20 Most Recent 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I would get a second opinion and more cost estimates. It could be just a gasket that needs to be replaced....& most likely the check engine light is not even related to it. I hope this helps.

This can be a tough case, You may want to start by having the ECM checked for code first, there are too many things that can cause your engine to just shut down. I would not start by just throwing parts on it; this could be costly!

Have someone scan the vehicle fore codes first!

Good luck.

Rodney

I believe they make 4 versions of that truck,as far as
emissions go,for different states

You may now need to have either a sensor changed
for the altitude or the pcm/ecm reprogramed

I would start by asking a dealer & check their
bulletins on that subject

A local repair shop may be a better place to actually
get the changes done

you would have to take everything out of the way by slowly unscrewing each part but make sure you know any and all screws go at when you try to put it back together but also too any wires or hoses if any. I am guessing that your talking about a 3 belts not Velts. This is a timely matter project to get done and may take between 4 to 10 hours and it depends how mechanically you are but make sure that you do not damage or use a hammer to break a bolt from being tight because you can damage something else that you will have to replace. I know because I had to take off my starter off my car which I had to get underneath my car to get to the starter myself Fun job. Just make sure if this is your first time to really take your time and you will know the next time because the hands on experience faster way but too you can put down on paper a diagrams yourself the parts your taking off and the bolts so this will help you when putting it back together.

I have had to change the speed sensor located on the transmission.

You have to re-set the obd via using Nissan's approved drive-cycle which is;

1. Start the engine when the engine coolant

temperature gauge needle points to C. Allow

the engine to idle until the gauge needle

points between the C and H (normal operating

temperature).

2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88

km/h), then quickly release the accelerator

pedal completely and keep it released for at

least 6 seconds.

3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a

moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed

of 53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least

5 minutes.

4. Stop the vehicle.

5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h)

and maintain the speed for 20 seconds.

6. Repeat steps 4 through 5 at least 3 times.

7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h)

and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes.

8. Stop the vehicle and turn the engine off.

9. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one more

time.

If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the

preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable

between steps. Do not stop the engine

until step 7 is completed. If you cannot or

do not want to perform the driving pattern, a
NISSAN dealer can conduct it for you.

Fuel air sensor regulator.

replace fuel filtor

P0430....Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

yes it could very well be a O2 sensor and the quickest way is to test with a multi meter ,their are 2 sensors on each bank ,now each sensor has four wires and two of the wires are the same colour ,so check these two wires for 12v supply coming to them ,then the other tow should show a varying current as engine ides and is revved a little ,

Do you have any leaks? Make sure that all bleeder screws are fully tightened after bleeding. When you bleed the brakes make sure that you do not let up the pedal while tightening / loosening the bleeder - otherwise air will return to the lines. If the problem continues you may need to have the ABS system bled with a computer attached - sometimes air can get trapped in the valve block and can only be released with a computer opening the valves and a pressure bleeder attacher to the reservoir.

clean it and check from weher is leak

line up the lines on the belt with the dots on the sprockets and you cant miss.there is also two small dimples on the cover behind the cam sprockets that you can use to line up dots on face of cam sprockets with.the belt should have marks to indicate which side faces outward toward front of vehicle.turn crankshaft until dot on its sprocket is in roughly the five oclock position.align solid line on belt with this dot(area of belt with words on it will need to be between cam sprockets.i find it helpful to wedge a piece of cardboard between belt and lip on oil pump to hold belt in position on crank sprocket.next align the next solid line with the tooth on the DRIVERS cam sprocket that has the dot on it.....this shoul be roughly two oclock position.lastly align the hashed line on belt withdot on passenger side cam sprocket....this will be in roughly the 11 oclock position.loop remainder of belt behind tensioner pulleyand set tension.as long as themarks on the belt line up with marks on sprockets properly you cant miss.

I had that happen to me last year and It turned out to be the timing belt, it sound like it wanted to turn over and it was just out of gas but would never start I had it towed to my home and removed the rotter cap to see if it rotated while trying to crank it and it didn't that is a indicator that the timing belt has broken it was a good thing that it happen on a side street and not on the freeway because depending on the rate of speed you are doing can cause the engine to go out thank goodness I was only doing about 25 miles per hour when it happened. It cost me 600 to replace the timing belt and It's been running like a champ since. The other thing is they can't tell if the engine is completely damaged until the belt has been replaced and if it has your out of the 600 or so it cost to have it repaired to replace the engine I was told it would be about $4000 bucks I pray this is not the case for you. Good Luck!

yes if the mechanic was sloppy--any service theres a risk of screwin somethin else up--u need to hook it up to a tech II scanner for a data stream to obtain precise info-dont just go changin parts--1st look over engine to see any damages

If you mean when making a tight turn, it's probably CV (constant velocity) joints.

Only on Ford Products

It could be your Fuel Filter is dirty but more likely would be a fuel pump issue. It is easier to pull fuel from a full tank than one near empty and that would explain the sputtering

look for engine pulling bracket may have bolts coming lose, could be heat shild on the exhust manifold or brackets of any sort may be coming lose.