Top 20 1990 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers

Sometimes you can straighten the little rod to have it close better using a pliers

You need to clean the throttle plate.

Hi. Sorry to hear about the problem you are facing. Let me try to help you out here. Quite likely there may be an issue with the ECM. The fuel module has a tendency to override the ECM timer. The solution could lie at the test connector, you could try grounding the G contact here and then remove the G contact. Then turn on the ignition switch. This might work. If not, then you might have to replace the fuel pump and then for just a few seconds, you need to ground the G terminal. This could get the fuel pump working. Then remove the ground and you might be able to start the engine. This article might also be pretty helpful to you in fixing the problem... https://www.2carpros.com/questions/chevrolet-truck-1993-chevy-truck-no-fuel-to-tbi Hope this works. Best wishes.

Your stepper motors are going bad

try this take out the switch smack the back of it to knock it out

you have stumbled on the problem when you reduced the fuel flow / pressure when it fired with the fuel line off yes it has good cone shape at the injectors but excessive fuel so it is in effect flooding

I believe the voltage regulator is an integral part of this generator, and it is probably causing the problem. I would try replacing the generator.

dirty fuel

These are very sensitive to the adjustment of the throttle position cable that goes from the carb linkage, or throttle position linkage. Make sure that is set correctly. If it is set correctly and it still doesn't work correctly take it to a good transmission shop on the 700R4. Had to have mine done 4 times and it still isn't totally right. Mine is behind a strong Mark IV big block.

This may sound like a silly answer, but, how often did you use your parking brake previously? Parking brake cables tend to rust inside the sheath if they are not used very often. When you apply the parking brake, you use a fair amount of physical force to engage the park brake. If you do not use your parking brake very often, the inside of the cable may be rusted enough that when you release the park brake, the cable will not release (cable will not slide inside the sheath), as there is only the pressure of the brake shoe return springs disengage the park brake.

I'd probably remove intake manifold, then get the piece out, so you don't have to worry about junk getting into the engine. If that is a pipe thread in the manifold, then it should be easy. You may have to dress up the threads. They have fittings that have a pipe thread on one end and a hose fitting on it, then use heater hose from one fitting to the next. In the olds days the didn't have that metal tubing, they just had heater hoses. In the past, I have removed stuck fitting from aluminum head. I got it out but I tore up the threads, I don't remember how I fixed it, too many years ago. Of course I can't see anything from here. Use your best judgement.

Battery. New doesn't always mean good. Could have set on shelf. Have AutoZone or advance check it.

there is a unit called a fuel pressure regulator that controls the FP operation when the pressure is low it starts the pump and when the pressure reaches a preset value it switches the pump off AH-- I hear you say the pump works when it has direct 12 volts true but the engine runs on quick start but not from fuel supplied that is probably because the pressure switch is not working and there is no pressure for the injectors IF you were to bring it to my shop , that is where I would start looking for the problem and I would recommend changing that pressure switch

very commendable to expand your mechanical knowledge by taking on something you would normally steer clear of how to fix is not the problem but what to fix when a ratio slips that indicates insufficient pressure to apply the clutch or band--- problem servo/ solenoid for that section dragging indicates that the pressure is not being release fully or trying to engage 2 ratios --again servo / solenoid problems a small part installed the incorrect way around, a spring on the wrong side bad wiring , faulty TCm There are very good automatic repair manuals available that have photos of how and where parts are fitted that I would suggest to you as video , while good, will not have the full details to trouble shoot what you lack now but will pick up very quickly are the little "tricks of the trade" and you can get them by talking to transmission repair shops , reading repair manuals and experience don't give as it is repairable , just have patience

Use a vacuum bleeder.

Could be several things at the same time or it could be just one thing. It could be the beginning of a fuel pump failure. I personally would check all that comes to my mind such as: (Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) I would replace the TPS without question simply considering the age of the vehicle. I would also clean out the Throttle Body unit to remove excess carbon buildup that could hinder movement of the flap inside the throttle body. I would tap on my EGR Valve (Electronic Gas Re-circulator(EGR Valve); You can tap on this with the handle of a screwdriver with the car started and if anything is stuck in there it may loosen a bit but this fix is not permanent unless you either remove it and clean it out, or you replace EGR Valve

If this is still TBI the issue is the air in flow valve located on the passenger side of the Throttle body. Un plug it and unscrew it . I believe it is a 7/8 wrench. Clean it with carb. cleaner and spay out the TBI and in the hole where this goes. Re install and se how it runs. Other wise its a vacuum leak. If you have a fuel injected model it may be lose of fuel pressure.

No. Vacuum is only present when purge valve operates, and this happens only under certain operating conditions to purge fumes from canister.

FUEL PRESSURE MUST BE IN THE 35-45 LB RANGE TO OPERATE PROPERLY. CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE AND THEN FUEL QUANTITY BEING DELIVERED. YOU MAY HAVE A FAULTY FUEL PUMP WHICH IS VERY COMMON

you may have a temp sending unit for the temp gage, one wire and then a separate cts sensor that sends info to the computer, two wires. With the one wire unit, take the wire loose, key on, see if any voltage on the wire, use digital multimeter. If no voltage, it could be wiring circuit or gage itself.