1989 Nissan Hardbody King - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

its at the rear of the fuel rail has a small vacuum hose goig to it ? suggest going t oadvance.com and type in your year make and model and "fuel pressure reg" it will show you a picture of it might help?

Give it a tune up,change air and oil filter and oil.Put preimium gas in the tank. And change fuel filter.

check grounds to body from engine

CV joint or "U" joint there is a difference and most rear drive shafts use "U" joint the center bearing is held on by the flange of the "U" joint and most come with the rubber mount and bracket as an assembly

Timing or a balance issue. Make sure the harmonic balancer it tight to the crank. Also make sure the clutch and pressure plate are tight.

I found this in my database. I hope it is correct. You need to double check this, but, it's all I could find.

with a coat hanger, bent and fed through the door handle opening, feeling for the right spot and pull upwards, as long as the doors aren't locked. if locked, same idea feeding the coat hangar between the window and door body, and feel until you see movement of the door lock knob inside and pull up or push down to unlock.

go in the other side door and open it from the inside remove the door trim and replace the broken handle

Use the other door.

Hi Randy,you have fusible links on your positive side of battery,check all wiring for burnt or swollen wires,I H have a 85 nissan,just replaced mine awile back,it's a dealer part,22.00,here's a guide to them.Here are mine.

do a compression test on the motor.

Here's a link to your firing order,on the distributor has where wires go,you have 2 coils.

place the timing mark on the crank pulley at the correct ignition timing mark (10 degrees advanced). Place in the distributor so that the rotor button points to no1 cylinder in the cap. when fitted in properly turn the distributor so that the points are just opening. ( you can get this by turning on the ignition and when you see the points spark or hear a spark click then lock the distributor up at that point . Use a timing light for final set. If it wont start you got it on 180 degrees out then just move the HT wires around 180 degrees. If you have a transistorized ignition then when the point of the cam star is directly opposite the magnet point that is the same as the points.

In long method firing order 1-3-4-2 nissan td27 engine how many degree did you turn the crankshaft pulley?

check valves, ajust if needed tight intake valves or burnt intake valve can couse that

if you havent figured it out replace the o ring on the bottom of the injector mine had the same problem and thats what fixed it

HelloThe engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPEDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

Well I know the blinkers won't fit from 90-97 cuz they are more wider and other than that you change anything from 86-97

If the sticker is still under the hood it has the answer on it.
I just did some work on an 87 Z24i,
Find the notch on the crank shaft pully and mark it with some bright paint.
Start and warm the engine so it is at operating temp.
Loosen the hold down bolt for the distributor (10mm)
Hook a timing light to the #1 intake side wire. (the cap also should have "I1" on it.)
hold the timing light so it shines on the pointed and the crank pully and turn the distributor until the marks are aligned where they should be. (the 87 California specs is 10 degrees).
Tighten the bolt and its set.

The distributor only has so much movement due to the slotted hole for the hold down bolt.
If it does not reach the timing specs it may be due to timing chain stretch. The cam gear has three holes in it to compensate for this. That is a little more work to do but if needed just come back to this and I can help you.

I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine for a while, but then they fail to release after a period of driving. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the vehicle will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving your Nissan until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your truck has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake (more at the back, to compensate for all the fluid in the extended brake lines), ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.