20 Most Recent 1990 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi there. Depending on the gauge you have but it may be if you have a electric gauge then you have a wire touching to earth or a bad connection on the gauge, but if you have a solid pipe type then you could have a oil pressure problem ,or a faulty gauge . Also check the oil type/ you should be running about 30W 40 or 50. But the sender unit if electric will be screwed into the block.

1989 thru 1998 I believe! good luck tape measures never lie! Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeff_24365d731679262d

Is the \'Service Engine Soon\' light on? Only from what you described, it sounds like the engine\'s running in \'open loop\' (fast idle, cold) okay, then when it\'s supposed to go into \'closed loop\', you have a malfunction. Checking the trouble codes will pinpoint the problem; your truck is pre-\'95 so it\'s the older OBD-I and you could get the trouble codes by grounding the proper terminal in the ALDL, counting the blinks of the SES light and using it to determine what electronic control device is malfunctioning. If no SES light/trouble codes and since you ran out of gas (?), it might be time to replace the fuel filter and possibly check the fuel pressure and/or fuel pump.

the fuel sender unit is for the gauge to read quantity in tank and is usually incorperated in the pump unit ,when it stalls does it start straight away again ?its more likely to be related to air/fuel , spark ,vacuum at the engine so i'd do a few basic checks there ie air intake pipe not collapsing , air filter ,plugs , vacuum pipes etc are in good condition , also fuel pump relay may be breaking down , as you see there are a few things it could be , the OBD may give you a clue so have that read but pre1996 vehicles this was pretty basic and would need a mechanic with the right reader to do this or log onto a chevvy forum as these places are full of knowledge specific to chevvy, good luck

I suspect that the oil pump is not producing sufficient pressure to do the job. have a pressure test done to check this. It is possible when reassembling the unit that there is a leak in the system (missing-damaged seals ,gaskets ) that is allowing oil to squirt of a join (loose bolts). Recheck the band and clutch pack adjustment now that it has been run.

depending how high a lift 2"is a couple of hundred and wont affect ride or drivetrain 3" and up u start messing with alignment,steering ,driveshafts,cv axles brake lines etc 4" and above lift will be above $3,000 if done correctly because of all the changes that need to be done some kits like rough country sell 7" for $1399 -skyjacker 6"--$1499===fabtech 4" buget w/sh

When I get questions on checking sensors I want to know why you need this information. Anyway, the only way to check the Coolant Temperature Sensor is with a diagnostic computer or a decent code reader that give data.

The speedometer is cable operated. A small cable housed in a sheath, that comes from near the rear of the transmission. It is spun around in the sheath by a small gear attached to the final drive on the transmission. Most likely the cable broke somewhere. You pull the housing off, straight out of the transmission, after removing a small bolt or screw that holds a retainer to the housing on the trans. case. If you twirl the gear on the end of the cable around, it should make the speedo needle wiggle a little. If the needle doesn't move, the cable is broken. Get one from salvage-cheaper. To remove the cable from back of the instrument cluster, and attached to the center of the speedometer gauge, is a big pain for a beginner, but it is doable. Try to avoid having to pull the instrument cluster out-that's an even bigger project. If you can get your hand up under the dash, and follow the cable to the speedo point, it's a plastic connector with a tang. You press the tang with your fingers, hard as you can, and pulling back on the cable, it should release the cable end when the tang is pressed. Its been on there a long time, you may have to work at it a bit, just keep after it, do not cuss like me, it won't help! Or maybe ...You will see the end of the cable when you get it out: the cable is welded to a small square rod that fits into the speedometer housing. Replacing it is a cinch, after you have gone through all the steps to remove it.

Check vacume hoses for leaks or EGR stuck open or PVC valve.If you can rev engine and black smoke comes out, check for leaking injectors

On GM products built before 1996 you can disconnect the battery to clear trouble codes.

Right side under dash, above where the passengers feet are.

the pin may be locked in because of torque wind up from driving on hard surface in 4wd . Check power/ vacuum to actuator as well. Run on grass / mud/gravel/ ice surface as you try to unlock 4wd to allow the torque wind up to disappear.

Code 44 is for the O2 sensor staying in lean range for too long. It could be the sensor or a fuel problem.

Code 55 is usually a problem with the engine computer itself.