20 Most Recent 1994 Nissan Quest - Page 6 Questions & Answers

That symptom indicates a short or loose connection. The problem here is that it could be inside the radio itself. You were correct to check fuses and wiring but may need to trace further back into the fuse panel. In order to bypass the ignition and fuse panel and isolate the problem further, locate a constant hot or run a wire directly from the positive battery terminal back to the radio and connect the radio with that and see if the problem persist. If the problem does continue then you know it is in the radio as you have eliminated the other circuits. If it stops then you know you have further troubleshooting to do to locate the short or problem.

Follow the top radiator hose to the motor. Unbolt the fitting the thermostat is under there seal and replace.

main bearing cap bolts: tighten them in three steps, in sequence, to 67-74 ft. lbs. (90-100 Nm).

rods: Lubricate the threads with new engine oil and install the nuts, using the following procedure:

1. Tighten the nuts to 10-12 ft. lbs. (14-16 Nm).
2. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the nuts an additional 60-65°. If a torque angle meter is not available, tighten the nuts to 28-33 ft. lbs. (38-44 Nm).

Either your alternator is bad or you have a short.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5925550-dead_battery_troubleshooting . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

it is plug and play.... just a twist gets it out

go here and the Quest Team will guide you.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

THAT CALLED COOLANT BYPASS HEATER PIPES.

Touchy situation. Without a machine it's tough. If your system was EMPTY, then you need to add up to what your A/C sticker says.It should be located on radiator support. Fully charged system should read around 35 degrees. Too much freon will cause one to run high pressures also.

4 quarts unless you do a filter change which needs 5 quarts.

please see an auto repair shop fast ! you probably got a broken fuel line in the engine compartment and if it leaks on the exhaust manifold, a fire can result

YOU HAVE AN AIR LOCK IN SYSTEM IF YOU HAVE A BLEEDER ON TOP OF THERMOSTAT HOUSING BLEED IT THEN TURN ON HEATER TILL ITS HOT

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Section 03-06: Starting System 1996 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Starter Motor WARNING: WHEN SERVICING THE STARTER MOTOR OR PERFORMING OTHER UNDERHOOD WORK IN THE VICINITY OF THE STARTER MOTOR, BE AWARE THAT THE HEAVY GAUGE BATTERY INPUT LEAD AT THE STARTER SOLENOID IS "ELECTRICALLY HOT" AT ALL TIMES. A PROTECTIVE BOOT IS PROVIDED OVER THIS TERMINAL ON ALL VEHICLE LINES AND MUST BE REPLACED AFTER SERVICING. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE BEFORE SERVICING THE STARTER MOTOR.
Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the engine air cleaner (ACL) (9600). Refer to Section 03-12 for the removal and installation procedure.
   

1. Slide back the protective boot and remove the nut securing the battery positive cable on the B-terminal of the starter solenoid (11390).
   

1. Remove the battery positive cable from the B-terminal.
   

1. Disconnect the S-terminal electrical connector.
   

1. Remove the two starter motor bolts.
   

1. Remove the starter motor (11002) from the vehicle.
   
   

check catylitic converters possibly plugged when they are you will have no power plus if you force drive it in this condition it will ruin a lot of other parts firstly the plugs and plug wires will be shot possibly coils or coil packs, and if really forced it will back exhaust gas all they way through the air cleaner putting soot on the maf sensor causing it to need cleaned, other vacuum components off the intake can be ruined to but rare. Hope this leads you in the right direction

1.make sure the motor is held up by a bar that run across the car
2.take the steering arms off of the spindle
3.drop the sub frame

you need to solder front circuit board. I have posted info on this site if you search.

also go here

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

I also repair for $25 (plus shipping) and your old control head if you can not solder yourself.

[email protected]

This sounds like a transmission problem. I am haveing a simular problem. Shifts to drive, but is slow to catch and if you apply gas before engage it lurches forward. I am having the transmission replaced with a used one with less miles.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-causes-cylinder-head-cracking.htm

couldn't have said it any better myself