20 Most Recent 1992 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 8 Questions & Answers

OK, what you just said is that you checked and/or replaced items in the control system. Now what you need to do is find where the main power that the relay gets power from to transfer to the fan.(and a/c.) Likely a 30amp fuse or fusible link. I don't have that diagram but if you check the circuit that goes to the relay, it will be the heaviest wire going to it. (control system is low draw, actual power needs heavier wire to carry actual load)
If I read correctly, the relay is operating but no power is going to fan or a/c. If relay is not operating, then it could be a problem with the wiring going to the computer, or the computer itself, but computer problem is not very common.

i think the fan is supposed to do that and the a c might have to much or too little pressure

bang the starter with a hammer, the solenoid may be sticking, if it works get a new starter, if it doesn't check the connections at the starter

its pretty easy. it only has 4 bolts. 2 that are in front 1 in front of the driver and the second in the front of the passenger, if you move the sun blocker you will see a hole. loosen those because they dont come off. the other 2 are behind the driver and the passenger which do come off entirely. you will need the corvette tool to remove all of them or maybe just an allen key will do.

good luck

Is the inlet and outlet heater hoses hot and if so you have a seperate acuator for your hot/cold door.Check for vacuum there if you have vacuum to the acuator then it must be a faulty acuator or jambed door.

It's normal for an old car to have such heat fluctuations, and it's normal to get warmer in traffic, it can't absorb cold air like in a cruise. You say it never overheats. It's ok, don't worry.

Should be for the coolant temp sensor for the dash!

This happened to me last week. So I got a friend and together we squeezed our fingers inbetween the hood and forced it open a little bit then I located the latch and opened the hood all the way up, then generously sprayed lube on the rusted latch and coil. Once a month I will lube this area to prevent this in the future.

you need to change the prom id in the computer

check the fuel pump! Use some starter spary in the intake if it starts then you have a fuel delivery problem.

If your gear set is worn, replace the differential with one from a scrapyard.
It is very expensive and an exacting science to set new gears up. if noise is from either carrier side bearing it is possible to replace them but generally if there is debris inside the unit the pinion bearings will be affected as well, requiring re-setting of gears. Depending upon what you ask from your vehicle, this is a good opportunity to change ratios. If you don't need all the bottom end performance, you could opt for a 3.23 ratio. If you are looking for more "off the line" power then go to 4.11's. Don't forget though that anything but the exact match to yours will require a speedometer drive gear change .You cannot stop the noise without making a repair.

No...Inside the bore of the unit (where the air flows through), you will find two thin wires. In operation, those wires become hot changing their electrical resistance ...when dirt accumulates on them it serves as insulation. (they depend on air flow cooling them off to obtain a reading...more flow = more cooling and therefore different resistance value) To clean them use a Q-tip and carb cleaner and carefully wipe off any dirt. If cleaning does not help, there are tests you can do to check it (they can actually fail, aside from just becoming fouled.)

I am not sure about the 1992 since they have newer dashboard than my 86.

Anyway, I got that same intermittent issue on mine, sometime the battery was drawn in the morning sometime not, very frustrating, until i noticed that the interior light sometime was not going out as it should after 30 seconds when leaving the car in the evening.

I eventually found the timer module after removing the upper dash pad, on the passenger side. The module was just partially unplugged. Put it back in and never got problem anymore (was 6 years ago).

The ECM had detected and issue with the engine management system. Your going to have to get it scanned to retrieve the DTC codes to address the issue. You can go to Auto Zone since they scan free of charge or you can retrieve the code's your self. Here is a link that should help you retrieve the codes and help you understand what the issue's are so you can address them to get your car running 100%. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your car running 100% again. http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/

Have u checked for blown fuses

clean throttle and change air filter

Emission Components - usually

could be GMs pass-lock not letting it start

you can try a seal kit but most likely need to replace injector

This could be caused by a couple of different things. First off, when you depress the switch for the driver side window do you hear any kind of noise at all? If you are hearing a noise but it sounds like it's moving very easy, it could be the gear on the motor or the window is off track. If you are not hearing any noise at all, it may be the motor is out and will need to be replaced. These can be purchased from most auto parts store or your local chevrolet dealer parts department. The switch panel typically is held on by screws coming from underneath. You will most likely need to remove the door panel and unscrew the switch panel from the door panel once the door panel is removed from the door. While you have the panel off, you can look inside the door and make sure the motor is plugged in and also test to see if the motor is coming on when the button is depressed or if it is binded up you can hear that also.