20 Most Recent 1994 Nissan Quest - Page 8 Questions & Answers

follow the lines coming from the compressor to the condensor and back to the firewall. it should be near the drier. it should have a blue cap on it

Yes should work only difference will probably be oil pan exhaust manifolds and odd brackets

You should see it right by the compressor pulley. It will be a aluminum colored tubing with a cap on the port. The compressor pulley is the one that engages and disengages when the a/c is on.

my vehicle was similar.....i had to readjust the brake pedal so that it would hit the contact to engage the brake lights.

u don't have to remove the engine however you must remove the transmission and flywheel, you will also need the Nissan special tool to install the new full circle seal or it will leak.

under the hood usually inside the fuse block on the drivers side of the car

Make sure you are trying the input side of the pump instead of the output side.
The input side is the larger diameter hoses, of the 2. Then you have to have the AC on with the pump running, and wait awhile. It sometimes helps to put the fan of freon in warm water, since it will ice up as freon leaves. If the receiver/dryer cylinder has a sight glass, watch for when the bubbles start to disappear. Then you know it is full and can't take any more. Better yet is to put on a set of guages to check pressure.

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gas up your compressor .

turn your key on, DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL and start, good luck. Pumping the pedal doesn't do a thing for fuel injection. In thre days of carburetors and you had control of your own property, Pumping did a couple of things. It set the choke and added more fuel. But that was yesterday and yesterday's gone.

if you leave the O/D off, what happens?

Go here and read files too.


http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Make sure the rotors (the disks that the tire rim are mounted on), are smooth. If they are rough, then they are wearing your break pads down. Even if the break pads are new, bad rotors will grind them down. Change the rotors...

Constant 12V+ Brown/White
Switched 12V+ Orange
Ground Black/Light Green
Illumination Pink/Black
Dimmer Pink
Front Speakers 5" x 7" Doors
Left Front (+) Gray/Blue
Left Front (-) Yellow/Blue
Right Front (+) Blue
Right Front (-) Yellow
Rear Speakers 5" x 7" Side Panels

Left Rear (+) Blue/White
Left Rear (-) Blue/White
Right Rear (+) Blue/Black
Right Rear (-) Red/Blue

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this is a tough repair since the VSS, vehcile speed sensor is usually corroded to the transmission. It is on the top rear of trans, has one 10mm bolt and a 2 wire connector. The plastic gear on the end of the VSS wears out. Or the signal stops.

The cruise control quits too.

go here for help. see files and photos.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

sounds like you need to

1. clean your mass air flow sensor in the air intake tube with carb cleaner. spray the 2 sensor wires.
2. check for brown dust uner the distributor cap and rotor. If yes, remove slooted wheel and clean optical sensors. If ok now, replace distributor as can sesnor can not be replaced separate.
3. Replace ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
4. Adjust TPS, throttle position sensor. It has a big affect on shift points.

Finally, trans is just responding to engine issues, it's not bad.

Go here too

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Check out Thermostatic Expantion Valve

The best thing to do is go and spend about 5 to 10 dollars and get a wire adapter from radio shack or any parts stores. It makes it real easy you can wire everything in your house walk out plug it in and away you go.

pull off the tire and remove the rotor. clean the bearings with carb cleaner and look to see if they have signs of heat stress(dark blue/purple disscolorations) if so replace both inner and outer bearings. also look for the same discoloration on the rotor. If it has the color, your brake caliper is hanging up. It also may of been something as simple as blown grass od weeds caught in the rotor and burned off when it got hot, thus the reason you havent see it since.

I have seen a couple of these now with headgasket leaks to the outside of the block just as you describe. I solved them both with a stop-leak additive, not something I would normally use, but I really didn't want to pull the heads because the exhaust studs always break on these engines. I would find out for sure where the leak is before proceeding though. If it's a hose or frost plug, you'll have to repair it properly.

there is a few things that could be wrong. 1: check if your fuel filter is clogged or your fuel pump is clogged or just going bad. i would check the filter first, only cause its alot cheeper. 2: check if your o2 sensors are bad and needs replaced. 3: check if your air mass sensor is bad. i would check the easiest first and the pump last.