1991 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Lights are burnt out or the circuit leading to the lights are burnt. Get your car inspected at a car shop and just use your hands as signals on the way there.

The sock filter on the bottom of the pump is bad and it burned up the pump. You will need to drop the gas tank and replace the pump.

under ur air filter

sounds like the brake switch is sticking. its on top of brake pedal arm. when applying brakes the pedal makes contact with the switch and turns on brake lights. if the switch sticks or its out of adjustment brake lights will stay on.

Did you make sure all your wire harnesses are all connected,if so start looking for a bad ground

The easiest place to begin diagnosis on the fuel pump circuit is at the relay.GM usually has this in the underhood fuse/relay center.You can get the pin diagram for the relay by looking at the pin numbers on the bottom of the relay and the diagram on the side of the relay housing.Use this to make sure you have 12 volts coming in,continuity to the feeds to the relay coil,and continuity to the pump.The PCM will turn the relay on for 2 seconds when the key is turned to "run"(I can't remember if this is a switched 12v or ground).You might try a short cut-there are several relays that are identical.Mark the fuel pump relay to avoid mix-up,and swap it with one of the others(I like to use the A/C compressor relay).This will tell you if the relay is bad(a likely possibility,especially since you already replaced the pump)

if it does not need a tuneup, then I would say to check the coolant tempurature sensor. if bad it will result in. poor cold idle, stalling, rich mixture and ******** timing, slow idle speed, cold hesitation, stumble, poor fuel milage. good-day! if need be. change plugs and wires first ! this could also be your problem.

The governor gear may have stripped,it's plactic. Just in front of the tailshaft there is a round cover about 4 inches around,some have a wire clip over the cover.Pop the cover off,(might lose about 1/2 cup of fluid)Pull the governor out (should be very easy)If the plastic gear on the end is "apple cored" or at all damaged ,it will keep the ****** in low.As will having no vacuum to the modulator valve.

push button type floor shift type high range2wd does transfercase motor make noise did you burn transfercase clutches out? front not engaging but low range for rear help us help u

Air in system

air blows out only defrost possible cause could be faulty ac and heater mode switch or broken vacuum line to ac and heater vacuum actuator.you have to remove ac and heater control switch to check it out.

THE WIRE YOUR LOOKING FOR IS PURPLE

The firewall is that whole area that is under the hood bellow the winshield and between the fenders. Its right behind the motor, you can't miss it. It seperates the engine compartment from the inside of the cab.

Chic Mechanic, I like that. Take and smear the grease from your fingers on your face like war paint and let out a Zenna yell.

The IAC could have some carbon build up on it, or not working properly. Unplug it and see if the motor just dies. You can also remove it and clean any carbon off. Also carbon can build up on the EGR and keep it open a little bit. And check your ignition timing. If you have an under hood label it should give instuctions and specs. It should tell you there is a tan (or tan with black stripe) single wire that needs to be unplugged. I don't recall the exact location but it will be in the large computer harness (usually sticking out of the loom) under the hood where it goes into the truck or under the dash near the ECM.

Hello, Your Code 32 means that an O2 circuit is reading high. Its position is Bank1 spot1. The Code 33 would go to a vehicle with a turbo or supercharger. Code 33 concerns the Turbo bypass circuit, if so equipped.

You can continue to get free scans at Autozone, Advance or Oreilys. The O2 sensor should be replaced or check the wiring for a grounded wire to the O2 sensor.

If it is located on the transmission it should just unscrew. Be prepared if fuild leaks out when removed.

Hello: Remove the distributor cap. Check the rotor, see if there is a black spot where the metal piece makes contact with the carbon stick out tha makes contact with the coil. Did you replace that piece when you replaced the coil, it should have come with the new coil? Also did you reinstall the ground strap that was under the coil and went to the stick-out that the black connector plugs into the cap?

Is it TRYING to go up but can't? You could have high resistance in the ground circuit to the passenger switch. It takes a LOT less power to move the window down than it does to make it go up. There mak be good enough ground to the switch to make it go down, bt not up.

Since it works from the driver's door, this pretty much eliminates the B+ circits and the grounds for the driver's switch. Since the passenger switch itself has been replaced twice, I would think that eliminates the switch itself as the cause. The ground circuit to the passenger switch is the only thing left.

This theory can be easilly verified by running a jumper from Pin "J" BLACK wire at the passenger switch t the battery negative post. If the window now goes up and down from the passenger switch, the ground circuit needs to be repaired.

if the light is ok, then there might be a fuse in the fuse box. I have a malibu and there is a fuse for each headlight. there could be on yours also!