1997 Pontiac Grand Prix - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi. Thanks for your question. For any assistance related to wires attached to window regulator you can visit https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire workshop manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

Unfortunately, there isn't much information to go on here. I would think wheel hub from what is given.

check youtube...your car has a little info...the that might solve your problem

Learning how to test a GM distributor less ignition system rather then guessing an replacing parts is the proper way to diagnose . Pulling a couple of pull wires of the same coil an having someone crank the engine over to see if there is spark would the first test . If there is no spark ,could be the ignition module , or the crankshaft postion sensor . GM 3 8L Ignition Control Module And Crank 3X 18X Sensor Test

A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: open or short to ground in the wiring harness O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance O2 heater element resistance is high Internal short or open in the heater element Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter

One quick way to rule out the catalytic converter is to get a thermal imager and check the inlet and outlet temp of the cat with the engine running. A good cat will have a higher temp at the outlet. If not then the cat is bad.

Yep...see the link in the GP thread. The dude had to remove the hood bracket. Thread bumper and fender removal

When a sliding sunroof goes wrong there are no half measures when it comes to repair, especially if it is to be used and expected to be reliable. The amount of routine maintenance that can be carried out is small but fortunately there is a variety of spray cans available to squirt lubricants into inaccessible places so periodically opening the roof and standing in the opening with a good flashlight squirting lubricants along cables and runners is a small price to pay for reliability. The job is finished off by emptying a pint of water into each corner of the trough to ensure the drains are intact and clear. Gaining access to the sliding roof gear mostly means removing the headlining. The cables are almost certain to need replacing and it is likely a cable jumped a pulley because something wore out or broke. It is not a suitable job for a home mechanic and not a suitable job for lots of professional repairers. It requires a deal of experience or constant referral to a repair manual and lots of patience and attention to detail. It is a job best entrusted to a specialist...

misty is a normal occurrence physics thingy inside car temp hotter than out side the car so mists or other way around then normalizes ebay thats a good kit and you will do well with it a regular mechanic can fit those have it gased elsewhere ..... where the price is right not that bad a DIY to install those components is possible if you have the time and skill level just have to watch you dont burn yourself as you degass the cars current system its just the air con people want to sell you a new compressor etc usually you can get a good used AC compressor from a wrecking yard PREMIUM AC COMPRESSOR KIT PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 1997 1998 eBay

How much oil did you add? Did it fill it back up? Was there an oil "puddle"under the engine when you stopped?

They are at back.

gearbox selector out of adjustment at the gearbox needs to be lined up in neutral position and rest should work internal park locking pal worn an engine/gearbox mount broken or sagging

it sounds like the motor is working?
maybe is a little gear that's near the lights of the roof.

check it out.

Could be a shorted sensor , have you replaced it ? Shorted wiring , A problem with in the instrument cluster . Would need to do some testing to find out what causes this . I would tell you to check power an ground of both circuits involved ,could you do that ? You would need pin out charts of the connectors that go to the instrument cluster . find the wire for coolant sensor , then find that same wire color at the coolant sensor an with ohm meter check to see if wires are shorted to ground etc... The engine coolant temperature is operated by two coils. The battery voltage is applied to both of the coils. One of the coils is grounded directly and the other coil is grounded through the engine coolant temperature sender. The engine coolant temperature sender has a resistance of 44 ohms at 125?° C (260?° F). The resistance increases at lower temperatures. The resistance is approximately 1365 ohms at 37?° C (100?° F), causing the current through the engine coolant temperature sender at one of the coils to increase, as the coolant temperature decreases and moves the pointer. Fuel Gauge The magnetic fields of the two coils moves the fuel gauge pointer. The two coils are at right angles to each other. The battery voltage is applied to the E coil and the circuit divides at the opposite end of the E coil. One voltage path continues to ground through the F coil, as the other goes to ground through the variable resistor of the fuel level sender. The resistance of the fuel level sender is low when the fuel tank is low. A large flow of current passes through the E coil and the fuel level sender resistor. The current pulls the pointer towards the E on the scale. The fuel level resistance is high when the fuel tank is full. The increased current flowing though the F coil moves the pointer to the F on the scale. With the two coils operating the pointer, the fuel gauge is not affected by the any changes in the voltage of the system. Without being able to test the electrical circuits , I would say there is a problem inside the instrument cluster. You could take it out an have it tested or you could get a used one from a auto salvage yard for $15.00 an see if the problem goes away . With

There is a pretty standard procedure for resetting the security in GM vehicles. This is it. Perform the re-learning procedure

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3. Observe the SECURITY light, after approximately 10 minutes the light will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 10 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes ( the vehicle
6. is now ready to relearn the Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).

Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Sensor Data Code and/or password). Your specific vehicle does not actually claim that this works. This is for a few years after your vehicle, but it is worth a try. If it doesn't work, then you may actually have a failure on your hands that needs to be addressed. More info on this site. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/

I just answered a P705 question that may be connected to this. But I will add that usually transmission codes will not turn on a check engine light. The reason is the check engine light is to warn the driver that something has happened that could damage the cat converter or cause major problems with emissions.

Check relays and fuses. Possible ECM/PCM driver is bad.

Here is a diagram of the under hood fuse box Or u can go find it for yourself just click this link 2007 pontiac grand prix fuse diagram Google Search

if as soon you give gas it dies i would check the gas pressure it should be about 50 psi if it good check the compression on that cylinder thats a start let me no

Check the fuse link in the small diameter wire coming off the battery cable. It is more flexible than a standard copper wire of the same size. If it's bad you can splice in a new wire in it's place. Just be sure it's the same gauge as the original.