully under the hood for any hoses or lines disconnected causing a vacuum leak, this can also cause a lean code

GM Century/Lumina/Grand Prix/Intrigue 1997-2000
Fuel Pressure Regulator - Removal & Installing
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with fuel pump pressure on one side and regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The regulator's function is to maintain a constant fuel pressure across the injectors at all times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing fuel pressure as engine vacuum drops.

The fuel pressure regulator is serviced as a separate component. When servicing the pressure regulator, make sure that the O-ring back-up, large O-ring, filter screen and small O-ring are properly positioned on the pressure regulator.


Fig. Cutaway view of a typical fuel pressure regulator


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The need to work as cleanly as possible cannot be over-emphasized. Even the smallest amount of dirt, if allowed into the fuel pressure regulator and/or the fuel rail, will find its way to the fuel injectors. The nozzle openings of the injectors are very small. Keep hands and tools clean. Clean the areas to be disconnected with a suitable solvent. Carefully cover open fittings and connections to keep out foreign material. Dirt in the injectors almost guarantees a clogged fuel injector and engine performance problems.
3.1L and 3.4L (VIN E) Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure using the procedures found in this section.
3. Remove the upper intake manifold assembly. Please see .
4. Disconnect the vacuum line from the pressure regulator.
5. Remove the regulator retaining screw and remove the retainer bracket. Using a clean shop cloth to catch fuel spillage, carefully pull the regulator from the fuel rail. Twist the regulator slightly while removing to ease removal. Discard the O-ring.

Fig. Exploded view of the fuel pressure regulator mounting-3.1L and 3.4L (VIN E) engines
To install:

1. Clean all parts well. DO NOT use shop compressed air to test or clean a fuel pressure regulator. Clean the fuel pressure regulator screen, if necessary. DO NOT immerse the fuel pressure regulator in a solvent bath or it will be damaged.
2. If the filter screen has been contaminated, it should be removed and the pressure regulator replaced.
3. Lubricate a new pressure regulator O-ring with clean engine oil and install on the regulator inlet.
4. Install the fuel return pipe to the regulator.
5. Install a new retainer and spacer bracket into the slot on the fuel rail and install the pressure regulator to the fuel rail. Tighten the fuel return line nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
6. Connect the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and install the retainer screw. Tighten to 76 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
7. Inspect and verify that the retainer and spacer bracket is engaged in the slots in the fuel rail. Grasp and pull on the regulator to ensure that it is properly seated.
8. Install the upper intake manifold. Please see .
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for leaks using the following procedure:
    • Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
    • Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
    • Turn the ignition switch to the ON position again.
    • Inspect all areas for fuel leaks.

Other size engine can find in autozone.com (free register).

Hope this help (remember rated this).

I would start by replacing the Crank sensor and the cam sensor.

3.8L Engine (most common) Upper Intake Manifold To Remove:

1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable.
   • Fuel injector sight shield.
   • Air cleaner intake duct.
   • Right spark plug wires from the ignition control module and reposition.
3. Relieve the fuel pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Fuel rail assembly.
   • Brake booster hose from the vacuum source manifold in the upper intake manifold.
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) wiring harness heat shield nut, bolt and the EGR heat shield.
   • Throttle body support bracket upper bolt.
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the following:
   • EVAP purge solenoid
   • Throttle Position (T/P) sensor
   • Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
   • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
   • EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line from the throttle body.
   • Accelerator and the cruise control cables with the bracket from the throttle body.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Upper intake manifold bolts and stud.
   • Clean the upper intake manifold bolt threads.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Upper intake manifold by lifting the back of the intake and sliding the manifold forward from the throttle body support bracket.
   • Upper-to-lower intake manifold carrier gasket from the upper intake manifold.
8. If the upper intake manifold is being replaced, remove the following:
   • Throttle body assembly.
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
   • Vacuum source manifold.

Upper intake manifold bolt torque sequence (3.8L engine)

To Install:

1. If the manifold was replaced, install or connect the following:
   • Vacuum source manifold.
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
   • Throttle body assembly.
   • Upper-to-lower intake manifold carrier gasket to the upper intake manifold.
2. Carefully place the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold. Ensure that the alignment pins in the upper intake manifold align with the holes in the lower intake manifold. NOTE: Apply thread lock compound, to the bolt threads before assembly.
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   • Upper intake manifold. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
   • Accelerator and the cruise control cables with the bracket to the throttle body.
   • EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line to the throttle body.
4. Connect the electrical connectors to the following:
   • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
   • Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
   • Throttle Position (T/P) sensor
   • EVAP purge solenoid
5. Install or connect the following:
   • Throttle body upper support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
   • EGR valve wiring harness heat shield, nut and the bolt. Tighten the nut and the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
   • Brake booster hose to the vacuum source manifold.
   • Fuel rail assembly.
   • Right spark plug wires.
   • Air cleaner intake duct.
   • Fuel injector sight shield.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Fill the cooling system.
8. Inspect for fluid or vacuum leaks.

Lower Intake Manifold (W/O Supercharger) To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Upper intake manifold.
   • Generator brace.
   • Drive belt tensioner with the mounting bracket and the heater water bypass inlet pipe.
   • Exhaust gas recirculation EGR outlet pipe bolt from the lower intake manifold.
   • Radiator inlet hose from the water outlet housing.
   • ECT sensor electrical connector.
   • Right upper engine mount strut bracket.
   • Generator brace bracket bolts.
   • Generator brace bracket.
   • Lower intake manifold bolts.
   • Lower intake manifold.
   • Lower intake manifold seals.
   • Lower intake manifold gaskets.
2. If replacing the lower intake manifold, Remove or disconnect:
   • Water outlet housing bolt and stud
   • Water outlet housing
   • Gasket and the thermostat.
   • ECT sensor.
3. Inspect the flatness of inlet flanges.
4. Clean the intake manifold mating surfaces.
5. Clean the intake manifold bolts and bolt holes of adhesive compound.

To Install:

1. If removed, install the ECT sensor.
   • Tighten the ECT sensor to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
2. If removed, install the thermostat, the gasket, and the water outlet housing.
3. If removed, install the water outlet housing bolt and the stud.
   • Tighten the bolt and stud to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)
4. Install or connect the following:
   • Lower intake manifold gaskets. NOTE: Apply sealer GM P/N 12346286 (Canadian P/N 10953472) or equivalent to the ends of the intake manifold seals.
     
   • Lower intake manifold seals.
   • Lower intake manifold.
   • Lower intake manifold bolts.
   NOTE: Apply thread lock compound GM P/N 12345382 (Canadian P/N 10953489) or equivalent to the two hidden bolts and ensure they are installed.
   
5. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
   
   
6. Install or connect the following:
   • Generator brace bracket.
   • Generator brace bracket bolts. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
   • Right upper engine mount strut bracket.
   • ECT sensor electrical connector.
   • Radiator inlet hose to the water outlet housing.
   • EGR outlet pipe to the lower intake manifold.
   • EGR outlet pipe bolt to the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolt to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm)
   • Drive belt tensioner.
   • Generator brace.
   • Upper intake manifold.
7. Inspect for leaks.

Lower Intake Manifold (W/ Supercharger) To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the supercharger.
4. Remove the thermostat housing.
5. Remove the EGR pipe at the intake manifold.
6. Disconnect the electrical connection at the temperature sensor.
7. Remove the intake manifold and gaskets.

NOTE: The coolant bypass tube will release from the intake manifold when the manifold is removed.
To Install:

1. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
2. Install the intake manifold gaskets.
3. Align the coolant bypass tube with the opening in the intake manifold and install the manifold. Tighten the bolts to 11 lb ft (15 Nm).
4. Install the electrical connector to the temperature sensor.
5. Install the EGR pipe to the intake manifold.
6. Install the thermostat housing.
7. Install the supercharger.
8. Fill the cooling system.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.

I was just reading an article by Lynn Rademacher on EHow. This woman doesn't know the first thing about this unit. The blower motor resistor on a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix is more or less a module which contains resistors (yes plural meaning more than one) to regulate the speed of the blower motor.
Depending on the speed settings in your car controlling the blower motor anywhere from 3 to 5 speeds are possible. On most Pontiac Grand Prixs (and I've owned a 1990, 2 1998's a 1996 and a 1997 and a couple of Oldsmobiles which work the same way) there are probably 5 settings. Each setting has a resistor regulating the speed of the motor except for the high setting which does not have a resistor associated with it. It's just full 12 volts to the motor. I've had a resistor module which was a printed circuit board and several that are an assembly of welded resistors. This type is much better as the printed circuit ones have a tendency to crack or in one case the resistor fell off due to possible over heating of the circuit. These were only soldered in place. Getting to the point of location; all these vehicles have the blower motor and resistor module located under the glove compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. There is usually a grey felt covered panel made of fibrous material under the glove box that has to be removed in order to get to the blower motor and resistor module. First and foremost you have to be a contortionist to get to the screws holding the blower motor in (more than likely 3 screws. Use a 7/32 socket to remove) If you can reach and unplug the resistor module connector from the blower motor do that first. This is located at the back of the motor (GM designers really knew what they were doing here). The connector has a latch which is a pain in the you know what to undo. This is all done by feel as you cannot see what you are working on. If you have a little mirror so that you can see behind the motor may help. But once you put your hand back there forget the mirror. There is also a larger connector engaged to the resistor module. It's about an inch long and has several wires running to it. Disconnect that one first if you can. It is also "latched" so you have to relieve the latch before you can pull the connector out. If you were successful in disconnecting the connectors, remove the 3 screws holding the blower motor. It will drop down and may be a pain getting out as the area is quite cramped. There are also 3 screws (same socket size) holding the resistor module in. 2 on one side and 1 on the other. You only need to remove the one or ones in front that are easily accessible. The one or ones in the back only may need to be loosened or maybe not at all. The mounting positions for the module are slotted so the part can be removed by sliding it slightly forward and then down. Reverse the procedure for putting everything back together. Resistor module first. Replace the large connector there. Then the blower motor. The blower motor by the way will only align with the mounting holes one way so make sure you can see there alignment first before you put any screws back in. The rubber ring going around the perimeter of the motor housing should lock into the mounting bosses to ensure correct alignment. Also there is a short bent air hose which evidently cools the motor while it is running attached from the motor to the housing that the motor mounts to. Make sure this gets connected. Holding the motor in place while trying to get one screw in is also a pain in the ****. Replace the fiber cover (or not) with the 2 or 3 little push in plastic gizmos. Upon completing this task your sides and back will take a while to get back to normal. Good luck!!!

Does any one no wat would cause a load squial when I turn and push the brakes in a 2006 poniac pursuit g5 it only happends sometimes