20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The thermostat is usually located in the upper radiator hose. Make sure that you have a cold engine before attempting to replace the thermostat otherwise you could injure yourself with hot fluid. The small housing that holds the thermostat is held on with two bolts. Remove the two bolts and separate from the engine. When you buy the new thermostat at the auto parts store, follow the temperature recommendation of the manufacturer. I found out the hard way that if you change the temperature, you may get adequate performance, but you may suffer worse mileage. This is because of the fact that the faster that an engine warms to operating temperature, the more efficiently that the engine will run. Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the two bolts when you re-install the thermostat. Ask the person at the parts counter for the recommended foot pound that one is to tighten the bolts to. Be sure to use a new gasket with permatex on the housing that holds the thermostat.

firstly check if you have a pressure sensor in the fuel manifold . If you have then it controls power to the ECM to the pump relay to the pump and switches the pump off when fuel pressure in the manifold is reached . Also check for a fuel emergency shut off switch that you may have to reset

There are 4 requirements: fuel, air, compression, spark. You'll need to provide more information. Here's a good starting point: http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/

Hi Friend:

Your Timing Chain Tensioner is located in the Lower Front of your engine.

#1) you'll have to disconnect your negative Battery cable.

#2) Remove the Top Engine cover to give you better access to the Front of Engine.

#3) Then you'll need to remove your alternator and with wiring attached put it off to the Side you might have to tie it with a wire to secure it.

#4) then you'll need to remove your Power Steering Leave the Lines on it and Put it to the sideas well , Tie off if necessary.

#5) then Jack up the front of your car,make sure you Put Good Stands under the car to keep it secure.while you work under it.

#6) then remove the TWO front Oil Pan Bolts Only the very 2-Front ones.

#7) Then directly above the Oil pan front of the Engine you'll see your Crank Shaft Pulley Remove it, You will need a Puller to Remove it.then the Timing Chain Cover, There are Several bolts Holding it on to the front of the Engine.

#8) Remove ALL the Bolts on Timing over, then Take cover Off,It could be a Little Stubborn ,if All bolts are out for sure, Take a Small plastic mallet and Tap the Cover Easily,until it comes off.

#9) Now before you remove anything else there is a Timing Mark on the Cam Shaft and one on the Crank Shaft,NOTE: BESURE you line them marks up,The Cam Shaft Mark should be pointing Straight Down--And the Crankshaft Mark needs to be Pointing Straight up.and Lined up with the Top Timing Mark.If the are Not

NOTE: Rotate the Engine by Hand Turning the Sprockets until they are LINED Up.

Then Take off the Top Cam Shaft Mounting Bolts,then Pull Sproket and timing Chain at the Same Time.

Then Loosen the Chain Tensioner Bolt with out taking it ALL the Way OUT. then remove your Chain Tensioner.

If your this far i Recommend that you Replace The Timing Chain,Cam Sproket and Crankshaft Sproket as well.

If not the Install your new Chain Tensioner,And Just Simply Reverse the Un-Install Directions.To Put All back Together.

Do Replace the Timing Cover Seal. Using Proper Seal Remover and Installer.

Also before you put your Timing cover back on CLEAN the Surfaces of the Engine and the Cover.And Use a Gasket Sealer and Mount to Block ==Lining Up ALL your Timing Cover Bolt Holes. Let it set a Short time a Few Minutes at Least. To prevent Slipping when installing your Timing Case Cover.

1- Last Thing Torque your Timing Chain Tensioner at 89 Inch Pounds.Which rewuires a Torque Wrench.

And Torque ALL your Timing Cover Bolts at 97 Inch Pounds.Do NOT Over Tighten You'll Strip them.

MAKE Sure the Timing Marks are Still lined up.

This will get your Timing Chain Tensioner Replaced. Thanks for using FixYa From: d_hubbs

Do you know for a fact there are no air pockets in the cooling system ?

Check and see if you can rotate the engine, it will be best to attempt this after removing the spark plugs. If the engine turns then attempt to crank it once again. If it does not turn then you have a locked up engine.

May Sound stupid but I would check for gravel.

ok try this trick.. look at the thermostat..it has a spring on one side and an arch thing on the other side..and a wide flange all the way around it..at a 90* angle to the arch as close to the inside edge of that flange drill 2 tiny 1/8 holes on each side of that arch.. we call these weep holes..they allow the antifreeze to run thru the thermostat along with any trapped air in the system ..this allows minor flow while allowing the engine to reach operating temps a bit slower..and any trapped or pumped in pressure will be allowed past the thermostat and on to the release at the radiator cap..now.. once reinstalled with the modified thermostat.. let run for about 30 minutes and without opening the system..feel the upper hose for excess pressure on the system..if its still overheating and blowing pressure, antifreese out..you have a blown gasket/cracked casting somewhere..

time tu du some regular maintenance--the squeal probly a worn belt--affectin the alternator -hissing sounds like a vacuum leak--chec all hoses--also inspect ignition wires and distributer--buy a haynes repair book in a partsplace-detailed for the homemech

you need to find the fuel pressure release around the fuel rail press the little tab when the car dies. If there is no fuel coming out from that point, your fuel pump is going.

run fault codes to find the faulty sensors

it goes on the top of the starter into the starter solenoid- Denny

check altenater

Check the fuse for the injectors. If you have a test light, check for power to the injectors with key on. Pull off one injector connector to check for power. 2 wires to each injector-one is the power wire and powered anytime key is on. The other is the ground wire going into the computer, where it is internally grounded for a split second to pulse the injector-fuel is then sprayed out. If power circuit is good, test the ground circuit: clip a test light lead to the POSITIVE POST of battery. Insert tester probe into the ground terminal of injector-the one that has no power with key on. Now have someone crank the engine over: test light should be blinking. If both tests work-steady power to injectors with key on, and blinking tester on ground terminal with engine cranking, then the injector drive circuit and the ground circuit is working. Let me know what you find. Good luck.