there are a few youtube videos showing how to remove the manifold sorry unable to paste a link for some unknown reason but just search '' remove intake manifold 00 2,2 '''
SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAY HAVE SOME AFTER MARKET THINGS HOOKED UP ON YOUR VEHICLE are you sure there is 5 wires off the starter or the battery i have never seen 5 wires off the starter thats a direct short out
sounds like it may be the pin for the shifter came out or it is loose, or possibly the cable or rod came loose or broken. take the covers off the steering wheel lower part plastics to the shift and have a look to see what happened. do not remove any thing that is electric with out disconnecting the batt
lift your car and set it on large blocks so the tires will not touch the ground. be extra careful that the vehicle does not fall off blocks or touch the ground during testing. have someone accelerate your engine slowly while you listen for the rubbing sound location.
You need to get a rebuilt instrument cluster. Do a search for speedometer rebuilders online. They run about $175. Get a cooling system pressure test to find out where the coolant is going.
Did you have the head checked, they have been known to break inside the runners . I always used a vacuum fill system when working on these, jack up the pass front corner when doing a coolant refill, that should eliminate an air lock If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541
You can buy the valve and cap at any professional auto parts store like NAPA. The bigger question is how you're going to replace it if the system is filled with refrigerant. Your best bet is to find a shop that has the special tool that can replace a valve core without having to evacuate the system. That'll cost less than removing all the refrigerant and refilling.
Inspect the wires make sure they are connected properly on both ends and the wire casings are not damaned, cracked or melted. If they were put on the wrong plugs that should trigger a ses light but worth checking. make sure all the vacuum lines are connected andnot cracked. with the vehicle running use a spray bottle and spray aroung the vacuum hoses for wear (cracking) and the bottom of the throttle body to see if the vehicle bogs down, if so you need a throttle body gasket. You just need to check a few things to check.
That's not the symptom of a bad TPS. Bad TPS causes hesitation in the same spot as you accelerate. Slamming into gear is a pressure issue and the GM uses input from the MAF sensor to determine transmission pressure. I'd start by cleaning the MAF sensor or testing it to see what it's reading.
Stop Lamp Circuit Description
The STOP HAZ fuse in the IP junction block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to the center mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) and both left and right stop lamp assemblies. The left stop lamp is grounded at G304 and the right stop lamp is grounded at G304.
Check the ground ! Testing an not guessing is the way to find the problem . Do you know how to test automotive electrical systems an circuits using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? How to use an read a wiring diagram to pin point testing areas in a wiring harness ?
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsHow to Use Multimeter to Troubleshoot Common ProblemsMastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
Stop Lamps Inoperative
Step
Action
Yes
No
2
Inspect the 20 Amp STOP HAZ fuse.
Is the STOP HAZ fuse open?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Use a test lamp in order to backprobe connector C1 of the brake switch connector between terminal A and ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp light?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 5
4
With the brake switch closed, Test for positive battery voltage at terminal B of connector C1. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is voltage present?
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 7
5
Repair the open or short to ground in the Fuse Output-Battery between the fuse block and the brake switch. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
YES - System OK
--
6
Use a test lamp in order to backprobe the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly connector C2 terminal A and ground.
Depress the brake pedal.
Does the test lamp light?
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 9
7
Inspect the adjustment of the brake switch. If the adjustment is correct, replace the brake switch.
Is the repair complete?
YES - System OK
--
8
Replace the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly.
Is the repair complete?
System OK
--
9
Repair the open in Stop Lamp Switch Output between the brake switch and the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
System OK
--
10
With brake switch open test terminal A of the brake switch for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 12
11
Repair short to ground in Fuse Output-Battery Circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK
--
12
Test the Stop Lamp Switch Output Circuit for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
YES - Go to Step 13
NO - Go to Step 14
13
Repair short to ground in the Stop Lamp Switch Output Circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK
--
14
Test terminals F,G,B and C on the Hazard Warning Switch for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
Go to Step 15
--
15
Repair short to ground in suspect CKT. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK
--
You need to hook up a scanner and see what is going on, any fault codes and such. Check fuel pressure, check the fuel is being injected, check to make sure the camshaft belt (if it has one of course)is turning and so on.
It could be almost anything - immobiliser, engine management, broken wire somewhere, a relay...
No sign of life from the dash probably indicates it isn't the immobiliser but take nothing for granted. The problem should be approached diagnostically rather than throwing parts at the car. A wiring diagram and a test lamp or voltmeter to follow the circuitry until the fault is found.