Top 10 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT Questions & Answers

I had the same problem on my 1999 Pontiac GA 3.4 litre. Replaced a bunch of stuff. It just kept pushing the coolant out the overflow once the temp got to 200 + like to drove me nuts. Ended up being that reservoir. If you measure the O.D. of the cap(brand new cap) and the I.D. of the reservoir filler neck there is no way it will seal(even tried to fit a different type cap,no luck). The system has to be able to build pressure or the coolant will boil out at 212. Causing the coolant to be pushed out the reservoir. Why? you say or How? did the filler neck increase in size. I dont know but GM has write ups about this problem. They say sand it with a piece of sandpaper to smooth it. Maybe someone sanded it way to much?? Around $40 bucks and I was on my way. Hope this helps someone.

Your fan seems to be drawing way too much current, common with fan motors of all kinds when they are going bad. It will still blow, but hot wires and blown fuses in the normal circuit indicate you have an excessive load in the circuit. Fan motors create this condition regularly, but are often ignored since they are "still blowing."

Here's a cheap, easy way to test my theory:
Try a new fuse, the proper amperage, but leave the blower motor unplugged at the blower itself. That will tell you in a few rides if the blower was the culprit. (Which it most likely is.) I bet your #20 fuse will stop blowing and no more smoking pink wires! Hope this helps. Remember, blower motors are cheap, traffic tickets and dash fires are not. The blower motor draw is the logical thing wrong with this picture. Good LUCK! TT

sounds like fuel pump quit. It is electric and is in gas tank.
Have someone turn key on while you listen real good at fuel tank area. It shold buzz for 2 seconds & stop. If no buzz, hit bottom of tank with a rubber mallot or something similar. Try to see if pump runs now. If yes, debris getting stcuk or startting to fail.

It looks like this with a connector to it and is on the side of the engine block:


Look right under the radiator hose.

Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.1L engines & 2001-04 3.4L engines




Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2005 3.4L engines



Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

yes

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
   fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
   (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
   
2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
   the top of the brake calipers.
   
3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
   end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
   
4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
   right front.
   
5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
   brake pedal.
   
6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
   return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
   
7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
   bleeder screw and remove the hose.
   
8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
   after bleeding each wheel.
   
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

This should be the firing order diagram for that vehicle and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.

The dash in 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand AM's is known to have issues with "curling" and discoloration. While the only solution to completely fix the issue is to replace the dash, there is another, less professional way to fix it. Start by using a blow dryer to heat up the top of the dash, hold the hairdryer several inches from the dash and move it back and forth until the dash is soft enough to be manipulated. Now, pull the dash up and away from the windshield, and using a strong glue such as "Gorilla glue", glue the underside of the dash. Now push the dash back into place and lodge a hard object between the dash and the windshield. Let the glue dry for at least 16 hours before removing the object used to hold it in place. The dash should no longer looked "curled".

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. If your coolant fans are not working, you need to check your fuse first. Make sure it is not blown and the fuse housing is getting power. You can test the wires on the fan to see if the fan is getting power also. You may have a bad wire or break in the harness. If you have power to the fan after this test, go ahead and change out the fan. You can also run a wire directly to the battery to the fan. If the fan is good, it will come on when the wire touches the battery.