20 Most Recent 1991 Mercedes-Benz 190 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

What gear box? engine, tramsmssion or rear end? Anyone of which will need whatever seal that is leaking replaced and need to be topped off. Engine oil filled in engine compartment, transmission fluid in the engine compartment with the red/orange retainer top, and rear end square plus need pulled to be drained then refilled.

The 190 is not a 124 body style. There may be an engine issue if its too loud. With the hood pad in good condition and oil pad pan in good condition with no holes in the exhaust it should be pretty quiet.

Go to benzworld.org for more specific help if needed.

Fuel pumps running? Replace coil? cap and rotor? Plugs? wires? OVP? if you dont know hwta these are hop on over to benzworld.org and get alot more sppecific help with your benz.

Thta is an illegal practice, That is why there are retainers on the unit to keep it from being tampered with.

10/40 semi synthetic,change every 10k.

It seems like a big task but you have to drop the headliner. Go to benzworld.org and peachparts.com for some better how to guides and resources.

Plan on at least $1500.00

The ABS system on Mercedes ( or for any car) is an important safety feature. On many Mercedes the ABS module is associated with the Over Voltage Circuitry (OVC) module whose function is closely integrated with the Engine Control Unit (ECU) electronics; this in turn governs the timing and injectors. For instance if I remove the 10amp fuse from my OVC unit, effectively disabling it, I get an ABS warning light and the car runs very unevenly when idling. If I drive the car with this fuse out I have no ABS and when I put the brakes on to slow to a stop the engine will often cut out. Note also that there if the ABS function is not perfect there is the real risk that once triggered the ABS will not disengage from the brakes. I think that trying to put a carburettor engine unit into a body that previously had an injected unit in it will be a very difficult job. Much better would be to find the correct engine type and keep as original as possible. You risk not having a fully operational ABS braking system and this is just too risky from a safety stand point

If it wont turn over try the neutral safety switch, if it wont start in neutral either the switch most likely needs to be replaced.

Try twisting the dimmer knob. If not fuse on back of gage cluster.

Could be the idler pully as they should be replaced with the belt.

Fuel distrbutor could be going bad, also weak spark could be an issue. Should do a real tune up before trying to diagnose. Also duty cycle adjustment, but dont mess with that until you do a tune up.

under the hood, under the wiper mechanism.

sounds like you may have sucked up some trash from your tank you can try several things a can of gas treatment a minor tune up which is changing the plugs and fuel filter you can also try a can of marvel mystery oil pour this in the fuel tank as you would gas treatment if none of this works then you can try a idle speed control sensor or a accelerator pump. hope this gives you some place to start.

check the fuse, look in owners manual for location

the winshield wiper water resevoir has a level indicator in the lower portion on the plastic container, and if the fluid is below the sensor turns on the light on the dash. Solution: keep the resevior filled about the sensor, and light will stay out.

im guessing by the sounds of your discription that its a wheel bearing, and that would make the rimbling noice , ive had one go on me before and that is what it sounds like

Have the car's charging system checked. Then consider taking your car into an autoelectric shop where they have the diagnostic equipment to isolate your problem. It may be a bad ground somewhere, for example, which you would have a difficult time finding without the proper equipment. Regards, Joe